scorecardI've never seen 'The Lord of the Rings' but went to the New Zealand set where it was filmed. It's one of the most magical places I've ever been.
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  4. I've never seen 'The Lord of the Rings' but went to the New Zealand set where it was filmed. It's one of the most magical places I've ever been.

I've never seen 'The Lord of the Rings' but went to the New Zealand set where it was filmed. It's one of the most magical places I've ever been.

Monica Humphries   

I've never seen 'The Lord of the Rings' but went to the New Zealand set where it was filmed. It's one of the most magical places I've ever been.
The Hobbiton Movie Set in New Zealand.Monica Humphries/Insider
  • I visited the New Zealand set where scenes from "The Lord of the Rings" and "The Hobbit" filmed.
  • I hadn't seen the movies and wondered if I was wasting my time by visiting the Hobbiton Movie Set.

Hours after my red-eye flight landed in Auckland, New Zealand, I was in a van heading to the Hobbiton Movie Set, where scenes from "The Lord of the Rings" trilogy and "The Hobbit" were filmed.

Hours after my red-eye flight landed in Auckland, New Zealand, I was in a van heading to the Hobbiton Movie Set, where scenes from "The Lord of the Rings" trilogy and "The Hobbit" were filmed.
The author in a van heading to the Hobbiton Movie Set.      Monica Humphries/Insider

Hobbiton is a fictional place in J.R.R. Tolkien's "The Lord of the Rings" and "The Hobbit" books. It's part of what the book calls The Shire, located in a fantasy world named Middle-earth.

Hobbiton is a fictional place in J.R.R. Tolkien
The Shire in "The Lord of the Rings" trilogy.      New Line Cinema

Hobbiton is home to some of the series' most famous hobbits like Bilbo and Frodo Baggins, and the Hobbiton Movie Set is where many scenes were filmed. Today, it's one of New Zealand's most famous tourist attractions, according to Culture Trip.

Hobbiton is home to some of the series
A hobbit home at the Hobbiton Movie Set.      Monica Humphries/Insider

Source: Culture Trip

For many, "The Lord of the Rings" is a main motivator to visit New Zealand. In 2019, for example, Matador Network reported that tourism around the movies, known as "Tolkien Tourism," contributed $428 million USD to the county's economy.

For many, "The Lord of the Rings" is a main motivator to visit New Zealand. In 2019, for example, Matador Network reported that tourism around the movies, known as "Tolkien Tourism," contributed $428 million USD to the county
An Air New Zealand 747-400 with Lord of the Rings graphics from 2004.      Air New Zealand/Getty Images

As a tourist in New Zealand, I felt like an outlier. I'm not the biggest fantasy fan, and I've never seen the movies or picked up the books.

As a tourist in New Zealand, I felt like an outlier. I
A copy of "The Lord of the Rings."      Astfreelancer/Shutterstock

But since it seemed like a quintessential part of visiting New Zealand, I signed up for a tour of Hobbiton.

But since it seemed like a quintessential part of visiting New Zealand, I signed up for a tour of Hobbiton.
The author's ticket and map to the Hobbiton Movie Set.      Monica Humphries/Insider

I booked a tour through the third-party company FlexiToursNZ for $175 USD, which included transportation and an official tour of the Hobbiton Movie Set.

I booked a tour through the third-party company FlexiToursNZ for $175 USD, which included transportation and an official tour of the Hobbiton Movie Set.
Monica Humphries/Insider

Source: FlexiToursNZ

On my first day in the country, a driver arrived at my hotel in downtown Auckland to transport me and a group of six others to the Hobbiton Movie Set.

On my first day in the country, a driver arrived at my hotel in downtown Auckland to transport me and a group of six others to the Hobbiton Movie Set.
The van in downtown Auckland, New Zealand.      Monica Humphries/Insider

Source: FlexiToursNZ

On the two-hour drive from Auckland to New Zealand's Matamata region, where the Hobbiton Movie Set is located, I felt a flurry of emotions.

On the two-hour drive from Auckland to New Zealand
A map of New Zealand with a pin dropped at the location for the Hobbiton Movie Set.      Google Maps

I was thrilled to be in a beautiful country with 10 days of adventuring ahead. I was exhausted from the 13-hour flight. And I wondered if I was wasting my day by exploring an attraction created around something I knew so little about.

