My first-ever sleeper train experience was a 13-hour ride across 467 miles of jungle in Thailand — and it turned out to be a total letdown

Marielle DescalsotaAug 11, 2022, 16:45 IST

My 13-hour sleeper train journey through Thailand.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

I rode on one of the longest train trips in Thailand, Special Express 14, which connects Chiang Mai to Bangkok.
My first-class cabin with two bunk beds cost 2,906 baht, or around $81.

On a reporting trip to Thailand in late July, I traveled on the Special Express 14, a train journey that starts from the northern province of Chiang Mai and ends in the capital city of Bangkok. It was my first-ever overnight train trip.

Railway line from Chiang Mai to Bangkok.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

On a reporting trip to Thailand in late July, I traveled on the Special Express 14, a train journey that starts from the northern province of Chiang Mai and ends in the capital city of Bangkok. It was my first-ever overnight train trip.

The Special Express 14 takes around 13 hours and 16 minutes to reach Bangkok. It traverses nine provinces and 18 train stations.

The train route from Chiang Mai Railway Station to Bangkok Railway Station.Google Maps

I arrived at Chiang Mai Railway Station at 3 p.m., around two hours before departure. I had spent three days in the province for the first leg of my reporting trip to Thailand.

Chiang Mai Railway Station.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

I arrived at Chiang Mai Railway Station at 3 p.m., around two hours before departure. I had spent three days in the province for the first leg of my reporting trip to Thailand.

I booked a first-class cabin with two bunk beds for 2,906 baht, or around $81, on the official Thai Railway website.

VIP first class lounge at Chiang Mai Railway Station.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

Other amenities like the food court was also closed. I had lunch at a local restaurant near the entrance of the train station instead.

Closed food stalls at Chiang Mai Railway Station.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

I had heard from locals that the train didn't serve food on board because of Covid-19 restrictions, so I made my way to the local 7-11. I bought a ready-to-eat meal, chips, drinks, a pack of gum, a bottle of water, and some local desserts.

Some of the food I got from the local 7-11.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

I had heard from locals that the train didn't serve food on board because of Covid-19 restrictions, so I made my way to the local 7-11. I bought a ready-to-eat meal, chips, drinks, a pack of gum, a bottle of water, and some local desserts.

Passengers began boarding at around 4.30 p.m. Tourists occupied most of the first-class cabins, while local students took up many second-class seats. I only saw a handful of people in the third-class sections, which were the only passenger cars that were not air-conditioned.

For my week-long trip to Thailand, I only brought along a small carry-on and a foldable tote.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

Passengers began boarding at around 4.30 p.m. Tourists occupied most of the first-class cabins, while local students took up many second-class seats. I only saw a handful of people in the third-class sections, which were the only passenger cars that were not air-conditioned.

There were 12 first-class cabins, all located in the train's second car.

The corridor along first-class in Special Express 14.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

I'm only 5'1" and the cabin was just big enough for me. There were minimal amenities on board: a convertible leather seat/bed, pillows, and a wash basin.

Me in my cabin for the night.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

There was also an electrical socket to charge my devices and a tiny wash basin.

The amenities inside the cabin.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

The seat could be converted into a double bunk bed. A staff member set up the beds at around 6 p.m., which meant there was even less space in the cabin. I ended up stowing my bags on the upper bunk.

The bed after it's been set up by the staff.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

The seat could be converted into a double bunk bed. A staff member set up the beds at around 6 p.m., which meant there was even less space in the cabin. I ended up stowing my bags on the upper bunk.

Since Chiang Mai goes dark at around 7 p.m., I only had two hours to enjoy the views outside before the sunset. The train ventured into Thailand's wilderness, where I saw an abundance of rice paddy fields.

Rice paddy fields in northern Thailand.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

Since Chiang Mai goes dark at around 7 p.m., I only had two hours to enjoy the views outside before the sunset. The train ventured into Thailand's wilderness, where I saw an abundance of rice paddy fields.

The train journeyed through rural towns in the north of the country, where houses peeked through dense foliage. It was a different side to Thailand, one that many tourists don't get to see.

Homes in the middle of Thailand's jungle.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

The train journeyed through rural towns in the north of the country, where houses peeked through dense foliage. It was a different side to Thailand, one that many tourists don't get to see.

The train also meandered along winding rivers during golden hour — it was a stunning sight. After a brief stop at Nakhon Lamphang, the rest of the trip quickly slipped into darkness.

A river along the rail track.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

The train also meandered along winding rivers during golden hour — it was a stunning sight. After a brief stop at Nakhon Lamphang, the rest of the trip quickly slipped into darkness.

After eating dinner, I made my way to the bathroom at the back of the car to get ready for bed. But the toilets weren't the cleanest — I could smell the stench of urine even before opening the doors.

Toilets on board.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

After eating dinner, I made my way to the bathroom at the back of the car to get ready for bed. But the toilets weren't the cleanest — I could smell the stench of urine even before opening the doors.

I expected the train to stop at stations where there would be vendors selling trinkets and food, like on the Trans-Siberian Railway or even certain Amtrak routes, but many stations remained desolate throughout the night.

