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  4. I went to the 85-year-old restaurant that taught Taco Bell's creator how to make its iconic taco — and it shows just how much the chain has evolved in 5 decades

I went to the 85-year-old restaurant that taught Taco Bell's creator how to make its iconic taco and it shows just how much the chain has evolved in 5 decades

Ben Gilbert   

I went to the 85-year-old restaurant that taught Taco Bell's creator how to make its iconic taco — and it shows just how much the chain has evolved in 5 decades
The hard shell ground beef taco from Mitla Cafe that launched Taco Bell.Ben Gilbert/Insider
  • In 1951, Taco Bell founder Glen Bell opened his first taco stand in California.
  • Bell went on to create Taco Bell, which popularized hard-shelled ground beef taco across the US.

You'd never know it from looking, but an unassuming little restaurant in sleepy San Bernardino, California was the birthplace of an American fast food icon: The hard-shelled ground beef taco.

Taco Bell, of course, is directly associated with the most American of taco choices: lightly-spiced ground beef, shredded iceberg lettuce, chopped tomatoes, topped with neon-orange cheddar and served in a hard-shelled tortilla.

But it was Mitla Cafe, which opened decades before Taco Bell in 1937, that created and popularized it.

85 years later, and Mitla Cafe is still standing. Better yet: It's still churning out incredible hard-shelled tacos that I tried last week.

From the outside, Mitla Cafe offers no indication of its historical relevance.

From the outside, Mitla Cafe offers no indication of its historical relevance.
Every day is beautiful in Southern California, even in early March.      Ben Gilbert/Insider

If it weren't for the steady stream of customers walking from a nearby parking lot, I wouldn't have known that Mitla Cafe was even open.

Despite the triple distinction of being located along historic Route 66, being open for 85 years, and being the foundation for the popularization of tacos nationwide, there's no signage on the outside of Mitla Cafe touting as much.

Upon entering Mitla Cafe, it's immediately clear that this is a local spot with deep roots.

Upon entering Mitla Cafe, it
Ben Gilbert/Insider

Growing up in the suburban northeastern US, Mitla Cafe immediately felt familiar — like so many Italian-American restaurants I frequented as a child.

Photos of family and friends hang on every wall as a testament to the four generations of the same family that continues to own and operate the decades-old restaurant.

There's just one piece of paper detailing the restaurant's impact on American culture, and you have to look to find it.

There
A well-used cork board adorned with local happenings, as well as a brief history lesson.      Ben Gilbert/Insider

A single 8.5 x 11 piece of paper — pinned to the community cork board alongside a half dozen business cards and an advertisement for amateur Lucha Libre — is the only indication in Mitla Cafe that there is any connection to Glen Bell and the Taco Bell fast-food franchise.

Despite being in the restaurant explicitly because of its history, I didn't even notice the paper until a family relative who happened to be in the restaurant picking up food saw me snapping photos and asked if I knew of the connection to Taco Bell.

So the story goes: In the early 1950s, Taco Bell founder Glen Bell began eating at Mitla Cafe. He liked the restaurant's hard-shelled ground beef tacos so much that he sought to re-create them.

So the story goes: In the early 1950s, Taco Bell founder Glen Bell began eating at Mitla Cafe. He liked the restaurant
Ben Gilbert/Insider

In Gustavo Arellano's foundational food history book "Taco USA: How Mexican Food Conquered America," the author documents how Bell — who owned nearby Bell's Burgers, and later founded Taco Bell — learned how to make tacos.

"He used to come over here all the time," Irma Montaño, a descendent of the original owners Lucia Rodriguez and Vicente Montaño, told Arellano. "My father-in-law would say Mr. Bell kept asking about the tacos, how he made them, and so my father-in-law finally invited him into the kitchen to teach him."

Notably, none of this history is on Taco Bell's history website.

Notably, none of this history is on Taco Bell
Taco Bell/Yum! Brands

When asked about the history, the current owners of Mitla Cafe demur.

"Everyone's been fairly philosophical," current co-owner Mike Montaño told CBS last November. "I don't want people to feel like they weren't successful or that they were taken advantage of or anything like that."

Irma Montaño was similarly positive in Arellano's book. "Good for him," she said. "He was a self-starter, and he did push those tacos."

Taco Bell representatives didn't respond to a request for comment regarding the company's history page excluding Mitla Cafe and the Montaño family.

Don't worry: On the day I stopped in last week — a random Wednesday afternoon — Mitla Cafe was downright thriving. There was even a wait, albeit brief, to get a table.

