Growing up in a Puerto Rican household in Philadelphia, rice and beans was our mac and cheese. It always hit the spot and made me feel comforted and safe. My mom used to say that whenever you're feeling sick, you need a plate of "arroz, habichuelas, y carne," — rice, beans, and meat — to make everything better. When I moved back to Puerto Rico as an adult, it felt familiar to see the same dishes at local restaurants.
Puerto Rican food is known for its heartiness and good seasoning. The plantain is one of the island's most versatile crops, and serves as the base for mofongo, a mashed dish with garlic, broth, and a choice of protein.
Cooks also cut and flatten plantains to make tostones, a fried dish often served in the place of French fries. Once ripe, cooks use plantains to make maduros — soft, sweet, fried accompaniments.
Puerto Rico's food scene is undergoing a massive shift. Agritourism and farm-to-table dining experiences are on the rise, and award-winning chefs are reimagining gourmet dishes with organic, locally sourced ingredients.
Island visitors can best appreciate this movement in San Juan, the capital city that's abundant with restaurants, food trucks, and hole-in-the-wall finds. These are some of my top picks to taste your way through the city.