I was thrilled to be in a beautiful country with 10 days of adventuring ahead. I was exhausted from the 13-hour flight. And I wondered if I was wasting my day by exploring an attraction created around something I knew so little about.
A part of the Hobbiton Movie Set.      Monica Humphries/Insider

As the van barreled down narrow roads, I was thankful that at the bare minimum, I'd at least enjoy a stunning drive. As the city's skyscrapers filled the rearview mirror, ahead were vibrant rolling hills dotted with sheep.

As the van barreled down narrow roads, I was thankful that at the bare minimum, I
A view during the drive to Hobbiton.      Monica Humphries/Insider

Finally, I arrived at the Hobbiton Movie Set. I spotted a café, a souvenir shop selling hobbit trinkets, and bathrooms. What I didn't see was Hobbiton.

Finally, I arrived at the Hobbiton Movie Set. I spotted a café, a souvenir shop selling hobbit trinkets, and bathrooms. What I didn
The building where tours of Hobbiton depart.      Monica Humphries/Insider

From listening to friends rave about the movies, I knew Hobbiton was known for its round, colorful doors and homes built into a hillside. I saw none of that as I looked around.

From listening to friends rave about the movies, I knew Hobbiton was known for its round, colorful doors and homes built into a hillside. I saw none of that as I looked around.
The Hobbiton Movie Set gift shop.      Monica Humphries/Insider

My driver explained that this was where the tour departed — not where Hobbiton was located. I'd join a larger group on a bus where I'd meet my official tour guide and head to Hobbiton, the driver said.

My driver explained that this was where the tour departed — not where Hobbiton was located. I
A bus leaves Hobbiton.      Monica Humphries/Insider

I did just that and embarked on a five-minute drive to Hobbiton. On the short ride, the tour guide assured us that we'd have a fun time regardless of if we've seen "The Lord of the Rings."

I did just that and embarked on a five-minute drive to Hobbiton. On the short ride, the tour guide assured us that we
A tourist gets on a bus heading to the Hobbiton Movie Set.      Monica Humphries/Insider

Once off the bus, I again searched for the colorful hobbit holes. The only thing I noticed was a sign confirming I was in the right place.

Once off the bus, I again searched for the colorful hobbit holes. The only thing I noticed was a sign confirming I was in the right place.
A sign at the entrance to the Hobbiton Movie Set.      Monica Humphries/Insider

Our group of about 20 people walked along a muddy, narrow path. As I turned a corner, Hobbiton finally came into view.

Our group of about 20 people walked along a muddy, narrow path. As I turned a corner, Hobbiton finally came into view.
The path leading to the Hobbiton Movie Set.      Monica Humphries/Insider

The reveal felt magical. Built into a hillside were bright, circular doors and hobbit homes. Smoke billowed from tiny chimneys and a vegetable garden sat at the bottom of the hill.

The reveal felt magical. Built into a hillside were bright, circular doors and hobbit homes. Smoke billowed from tiny chimneys and a vegetable garden sat at the bottom of the hill.
The Hobbiton Movie Set.      Monica Humphries/Insider

As the tour zig-zagged up the hill, I stopped at tiny hobbit holes with little mailboxes and miniature-sized fences. Our guide explained that this was the location used in both "The Lord of the Rings" and "The Hobbit."

As the tour zig-zagged up the hill, I stopped at tiny hobbit holes with little mailboxes and miniature-sized fences. Our guide explained that this was the location used in both "The Lord of the Rings" and "The Hobbit."
A hobbit hole at the Hobbiton Movie Set.      Monica Humphries/Insider

According to my guide, the movie's director Peter Jackson first spotted the land on an aerial search for filming locations for "The Lord of the Rings."

According to my guide, the movie
Director Peter Jackson emerges from from a Hobbit house in 2012.      Hagen Hopkins/Getty Images

When Jackson saw the rolling hills with mountain views, massive oaks, and ponds, our tour guide said the director immediately knew that this was the closest thing to Middle-earth.