Don
Ben Gilbert/Insider

Regardless of its history, Mitla Cafe wasn't packed full of tourists roadtripping along Route 66. Instead, both the dining room and the bar area were full of locals. I was certainly the only guy in the dining room furiously snapping photos of my food.

Mitla Cafe's menu is pulled from another time, and features Cottage Cheese Fruit Salad next to Guacamole "Dip."

Mitla Cafe
Ben Gilbert/Insider

There's a "Mexican Combinations" section and an "American Flavor" section on Mitla Cafe's menu — an anachronistic nod to a previous era, when Mexican food like tacos and enchiladas weren't considered as American as apple pie.

You can order an "orange whip" to drink — a drink that was last in style decades deep into the previous century.

There's not even an obvious way to order the hard-shelled ground beef taco that Mitla is famous for having created. Among the 31 items listed under the "A La Carte" section is one simply labeled "Taco." It is there that you can specify "hard-shelled" and "ground beef."

I ordered a taco, of course, and a beef enchilada. My partner ordered the number one, which included a tostada, a taco, and a cheese enchilada. As we waited, a freshly-fried basket of tortilla chips arrived with salsa.

I ordered a taco, of course, and a beef enchilada. My partner ordered the number one, which included a tostada, a taco, and a cheese enchilada. As we waited, a freshly-fried basket of tortilla chips arrived with salsa.
Ben Gilbert/Insider

Though visually similar, and made from the same ingredients, it's hard to overstate how different Mitla Cafe's hard-shelled taco is from Taco Bell.

Though visually similar, and made from the same ingredients, it
Ben Gilbert/Insider

How different is Mitla Cafe's hard-shelled ground beef taco from Taco Bell's hard-shelled ground beef taco? Let us count the ways! For starters, Mitla Cafe fries each tortilla to order.

How different is Mitla Cafe
Ben Gilbert/Insider

You can see the difference both in the tortilla's lighter color and in the irregularity of its edges. You can also instantly taste the difference, as Mitla's hard-shelled tortilla doesn't instantly crack into a trillion pieces after a single bite.

Inside the tortilla, Mitla Cafe uses a heavily-spiced ground beef patty rather than loose ground beef.

Inside the tortilla, Mitla Cafe uses a heavily-spiced ground beef patty rather than loose ground beef.
Ben Gilbert/Insider

The biggest difference in flavor comes from the primary ingredient in Mitla Cafe's hard-shelled taco: The beef.

Rather than using loosely sauteed beef which can sog through the tortilla, Mitla creates a kind of burger patty. It's heavily-spiced, textured, and wildly delicious. The beef, beyond everything else, was the best part of Mitla's foundational taco.

It probably goes without saying, but this is a significantly better taco than the one it inspired at Taco Bell.

The rest of the ingredients — shredded lettuce, chopped tomatoes, and grated cheddar cheese — were improved simply by not coming from a fast-food kitchen.

The rest of the ingredients — shredded lettuce, chopped tomatoes, and grated cheddar cheese — were improved simply by not coming from a fast-food kitchen.
Ben Gilbert/Insider

More often than not, the lettuce and tomatoes used in fast food items is limp, cold, and flavorless. That's because it's often pre-cut and shipped in bags to the franchise for ease of use.

The experience at Mitla Cafe was what you would expect from a restaurant: the lettuce and tomato were crisp, and the cheddar was room temperature rather than cold. We're not talking about a revelatory experience here, but it's clear that the quality was higher solely based on its context. And it makes a difference in the final product when you're biting through crunchy lettuce rather than wilted greens.

Beyond the taco, everything we got at Mitla Cafe was tremendous. It's easy to understand why it's been a community staple for over 80 years.

Beyond the taco, everything we got at Mitla Cafe was tremendous. It
The combination plate my partner got featured a cheese enchilada, a bean tostada, and a hard-shelled ground beef taco. It was glorious.      Ben Gilbert/Insider

From the fast, friendly service to the delicious food, it's easy to understand why Mitla Cafe has survived and thrived for nearly 100 years.

For me, having grown up in the suburbs outside New York City, the experience at Mitla Cafe evoked nostalgia-laced memories of chicken cacciatore and lasagna dinners at my favorite Italian-American restaurant from childhood, John the Baker. The flavors are different, of course, but there's a universality to comforting home cooking that crosses cultures seamlessly.

For more on the history of Mitla Cafe and the popularization of tacos across America, check out this CBS Sunday Morning segment:

And don't miss Gustavo Arellano's critically-important book on the history of tacos in the US, "Taco USA: How Mexican Food Conquered America."

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