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I'm a Canadian snowboarder and just went to Niseko for the first time. The Japanese ski town was fantastic but didn't compare to Whistler.

Feb 2, 2024, 13:13 IST
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Tammy Kwan and her husband enjoyed Japanese lunches in Niseko.Tammy Kwan
  • Tammy Kwan is a snowboarder who grew up in Vancouver, near the world-famous Whistler Blackcomb resort.
  • After not seeing snow since moving to Asia two years back, she went on a ski trip to Niseko, Japan.
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I'm Canadian and grew up in Vancouver. Local ski mountains were our backyard, so hitting the nearby slopes every winter was easy. Even Whistler Blackcomb ski resort was only a two-hour drive from home — where the diverse terrain and charming village are world-famous and Winter Olympics-worthy for good reason.

My husband and I moved to Singapore for work over two years ago. Living in a tropical climate meant we hadn't been snowboarding since. We'd been itching to get back onto fresh runs, and instead of booking an almost 15-hour flight back home, we excitedly planned a ski trip to Japan with our friends. The flight from Singapore to Tokyo takes half the time at less than seven hours.

Two weeks ago, in January, we flew into Tokyo for a few days, then took a domestic flight to Sapporo. The ride in a private taxi to Niseko, Hokkaido, took around two hours.

Here are five reasons Niseko offered a better experience than Whistler, but why I would still choose the North American ski resort over the Japanese ski destination.

1. Consistently soft and powdery snow

A sunny afternoon on the slopes of Niseko Tokyu Grand HIRAFUTammy Kwan

We spent four days on the slopes in Niseko Tokyu Grand HIRAFU, and even though we didn't get a big dump of snow until our last day, the snow was consistently fluffy and powdery even when the temperatures hovered around 14 degrees Fahrenheit.

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The daily snowfall helped keep the green runs from being too icy, and the snow quality got even better when we went down the more difficult red and black runs.

Powder days in Whistler do happen, but it's a rare occurrence. There's a reason they call it "Ja-pow" at Hokkaido ski resorts.

2. Lunch at the ski hill cafeteria

Tempura soba, tonkatsu curry, and a doughnut for lunch on the slope.Tammy Kwan

In Whistler and local mountains across British Columbia, my quick bites on the mountains usually consisted of mediocre burgers, poutines, and chili. In Niseko, the resort lunches aren't cheap: Dishes range between $17 to $24. But everything I tried was delicious, including tonkatsu curry rice, spicy miso ramen, charcoal-grilled chicken cartilage, and tempura soba. Meals usually ended with Hokkaido milk soft-serve ice cream.

As for drinks, when we weren't in the mood for another cold beer, green tea or hot chocolate were good options at the dining hall. The Japanese vending machines never disappointed either with offerings like hot milk tea and Calpis soda.

3. Big, beautiful, and well-equipped chalets

The living room view at Sanga House ChaletTammy Kwan

Since we traveled with a big group, we agreed it would be easier to book a private chalet so everyone could hang out and relax in shared spaces. There are many different chalet and cabin options at varying prices listed on Niseko holiday rental websites. Many of these lodgings are newly built or renovated and provide a cozy escape from the cold winter outside.

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Our chalet came with a direct view of Mount Yotei (weather permitting), an eight-person vehicle, a heated jacket and boot storage room, snowboard and ski racks, a fully equipped kitchen and utensils, and a fireplace. It was a bit of a splurge, but nothing good comes cheap in Niseko — it was around $185 per night, per person.

4. Homecooked Japanese meals

Quality Wagyu beef from the local supermarket for homecooking.Tammy Kwan

The après-ski food options were difficult to navigate, as many dining establishments required advance reservations. During our five days in Niseko, we only made one restaurant booking. Despite being one of the more highly rated izakaya establishments, we all agreed the food was not worth the price. I paid $33 for a few small appetizers, and other friends paid around $70 per person for shabu shabu with sides of sashimi.

We decided to venture to Lucky Supermarket in nearby Kutchan, which was an eight-minute drive away from our chalet. The grocer was stocked with everything from wagyu beef, fresh seafood, and sushi to fresh fruits and veggies — perfect for making our own sukiyaki and shabu shabu dinner at home.

A tray of fatty wagyu beef cost around 7,200 Yen, or $49, which was more than enough for three people. Eating these types of meals out in Niseko would have cost us at least triple the price, and it was more enjoyable to stay cozy and cook at the chalet with our friends.

5. Hot springs to help relax

The entrance to Niseko Grand Hotel Hokkaido for the day-use onsenTammy Kwan

Onsens, or Japanese hot spring baths, are not the norm in Whistler. Around Niseko, a handful of these bathing facilities use naturally hot water from geothermally heated springs. Many people believe various health benefits are associated with soaking in these hot indoor and outdoor baths.

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Onsen etiquette is also unique: Men and women are separated into different hot spring facilities, everyone must fully wash and rinse their bodies before entering the baths, and no clothing is allowed. It wasn't my first time visiting an onsen, but it still took some time to get used to — I don't often get fully naked with friends.

My sore muscles felt more relaxed after visiting an onsen at the end of each night, and it helped prepare me for another full day of snowboarding the next morning. Watching the snow fall into the misty outdoor hot spring bath was also something I won't soon forget.

Final Verdict

Clear view of Mount Yotei in Niseko, Japan.Tammy Kwan

I'm glad I got to snowboard in Niseko, Hokkaido, at least once in my life, and experience its renowned powdery snow. Although Niseko has many pros, I couldn't help compare it to Whistler every chance I got.

Even if the snow in Whistler isn't as consistent, it surpasses the Japanese ski town for many reasons. The Canadian ski resort is bigger, home to more versatile terrain, and it offers better scenery on the slopes. The mountain is also more connected. As for the village, it has more shopping and dining destinations, more activities and sightseeing for non-skiers, and there are more accommodation options to choose from.

We will probably make our way back to a different ski resort in Japan while living in Asia. But when we do eventually move back to Vancouver, it's a no-brainer where we'll go snowboarding first.

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