When Jackson saw the rolling hills with mountain views, massive oaks, and ponds, our tour guide said the director immediately knew that this was the closest thing to Middle-earth.
A view of the Alexander family farm.      Monica Humphries/Insider

According to my guide, when movie scouts approached the farm's owner, Ian Alexander, he had never heard of "The Lord of the Rings." Ultimately, he agreed to the construction of Hobbiton on his 1,250-acre sheep farm.

According to my guide, when movie scouts approached the farm
Sheep at the Alexander family farm.      Monica Humphries/Insider

The same location was used for filming both "The Lord of the Rings" and "The Hobbit" trilogies. However, the movie set for "The Lord of the Rings" trilogy was disassembled after filming, my tour guide said.

The same location was used for filming both "The Lord of the Rings" and "The Hobbit" trilogies. However, the movie set for "The Lord of the Rings" trilogy was disassembled after filming, my tour guide said.
A set for "The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey" in a remote valley in on the South Island of New Zealand.      Tim Clayton/Corbis/Getty Images

When directors approached the Alexander family again to film "The Hobbit," the family insisted that the directors build a permanent set and transform their farm into a tourist attraction.

When directors approached the Alexander family again to film "The Hobbit," the family insisted that the directors build a permanent set and transform their farm into a tourist attraction.
A view of a field and massive oak tree at the Hobbiton Movie Set.      Monica Humphries/Insider

The filmmakers agreed, and today, there are 44 permanent hobbit holes on 14 acres of farmland co-owned by the movie makers and the Alexander family, the guide said.

The filmmakers agreed, and today, there are 44 permanent hobbit holes on 14 acres of farmland co-owned by the movie makers and the Alexander family, the guide said.
A hobbit home with a blue, circular door.      Monica Humphries/Insider

As I looked around, I didn't feel like I was on a movie set. Instead, it felt like I had stepped into a real-life fantasy.

As I looked around, I didn
The Hobbiton Movie Set in New Zealand.      Monica Humphries/Insider

I towered over the circular doors and peered into the little homes.

I towered over the circular doors and peered into the little homes.
A door is open to a hobbit hole on the Hobbiton Movie Set.      Monica Humphries/Insider

Each one was unique. One hobbit hole was staged to look like a baker's home with a stand of fake bread outside. Another had a picnic table lined with child-size replicas of cheese, vegetables, and cakes.

Each one was unique. One hobbit hole was staged to look like a baker
A bread stand was in front of one hobbit hole.      Monica Humphries/Insider

According to my guide, the property's biggest undertaking was a giant oak above Bag End, which is where the hobbit characters Bilbo and Frodo Baggins live.

According to my guide, the property
A fake tree at the Hobbiton Movie Set.      Monica Humphries/Insider

The massive oak was real when they filmed "The Lord of the Rings." But since "The Hobbit" takes place 60 years earlier, they cut it down and replaced it with a younger replica of the same tree, my tour guide said.

The massive oak was real when they filmed "The Lord of the Rings." But since "The Hobbit" takes place 60 years earlier, they cut it down and replaced it with a younger replica of the same tree, my tour guide said.
Gandalf and Bilbo Baggins sit at Bag End, Bilbo Baggins' home.      New Line Cinema

That replica, the tour guide said, has 200 branches and thousands of hand-painted leaves imported from Taiwan. "On a windy day, the tree sways just like the natural trees," my guide said.

That replica, the tour guide said, has 200 branches and thousands of hand-painted leaves imported from Taiwan. "On a windy day, the tree sways just like the natural trees," my guide said.
The artificial tree with hand-painted leaves.      Monica Humphries/Insider

From a distance, it was impossible to spot which tree was fake. As I approached the replica, I was amazed by how real it looked.

From a distance, it was impossible to spot which tree was fake. As I approached the replica, I was amazed by how real it looked.
The fake tree from a distance.      Monica Humphries/Insider

As the two-hour tour continued, plenty of details and references went over my head due to my lack of movie knowledge.

As the two-hour tour continued, plenty of details and references went over my head due to my lack of movie knowledge.
A view of Hobbiton.      Monica Humphries/Insider

Luckily, the stories about the lengths the filmmakers went to create movies that were similar to the books they're based on kept me fascinated throughout the entire tour.

