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  4. Manhattan's oldest surviving residence is said to be haunted. I toured the 18th-century mansion with ghost-hunting equipment and saw things I can't fully explain.

Manhattan's oldest surviving residence is said to be haunted. I toured the 18th-century mansion with ghost-hunting equipment and saw things I can't fully explain.

Talia Lakritz   

Manhattan's oldest surviving residence is said to be haunted. I toured the 18th-century mansion with ghost-hunting equipment and saw things I can't fully explain.
I went on a tour investigating paranormal activity at Morris-Jumel Mansion, Manhattan's oldest residence.Talia Lakritz/Insider ; Talia Lakritz/Insider
  • Built in 1765, Morris-Jumel Mansion is the oldest surviving residence in Manhattan.
  • I went on a tour of the house that included the use of paranormal investigative equipment.

Located just off 162nd Street in New York City's Washington Heights neighborhood, there is a historic mansion dating back to the Revolutionary War that is said to be terribly haunted.

The Morris-Jumel Mansion, now a museum, functioned as George Washington's military headquarters during the Battle of Harlem Heights. Later, former vice president Aaron Burr married its owner, Eliza Jumel, who was one of the wealthiest women in America upon her death in 1865.

Jumel is said to haunt the mansion, along with other past residents and soldiers from the War of Independence. Every year around Halloween, the museum offers ghost tours to educate the public about the house and its history of paranormal activity.

I went on a ghost-hunting tour featuring the use of paranormal investigative equipment. While I still emerged skeptical about the existence of spirits, I enjoyed learning more about the little-known historical site — and witnessed some things I can't fully explain.

Here's what it was like.

Morris-Jumel Mansion, which was built in 1765, is the oldest surviving residence in Manhattan.

Morris-Jumel Mansion, which was built in 1765, is the oldest surviving residence in Manhattan.
Morris-Jumel Mansion.      Talia Lakritz/Insider

The Morris-Jumel Mansion was built by Colonel Roger Morris, a Loyalist who returned to England when the Revolutionary War broke out.

During the war, George Washington used the home as his military headquarters during the Battle of Harlem Heights. It was then purchased by Stephen Jumel, a wealthy French merchant, and his wife Eliza, an actress and socialite as well as a shrewd businesswoman, in 1810.

After Stephen Jumel died in 1832, Eliza Jumel married former vice president Aaron Burr. She filed for divorce a year later, and successfully protected the fortune she accrued from real-estate investments in what is now lower Manhattan. She died in her bedroom on the mansion's second floor in 1865 with a net worth of $1 million, or around $15 million in today's money, according to the Museum of American Finance, making her one of the richest women in America at the time.

The house is also said to be haunted.

The house is also said to be haunted.
A plaque at Morris-Jumel Mansion.      Talia Lakritz/Insider

The New York Times reported in 1981 that Eliza Jumel negotiated a $2,000 discount on the house because even then it was said to be haunted by the ghost of a Hessian soldier who fought in the Revolutionary War.

Visitors and employees of the museum have also reported incidents of paranormal activity since it opened to the public in 1904. Some tour groups have claimed to see Jumel in full period dress on the second-floor balcony. Tour guides say they've heard voices and footsteps with no one else present. Others report running into that same Hessian soldier on the stairs.

The museum's staff keeps a record of these unexplained encounters known as the Book of Haunts.

I signed up for one of the mansion's paranormal-investigation tours to see for myself.

I signed up for one of the mansion
A sign advertising a paranormal-investigation tour at Morris-Jumel Mansion.      Talia Lakritz/Insider

In the months leading up to Halloween, the Morris-Jumel Mansion offers two spooky tour experiences in addition to its regular schedule. The 75-minute candlelight ghost tour, where guides share ghost stories related to the home, costs $39.19. The paranormal investigation, lasting two-and-a-half hours and featuring the use of paranormal investigative equipment, costs $65.87.

Madeline Mungo, the mansion's public programs and visitor services manager, recommended that I book the paranormal investigation for a "more ghostly experience."

I'm not a big believer in ghosts and paranormal activity, but I do love exploring haunted places in the name of journalism.

The tour began with an introduction to the ghost-hunting equipment we'd be using, such as REM pods.

The tour began with an introduction to the ghost-hunting equipment we
A paranormal research instrument.      Talia Lakritz/Insider

REM pods light up and make noise when they detect temperature shifts and "changes of the surrounding energy field," which some believe are indicators of paranormal activity, according to the device's Amazon listing.

