- Canarian fare is simple, traditional, and prominently features fresh seafood and local volcanic wine.
- I've been visiting the
Canary Islands for 15 years. Here's my list of the best places to eat and drink.
After living in Spain for more than a decade, I've realized the best of the country's gastronomy scene isn't fine dining or haute cuisine but, rather, simple dishes.
The way I love to eat on the Canary Islands is exactly how the locals do: shared tapas, fresh seafood, and classic comfort foods made from locally sourced ingredients.
Most Spanish restaurants on the islands are owned and run by locals, especially the smaller guachinches, which are traditional, unassuming Canarian restaurants with home-cooked local food — some even make their own wines.
Guanchinche is named for the original inhabitants of the island, Guanches, and when the word is in the name of a restaurant, I always know I'm in for a great local meal. Keep reading for more tips, must-try foods, and the best places to eat.
An introduction to the Canary Islands' best local foods and wines
The most popular local foods are hearty and unpretentious, like boiled potatoes with a savory mojo picón sauce made from garlic, pepper, and cumin. I love the hot kick the mojo picón gives the potato dish, papas arrugadas, which translates to "wrinkled potatoes" (the best ones are boiled until the skin wrinkles). Mojo picón comes in red or green, and I always buy a few jars to take home.
Another of my favorite foods to eat on the Canary Islands is gofio, a mixture of toasted cereals and lentils, crushed by a stone with a dash of salt. Local residents consider gofio a superfood that's been known as a Canarian staple for hundreds of years. I like it for breakfast as an alternative to cereal, bread, or oats. Ask if your hotel serves it if they offer a breakfast buffet.
Locally cultivated cheese is another must. My favorite is Majorero al Pimenton, a goat cheese edged with paprika. You can also find it without paprika, simply, Queso Majorero, but I crave that added flavor.
The islands also tend to have fresh, affordable seafood, prepared simply and just grilled with salt, garlic, and olive oil, or served in soup. The island is known for its mussels, clams, octopus, and a type of cichlid fish called Vieja.
I pair all these delights with local wine, cultivated on all seven of the main islands with 11 designations of origin. Expect to sample red, white, and rose varieties with mineral hints thanks to the volcanic soil in which the grapes are grown. Many of these wines never leave the islands, not even for mainland Spain, so I always try to sip as many as possible.
The best Canary Islands restaurants
Noi, Tenerife
I usually find the Canary Islands best for simple, tasty meals, but I do appreciate the more elevated and intimate dining experience Noi offers (the restaurant has just eight tables).
Located in Tenerife's capital, Santa Cruz, the menu is limited but offers unique takes on fresh Canarian cuisine, especially seafood. Sample velvety foie with seasonal mushrooms or grilled scallops with beer-yeast butter and seaweed salad — they'll melt in your mouth.
Guachinche El Talegazo, Tenerife
Munching on the barbecued meats and grilled Canarian cheese at this no-frills local spot is one of my favorite things to do when I'm ravenous after a long hike.
Guachinche El Talegazo is especially apt for lunch thanks to its modest, sunny outdoor garden, and eating here makes me feel as if I'm dining in a friend's backyard — I love the inviting familiarity of the restaurant. The staff doesn't really speak English here, so brush up on your Spanish.
La Trastienda de Chago, Gran Canaria
I usually visit La Trastienda de Chago, a wine bar and tapas restaurant after checking out some of the rockier beaches and natural swimming pools on this island's northern coast. It's as quaint as the northern village in which it resides, Gáldar, with a welcoming, cozy ambiance.
There are just a few tables indoors and outdoors and I enjoy the Canarian wines this restaurant offers from its ever-evolving wine list. Tasting wines I haven't heard of is one of the best ways I discover new volcanic favorites. And though it's not the most elaborate dish on the menu, I swear by the tomato salad, prepared with locally grown vegetables that are fresh and delicious.
El Caldero, Gran Canaria
Full disclosure: Paella isn't a Canarian specialty. It hails from the Mediterranean region of Valencia. But El Caldero is my favorite place on the Canaries for paella thanks to its ultra-fresh seafood and ample menu — the restaurant offers almost 20 types of paella.
If you're not in the mood for rice, the fideua (similar to paella but made with small noodles) or the Galician octopus are other savory options I frequently order at this oceanfront arrocería.