Luckily, the stories about the lengths the filmmakers went to create movies that were similar to the books they
A row of hobbit homes.      Monica Humphries/Insider

For example, the farm had more than 10,000 sheep when filming started. But because Jackson didn't think the look of the breed matched the book, he imported thousands of Suffolk sheep to the set instead.

For example, the farm had more than 10,000 sheep when filming started. But because Jackson didn
Sheep at the Alexander family farm.      Monica Humphries/Insider

And even after all that effort, there isn't a single sheep spotted in the movie, the tour guide said.

And even after all that effort, there isn
Suffolk sheep.      Jesse Seniunas/Shutterstock

After walking past the 44 hobbit holes, the group headed to the Party Tree and Party Field, which I learned was where Bilbo's farewell party scene took place.

After walking past the 44 hobbit holes, the group headed to the Party Tree and Party Field, which I learned was where Bilbo
The Party Tree and Party Field at the Hobbiton Movie Set.      Monica Humphries/Insider

It was once a swamp, our tour guide said, but was transformed into an open field and decorated with lanterns.

It was once a swamp, our tour guide said, but was transformed into an open field and decorated with lanterns.
The Part Tree at the Hobbiton Movie Set.      Monica Humphries/Insider

From the field, we crossed over a bridge to the Green Dragon Inn, which was the meeting place for Hobbiton residents in the movies.

From the field, we crossed over a bridge to the Green Dragon Inn, which was the meeting place for Hobbiton residents in the movies.
A bridge leading to the Green Dragon Inn.      Monica Humphries/Insider

Here, our tour guide switched roles and became a bartender. He poured us ales and ciders, which were included in the price of the tour, to help us feel like we reenacting the movies.

Here, our tour guide switched roles and became a bartender. He poured us ales and ciders, which were included in the price of the tour, to help us feel like we reenacting the movies.
The bar at the Green Dragon Inn.      Monica Humphries/Insider

I grabbed a glass of ginger beer and walked around the interior and exterior of the inn, which our guide said was a replica of what was featured in the films.

I grabbed a glass of ginger beer and walked around the interior and exterior of the inn, which our guide said was a replica of what was featured in the films.
The exterior of the Green Dragon Inn.      Monica Humphries/Insider

The intricate details I saw throughout the inn and across the entire property impressed me. It seemed like the directors went to impressive lengths to recreate every detail from the books.

The intricate details I saw throughout the inn and across the entire property impressed me. It seemed like the directors went to impressive lengths to recreate every detail from the books.
Props line the length of a bar at the Green Dragon Inn.      Monica Humphries/Insider

Once my ceramic mug was drained, the tour was over. As my group headed back to the bus, another group was starting their tour, and I spotted a few tourists dressed up as movie characters.

Once my ceramic mug was drained, the tour was over. As my group headed back to the bus, another group was starting their tour, and I spotted a few tourists dressed up as movie characters.
Tourists walk through the movie set.      Monica Humphries/Insider

Two hours in the whimsical world flew by, even with my limited knowledge. As I spoke with the fans around me, they said they were even more mystified and amazed by Hobbiton than I was.

Two hours in the whimsical world flew by, even with my limited knowledge. As I spoke with the fans around me, they said they were even more mystified and amazed by Hobbiton than I was.
Tourists walk along a path at Hobbiton Movie Set in New Zealand.      Monica Humphries/Insider

On the drive back to Auckland, I scrolled through the hundreds of photos I snapped, and realized I was already missing the magical place with its stunning scenery and impressive details.

On the drive back to Auckland, I scrolled through the hundreds of photos I snapped, and realized I was already missing the magical place with its stunning scenery and impressive details.
A hobbit hole at the Hobbiton Movie Set.      Monica Humphries/Insider

Ultimately, the Hobbiton Movie Set tour felt like an ideal way to kick off my trip to New Zealand. And it gave me an even better reason to finally watch the iconic films.

Ultimately, the Hobbiton Movie Set tour felt like an ideal way to kick off my trip to New Zealand. And it gave me an even better reason to finally watch the iconic films.
The author in the Green Dragon Inn at the Hobbiton Movie Set.      Monica Humphries/Insider
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