Tour guide Karen Compton explained that staff would bring the REM pod from room to room as our tour progressed.

Each participant also received an electromagnetic field (EMF) meter.

Each participant also received an electromagnetic field (EMF) meter.
An EMF meter.      Talia Lakritz/Insider

Electricians use EMF meters to diagnose electrical or wiring issues. Paranormal researchers use them to measure electromagnetic energy that is thought to be associated with ghosts or spirits.

For example, Compton said, if we held up the EMF meter to a piece of wooden furniture with no electric wiring inside and the lights flashed to indicate a strong electromagnetic field, it could mean a ghost is responsible. Or, she said, it could mean that we're near a lightbulb.

Another surprising tool used by paranormal researchers: motion-activated cat ball toys.

Another surprising tool used by paranormal researchers: motion-activated cat ball toys.
Cat balls on a mantle.      Talia Lakritz/Insider

The cat ball toys light up when something touches them or moves near them. If they lit up during the tour with no one nearby, paranormal activity could be one explanation, according to my guide.

I admit the cat balls made me feel more skeptical going into the tour since they seemed like a less scientific approach than the REM pod and EMF meters. Then again, as Compton reminded us, there's no proof for any of this. When it comes to paranormal investigations, it's more about the experience and feeling of the ghost hunt than the mechanics of the hunt itself.

As we assembled in the entryway, Mungo began telling us about the Morris family and the history of the house. Then, the cat ball inside the Octagon Room across the hall went off.

As we assembled in the entryway, Mungo began telling us about the Morris family and the history of the house. Then, the cat ball inside the Octagon Room across the hall went off.
The Octagon Room.      Talia Lakritz/Insider

"This was built as their summer home to escape the city, which is funny to think about now, but at the time the city had only reached ..." Mungo paused as the cat ball lit up in the empty Octagon Room, where it had clearly not been touched. I, along with other members of our group, let out a nervous giggle.

"Interesting. Well, hello," she said, before continuing. "The city had only reached about Canal Street, so this up here was farmland. Before the Morrises, before colonization, this was the land of the Lenape, and this continues to be the unceded land of the Lenape."

The tour continued in the parlor, where Eliza Jumel married Aaron Burr in 1833.

The tour continued in the parlor, where Eliza Jumel married Aaron Burr in 1833.
The parlor at Morris-Jumel Mansion.      Talia Lakritz/Insider

None of the paranormal-investigation equipment lit up in the parlor, but Compton said that three weeks ago, she walked into the empty house on a Sunday and heard the room's original pianoforte playing music on its own.

In the dining room, Mungo pointed out a clock decorated with a moon that is said to wink at handsome men.

In the dining room, Mungo pointed out a clock decorated with a moon that is said to wink at handsome men.
A clock inside the dining room at Morris-Jumel Mansion.      Talia Lakritz/Insider

A few visitors stood in front of the clock, but none reported seeing the moon wink at them. I didn't get a wink, either.

Mungo said that while the dining room "is not one of our more active spaces," the moon is known to be flirty.

"He did wink at me last week, so he is exploring himself," Mungo said, eliciting a laugh from the group.

We then headed upstairs to Jumel's bedroom, where Compton introduced dowsing rods, another ghost-hunting tool.

We then headed upstairs to Jumel
Karen Compton uses dousing rods to detect paranormal activity at the Morris-Jumel Mansion.      Talia Lakritz/Insider

Dowsing rods have historically been used to locate underground water sources, Compton said. The L-shaped tools feature long sticks that swing from side to side, even when held still by their handles.

"The idea is that if they cross, then you've found a spirit," she said. "Would anybody like to try them?"

I volunteered. I tried to stay perfectly still, but I could feel the way the slightest movement would cause the rods to swing.

"Eliza, are you here?" Compton asked.

After a few seconds, the rods crossed. I wasn't convinced that a ghost had caused the movement, but I was excited that something had happened.

I handed them to another member of the group, and the rods pointed towards a lamp in the corner of the room. Compton explained that everything in the room was original except for the carpeting and that lamp. The original fixture shattered during the installation of new carpet, which some interpreted as Jumel expressing her displeasure at the design choice.

"Do you like the carpet now?" someone asked.

The rods remained still.