La Bodeguita del Medio, Lanzarote
A tapas spot not to be confused with the restaurant of the same name in Havana, Cuba, La Bodeguita del Medio offers typical delights like papas arrugadas, meatballs, ham, and Canarian cheese. I like to visit this spot with my partner or a group of friends for an easy, delicious meal of many small, shared plates — exactly how tapas should be enjoyed. I prefer to sit outside and watch the world go by, but inside is small and homey for a more intimate vibe.
La Puntilla, Lanzarote
La Puntilla has one of the best cheese plates I've found in Lanzarote. All the cheese comes from the island, as do many of the restaurant's salty, strong volcanic wine offerings.
La Puntilla also has La Marinera on the menu, a local blond ale from Nao Brewery, which was my first introduction to the island's locally brewed beer that has since become a favorite. I usually pair my drinks with whatever the catch of the day and head to the outdoor terrace to admire the fishing boats puttering around Arrecife's docks.
La Vaca Azul, Fuerteventura
La Vaca Azul is one of my preferred restaurants on all of the Canary Islands thanks to its mouthwatering seafood and charming rooftop terrace that has sunset views of crashing Atlantic waves. I usually stop in after visiting nearby El Cotillo Beach in the north of the island.
A plate of fresh mussels paired with a Canarian white wine is my go-to order, but getting the mahi-mahi baked under a thick layer of sea salt is my top choice when I need something more substantial. Skip the outdoor tables out front and instead head to the rooftop, which is a hidden gem.
Restaurante Marabu, Fuerteventura
On the southern side of the island, Restaurante Marabu is a large, airy restaurant with a beautiful shaded garden. I love that the space meshes traditional ambiance and cuisine with a contemporary twist, such as offering international options alongside typical Canarian cuisine and seafood. Day or night, I always eat in the garden, circled by a volcanic stone wall amid scattered palm trees and wine barrels.
Restaurante Los Telares, La Gomera
Located on the site of a sustainable farm and museum El Etnografico, Restaurante Los Telares is one of the few places on the Canary Islands where you can tour an eco-farm, wander a museum, do gourmet tastings, and dine on a beautiful outdoor terrace all on one property.
The restaurant sources ingredients directly from the on-site farm, and you can buy some of its products to take home, such as cheeses, wine, spices, sauces, honey, and jams. Sample the traditional dishes, or taste more creative recipes infused with local ingredients, like vegetable curry with banana flower made with bananas grown on the restaurant's farm.
Bar Terraza Pedro, La Gomera
The food at Bar Terraza Pedro is straightforward, but the views certainly aren't. This cozy spot has a gorgeous outdoor seating area overlooking the craggy mountains, giving you not only a taste of Canarian cuisine but peaceful nature, too.
After sampling most of the menu options, my go-to dishes are almogrote, a Canarian-style cheese and pepper paste, one of the most popular dishes local to La Gomera, and the eggplant with local honey for the perfect blend of sweet and savory.
La Casa del Volcán, La Palma
Located in a beautiful, freestanding building made from volcanic rock, La Casa del Volcán specializes in wines and cuisine harvested directly on the island. Some of the wines come from the restaurant's very own vines. I'll indulge in all types of gastronomic experiences here: a spontaneous wine tasting, picking up a bottle or two to go, or dining on traditional dishes seasoned with volcanic salt. I sometimes stop in just for dessert to sample sweet treats made with local bananas.
Guachinche Aguadara, El Hierro
Carnivores shouldn't miss this modest restaurant serving hearty Canarian cuisine. Guachinche Aguadara is the place to go when you want to chow down on a plate of tender, seasoned pork ribs that melt in your mouth, and while the dishes aren't what I'd consider refined — don't expect innovative, epicurean offerings here — the grilled sausages and beef are some of the best meat and pork meals I've had on the island.
If I'm on a budget, I'll pair my meat with the house wine, a D.O. Tacoronte, which costs just 6 euros for a half-bottle. Though the outdoor terrace is bare-bones, the sunset views are so stunning it doesn't matter.
La Pasada, El Hierro
One of my favorite restaurants in the Canarias when I'm on a budget, La Pasada offers delights like fried octopus, pineapple stuffed with shrimp, and garlic soup at a low price. There are just a few tables indoors and a small outdoor terrace, the latter of which being where I prefer to dine so I can easily admire the sea and mountain views alongside my meal.
View Insider's comprehensive guide to visiting the Canary Islands.