- I spent 13 hours on the Arctic Route, a bus and ferry system that runs through the Arctic Circle.
- The bus ticket cost $114 and included the price of the three ferries on the route.
I knew I'd made a mistake when my bus driver — a burly Norwegian man who's toughed out many an Arctic winter — stopped at the port in Andenes, Norway, and laughed at the wind.
He wished us luck as he pointed to the ferry employee who carried a garbage bag filled with the vomit of arriving passengers.
That moment summarizes my 13 hours on the Arctic Route, a summer bus that runs through Norway's Arctic Circle.
The northbound Arctic Route begins in Norway's Lofoten Islands
Roughly six hours before that ferry ride, two friends and I boarded a bus at the Nyvågar Rorbuhotell in the Lofoten Islands.
We were en route to Tromsø, the route's final of 24 stops. From there, we'd fly to Longyearbyen, the world's northernmost permanent settlement.
The bus had been my idea; flights to Tromsø started at about $200 and included at least one layover. Meanwhile, the bus, which runs from June through August, cost us about $114 and included the price of the three ferries on the route.
We hopped on the bus at 7:20 a.m., with plans to arrive at our hotel just after 8 p.m.
Scenic stops helped to break up the journey
My friends and I were the only passengers for the entire ride, aside from one woman who joined a few stops before Tromsø.
Given the extra space, we each snagged a window seat, from which we enjoyed views of mountains, the coast, and, closer to Tromsø, the occasional reindeer.
However, the bus's biggest benefit was the chance to engage with such scenery. Unlike most buses of convenience, the Arctic Route was akin to a tour of Northern Norway.
The consistent stopping points allowed for bathroom breaks, photos, and time to explore unique businesses in equally unique locations.
My favorite stop was Marmelkroken, a resort and restaurant whose cozy interior and friendly owner made for a stop well spent.
The first ferry was relaxing and helped the time pass quickly
Soon into the route, we drove onto the first of three ferries, during which the Arctic waters remained tranquil. Our bus parked on the lower level, and the ride was under an hour but we had enough time to explore upstairs.
With windows overlooking the water, the ferry was the perfect place to enjoy the cinnamon rolls we'd packed.
We also spent time on the ferry deck, where the cool, fresh air provided us with some much-needed energy after our early start.
The Andenes ferry was both a midpoint and a low point of the journey
Unlike the first ferry, the second required us to switch buses and board a new one upon arrival. This ferry ride clocked in at just under two hours.
Despite the warnings of our bus driver, I didn't expect seasickness to be an issue. But when we sat down, an employee dropped a cluster of barf bags on our table, like a waitress handing out menus.
The next two hours were rough.
The combination of waves and wind rocked the ferry in all directions. As the motion gained momentum, I started to regret not buying the plane ticket to Tromsø.
Although I didn't need those paper bags, the majority of the passengers weren't as lucky. The cabin was filled with nervous energy as well as the sound, sight, and scent of vomit.
The ferry does get canceled in the event of inclement weather, though the recognition of our safety did little to divert my fears in that moment.
After the second ferry, morale improved
When we touched ground in Gryllefjord, we boarded a new bus, whose driver stopped frequently for fresh air.
About five hours remained on the route, which included one more ferry. That excursion, luckily, was less than an hour long and came with smooth waters and an onboard café.
When we arrived in Tromsø, our driver dropped us off at our hotel instead of at the bus stop — a kind gesture that felt monumental after our long day.
Next time, I'd prepare accordingly
The wind that July afternoon was especially strong, so not every Arctic Route journey — nor Andenes crossing — comes with such excitement.
Even so, I would plan better in the future; I would hold off on breakfast and pack motion-sickness medicine. I'd also stand on the outdoor deck instead of inside the cabin.
Beyond the ferry, I would likewise extend my journey by a few days to better explore the passing towns.
Despite the state of its windblown waters, Andenes, especially, appealed to me — it's a popular starting point for Arctic whale-watching tours.
Although I regretted my choice while on the water, I'm ultimately glad I booked the bus
Whenever I fly, I need a few days to truly process where I am. But on the Arctic Route, I was grounded from the get-go. I felt fully present and immersed in my surroundings for 13 hours.
Doesn't that summarize Northern Norway, where extremities are the norm and nature's unpredictability lends it power as much as it does charm?
After all, you don't go to the Arctic unless you want an adventure.