The parlor that served as George Washington's war room in 1776 seemed particularly active as Compton told us about his valet, an enslaved man named William "Billy" Lee.

The parlor that served as George Washington
My EMF meter lit up in George Washington's war room.      Talia Lakritz/Insider

Many people's EMF meters, including my own, flashed yellow, orange, and red, as Compton explained that Lee was a constant presence at Washington's side for two decades and was the only enslaved person freed in his will.

"He's excited to hear you," a member of our group said of Lee.

"William Lee always responds," Compton said.

Did the presence of electromagnetic energy indicate the ghost of Lee? Were all the EMF meters in the small space simply activating each other? Perhaps my EMF meter was responding to the electric candlesticks placed on the windowsills to fill the room with a flickering yellow glow. I don't know enough about how the devices work to say, but I did appreciate the acknowledgement of Washington's complicated history as a slave owner as part of the tour.

Compton said Aaron Burr's bedchamber, where Lin-Manuel Miranda spent time writing his hit musical "Hamilton," has featured a paranormal peculiarity known as EVP, or electronic voice phenomena.

Compton said Aaron Burr
Aaron Burr's room at the Morris-Jumel Mansion.      Talia Lakritz/Insider

In paranormal investigations, EVP is defined as "apparent ghost voices attempting to communicate through typical audio recording equipment," according to a 2022 study about paranormal experiences and sensory-processing sensitivity published in the scientific journal PLOS ONE.

Authors Jess M. Williams and Mark Blagrove wrote that EVP is "an example of an illusion that results in the perception of meaningful patterns in meaningless stimuli, referred to as pareidolia, occurring in both visual and auditory forms, such as seeing faces in clouds or hearing phantom words in white noise."

Compton showed us a video taken in the room around seven years ago during a ghost tour like ours. It took a few listens, but I could make out what sounded like a scratchy, high-pitched voice exclaiming something unintelligible. It just as easily could have been a creaky piece of furniture, or distortion caused by overlapping voices in the recording.

Downstairs in the kitchen, we tried some more EVP by recording ourselves asking questions to the home's former residents and listening back to see if we got any response.

Downstairs in the kitchen, we tried some more EVP by recording ourselves asking questions to the home
The kitchen in the basement of the Morris-Jumel Mansion.      Talia Lakritz/Insider

I asked the ghost of Burr what he thought of his portrayal in the musical "Hamilton," but unfortunately did not get a response.

Mungo also spoke about the people who would have worked in the kitchen — the enslaved individuals whose names and stories were never recorded — and asked if they wanted to come forward. The REM pod and recordings remained silent.

I still didn't believe in ghosts by the end of the tour, but I was surprised by how much I wanted to see or hear one during my visit.

I still didn
Inside Morris-Jumel Mansion.      Talia Lakritz/Insider

Even as a skeptic, I found myself hoping to hear some mysterious footsteps or feel a sudden chill. This made me hyper-aware of every aspect of my surroundings, which caused some false alarms, like a mysterious shadow that turned out to be my own reflection in a glass barrier. I was struck by how easy it is to interpret anything as a sign of paranormal activity if you want to find it badly enough — even if you don't really believe in it to begin with.

Even so, I enjoyed learning about the way paranormal investigations are conducted and getting to try out some of the equipment, which I never would have known about or bought myself. I also appreciated that the tour welcomed skeptics and simply presented stories and theories without trying to convince anyone of anything.

Mungo told me that more than anything, the goal of the ghost tours is to educate visitors about the history of the mansion and its extraordinary occupants.

Mungo told me that more than anything, the goal of the ghost tours is to educate visitors about the history of the mansion and its extraordinary occupants.
Morris-Jumel Mansion.      Talia Lakritz/Insider

The Morris-Jumel Mansion didn't always embrace its reputation as a haunted building, but Mungo said the museum started offering ghost tours and paranormal investigations about a decade ago to help bring more visitors to the little-known site.

"We're kind of a hidden gem, and because this is a fun thing that has a different audience than museums tend to have, it's a gateway for them to come and see this place," Mungo said. "You do still get the history of the house. We do sneak it in."

Whether or not Jumel's ghost haunts the property, Mungo feels that her story is worth telling.

"Eliza Jumel is the coolest lady in American history and we completely forgot about her," she said. "This is the only place that's still talking about her. It's layers upon layers of history."

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