A short stop at a province in Thailand.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

I expected the train to stop at stations where there would be vendors selling trinkets and food, like on the Trans-Siberian Railway or even certain Amtrak routes, but many stations remained desolate throughout the night.

As I had spent around 10 hours of the trip in darkness, and half of the time without Wifi, I decided to go to bed. I woke up at around 4.30 a.m. when we were already in Ayutthaya. It was a very different landscape from the countryside, with busy roads and temples located right next to modern buildings.

The view outside at the break of dawn.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

As I had spent around 10 hours of the trip in darkness, and half of the time without Wifi, I decided to go to bed. I woke up at around 4.30 a.m. when we were already in Ayutthaya. It was a very different landscape from the countryside, with busy roads and temples located right next to modern buildings.

After crossing Pathum Thani, the train finally reached the outskirts of Bangkok. Instead of the picturesque cityscape tourists are used to, the train took me past some surprisingly squalid conditions.

The part of Bangkok that's not commonly seen.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

After crossing Pathum Thani, the train finally reached the outskirts of Bangkok. Instead of the picturesque cityscape tourists are used to, the train took me past some surprisingly squalid conditions.

Right before reaching my final stop, Bangkok Railway Station or Hua Lamphong, a staff member put the bunk bed back into a seat again.

Fixing the bunk beds before arrival in Hua Lamphong.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

I finally arrived at Bangkok Railway Station at around 7 a.m. It was noisy and bustling — exactly how I remember one of my favorite cities in the world.

Arrival in Hua Lamphong, or Bangkok Railway Station.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

While the Special Express 14 was certainly memorable, it's not a trip I'd do again. However, that doesn't take away from the fact that it's great for locals looking to travel to the capital city in a cost-effective manner.

People disembarking from the train.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

While the Special Express 14 was certainly memorable, it's not a trip I'd do again. However, that doesn't take away from the fact that it's great for locals looking to travel to the capital city in a cost-effective manner.

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My first-ever sleeper train experience was a 13-hour ride across 467 miles of jungle in Thailand &mdash; and it turned out to be a total letdown

On a reporting trip to Thailand in late July, I traveled on the Special Express 14, a train journey that starts from the northern province of Chiang Mai and ends in the capital city of Bangkok. It was my first-ever overnight train trip.

The Special Express 14 takes around 13 hours and 16 minutes to reach Bangkok. It traverses nine provinces and 18 train stations.

I arrived at Chiang Mai Railway Station at 3 p.m., around two hours before departure. I had spent three days in the province for the first leg of my reporting trip to Thailand.

I booked a first-class cabin with two bunk beds for 2,906 baht, or around $81, on the official Thai Railway website.

Other amenities like the food court was also closed. I had lunch at a local restaurant near the entrance of the train station instead.

I had heard from locals that the train didn't serve food on board because of Covid-19 restrictions, so I made my way to the local 7-11. I bought a ready-to-eat meal, chips, drinks, a pack of gum, a bottle of water, and some local desserts.

Passengers began boarding at around 4.30 p.m. Tourists occupied most of the first-class cabins, while local students took up many second-class seats. I only saw a handful of people in the third-class sections, which were the only passenger cars that were not air-conditioned.

There were 12 first-class cabins, all located in the train's second car.

I'm only 5'1" and the cabin was just big enough for me. There were minimal amenities on board: a convertible leather seat/bed, pillows, and a wash basin.

There was also an electrical socket to charge my devices and a tiny wash basin.

The seat could be converted into a double bunk bed. A staff member set up the beds at around 6 p.m., which meant there was even less space in the cabin. I ended up stowing my bags on the upper bunk.

Since Chiang Mai goes dark at around 7 p.m., I only had two hours to enjoy the views outside before the sunset. The train ventured into Thailand's wilderness, where I saw an abundance of rice paddy fields.

The train journeyed through rural towns in the north of the country, where houses peeked through dense foliage. It was a different side to Thailand, one that many tourists don't get to see.

The train also meandered along winding rivers during golden hour — it was a stunning sight. After a brief stop at Nakhon Lamphang, the rest of the trip quickly slipped into darkness.

After eating dinner, I made my way to the bathroom at the back of the car to get ready for bed. But the toilets weren't the cleanest — I could smell the stench of urine even before opening the doors.

I expected the train to stop at stations where there would be vendors selling trinkets and food, like on the Trans-Siberian Railway or even certain Amtrak routes, but many stations remained desolate throughout the night.

After crossing Pathum Thani, the train finally reached the outskirts of Bangkok. Instead of the picturesque cityscape tourists are used to, the train took me past some surprisingly squalid conditions.

Right before reaching my final stop, Bangkok Railway Station or Hua Lamphong, a staff member put the bunk bed back into a seat again.

I finally arrived at Bangkok Railway Station at around 7 a.m. It was noisy and bustling — exactly how I remember one of my favorite cities in the world.

While the Special Express 14 was certainly memorable, it's not a trip I'd do again. However, that doesn't take away from the fact that it's great for locals looking to travel to the capital city in a cost-effective manner.

My first-ever sleeper train experience was a 13-hour ride across 467 miles of jungle in Thailand — and it turned out to be a total letdown