I traveled in Italy when I was younger, but I'd never been to Rome before.Hannah Docter-Loeb
- I spent last fall traveling around Europe and got to visit Rome for the first time.
- The pizza is square, there are plenty of clean drinking fountains, and gelato shops are open late.
In 2022, I worked remotely and traveled across Europe, visiting friends and exploring some of the big cities I'd heard so much about.
I went to a few places in Italy during my childhood, but I'd never been to the capital, so I was excited to see Rome.
I spent two days and three nights sightseeing, eating, and trying to soak in the Eternal City. But there were plenty of surprises along the way.
Water fountains are everywhere, and they're safe to drink from.
I drank from the nasoni ("big nose") water fountains in Rome. Hannah Docter-Loeb
Around Rome, there are hundreds of free water fountains or "nasonis."
The water in most of the decorative fountains around the city is recycled. But when you see a thin hooked spout on a cylindrical fountain, that's potable water. Nasoni means "big nose," and that's kind of what the spout looks like.
It was very refreshing to be able to just carry a bottle around and know I'd be able to find a good water source wherever I want, especially because some restaurants charge for water.
Pizza can come in square slices.
Roman-style pizza al taglio comes in squares. Hannah Docter-Loeb
I was really excited to grab a slice of pizza and stroll around the streets of Rome.
I'm used to seeing triangular slices cut out of circular pies. But I was surprised to see that many of the grab-and-go places bake pizzas in large rectangular trays and sell square slices by weight.
Called "pizza al taglio," this variety was supposedly invented in Rome, but it's also found around the country.
It's a pretty quick and cheap lunch. One sizable rectangle cost me about 3 euros, or $3.25.
The Vatican really isn't hard to get to.
St. Peter's Basilica in Vatican City. Hannah Docter-Loeb
I knew Vatican City was close, but I didn't realize just how accessible it was from Rome.
It's just across the river — a few stops on the Line A metro.
If you're into walking, you can cross the picturesque St. Angelo bridge and stop by the Castel Sant'Angelo before making your way to the Vatican.
And there's more to see there than the Sistine Chapel.
The Vatican is filled with stunning art. Hannah Docter-Loeb
Although the Sistine Chapel was what I'd heard about most, it's not the only thing the Vatican has to offer.
Before entering the sacred room, I weaved through countless others adorned with stunning statues and ornate frescoes.
I also wasn't aware that you can't take pictures in the chapel, so some of these other rooms are great places to snap pics.
Gelato shops are open late.
Giolitti is a famous gelato shop in Rome. Hannah Docter-Loeb
On the first night, I went to Rome's popular gelato shop, Giolitti, around 10:30 p.m.
But I was surprised to see the place is open until midnight.
Perusing other shops, I noticed that many of them are also open into the wee hours of the morning if you're looking for a late-night snack.
Although coffee may be abundant, chai lattes seem to be nonexistent.
I typically drink chai lattes over coffee. Hannah Docter-Loeb
I'm not a huge coffee drinker, but I like to drink chai lattes on occasion. I'll even make them "dirty" with a shot of espresso if I'm about to embark on a day of sightseeing.
But all the coffee shops I walked into informed me that they didn't have them, and a quick Google search affirmed that the drink isn't very common in Rome.
I did see a lot of "American coffee," though, which I was disappointed to learn was just black coffee.
Most pedestrians boldly cross the street without a light.
I'd seen depictions of Rome's busy streets in movies. Hannah Docter-Loeb
I'd heard a bit about the chaotic roads of Rome, but nothing compared to experiencing them for myself.
Despite the turbulent drivers, I learned that cars will often stop for pedestrians, even if there's no light.
It took a bit to get used to, and I definitely had a few standoffs where I made some drivers mad. But by the end of the trip, I found myself instructing other tourists on the street-crossing norms.
Black Friday has found its way to Rome.
I went to Rome in November, just in time for Black Friday. Hannah Docter-Loeb
I'd always thought Black Friday was a solely American phenomenon, especially since it's tied to Thanksgiving.
But during my November trip, I was surprised to see that various shops in Rome seemed to capitalize on the holiday, boasting all sorts of Black Friday sales.
The Colosseum is next to some other equally cool sites.
The Colosseum is one of the biggest tourist attractions in Rome. Hannah Docter-Loeb
As the largest ancient amphitheater, the Colosseum is, understandably, one of Rome's main attractions. But it's right next to some other must-see sites.
Right across are the temples and still-surviving structures of the Roman Forum, which was the center of life in ancient Rome. There's also Palatine Hill, the most central of the city's seven famous hills.
A few blocks away is the Circus Maximus, where ancient Romans used to participate in chariot races.
Hop-on/hop-off tours are actually a good time.
The big buses can be touristy, but they're a great way to see the city. Hannah Docter-Loeb
I saw hop-on/hop-off double-decker tour buses in many different European cities throughout my travels, and I always kind of sneered at them. But because I only had two full days in Rome, I decided it would be the best way to maximize my time.
I got a 48-hour pass for about 26 euros, which meant I could get on and off as much as I wanted in that time period.
On the first day, the bus' cover protected me from what was unfortunately a rainy afternoon in Rome. On the second day, a blistered foot was bothering me on my trek to Circus Maximus from the Colosseum, and the bus almost magically appeared ahead of me.
One thing that disappointed me was that the various stops weren't as close to the landmarks as purported. But it still sped things up.
Rome has a rich Jewish quarter.
I seek out Jewish neighborhoods and sites while traveling. Hannah Docter-Loeb
Throughout my European travels, I've made a point to visit each city's Jewish quarters to connect with my heritage.
I was pleasantly surprised by the Roman Ghetto, which has a beautiful synagogue and ample kosher food options.
I couldn't get everything done in two days.
There's so much to see in Rome. Hannah Docter-Loeb
As soon as I got to Rome, I realized I'd made a mistake by only allowing myself two full days in the city.
Because my first day was rainy, I ended up jam-packing way too much into the second.
I think I really maximized my time — thanks to the hop-on/hop-off tour bus. But I definitely didn't get to see all that I wanted to.
This story was originally published on January 22, 2023, and most recently updated on January 18, 2024.