I went to Japan for the first time and the coolest thing I did was visit a tiny island I'd never heard of filled with experiential art. Take a look around.
Kennedy Hill  Â
The author spent two weeks traveling through central Japan when she visited the country for the first time.Kennedy Hill
- I spent two weeks traveling around Japan through Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka.
- The major cities were amazing, but crowds of tourists made some of my experience feel generic.
Welcome to Naoshima, a Japanese island located in the Seto Inland Sea. By train and ferry, it's about two and a half hours from Osaka.
The island of Naoshima in Japan's Seto Inland Sea. Getty/ImagesTakami Shimura
Sources: Benesse Art Site Naoshima, Japan Guide
Naoshima is one of Japan's 'art islands,' a group of remote islands that are home to numerous contemporary art museums and outdoor installations that blend into the region's stunning landscape.
The Seto Inland Sea. Shutterstock/oku20161225
Source: Matador Network
The art islands project began in the 1980s when Japanese businessman Soichiro Fukutake worked with local leaders to revitalize the islands' cultural status and economic development, according to Forbes.
A view of gardens at the Seto Inland Sea on Naoshima. Getty Images/Eric Lafforgue/Art In All Of Us
Source: Forbes
The region also hosts the Setouchi Triennale, a festival that began in 2010 and promotes new artwork and installations on the islands. The event takes place every three years, most recently in 2022.
A 2019 Setouchi Triennale installation. Shutterstock/gniyoug
Sources: Art Setouchi, Japan Guide
I rode an hour-long bullet train from Osaka to Okayama to meet up with a friend, and we took a 40-minute train to Uno Station in the seaside city of Tamano. From Tamano, we caught a ferry to Naoshima.
The author in Japan (L) and taking ramen on the bullet train from Osaka (R). Kennedy Hill
Sources: Japan Rail Pass, Okayama, Shikoku Kisen
After docking on the island at Port Miyanoura, one of two ferry ports, I was immediately greeted by the "Red Pumpkin" sculpture from Yayoi Kusama, a contemporary Japanese artist known for her polka-dot designs.
The "Red Pumpkin" sculpture by Yayoi Kusama. Kennedy Hill
From the pumpkin and dock, I could also see a nearby, massive steel-net structure by architect Sou Fujimoto, which I was able to climb inside.
The author poses in a sculpture by architect Sou Fujimoto. Kennedy Hill
Source: Architect Magazine
I saw a few people waiting to take pictures of the pumpkin, but compared to the crowds I'd seen a few days before in Tokyo, it felt like a ghost town. At the visitor's center near the dock, I grabbed a free brochure with a map of the island and attractions.
A view of the beach in Naoshima. Kennedy Hill
Naoshima is only about 5.5 square miles. I saw other visitors riding bikes, and there was a public bus system, but my friend and I decided we felt like walking, and spent roughly two hours making our way around the island.
People riding bikes in Naoshima. Kennedy Hill
The map showed a circular route that traveled through all of the island's outdoor installations and museums. Following this route, I headed to the northern end of the island and the town of Honmura.
The town of Honmura. Kennedy Hill
I saw hostels, mom-and-pop restaurants, and installations scattered throughout Honmura's neighborhoods.
Mom-and-pop storefronts in Honmura. Kennedy Hill
One of my favorite displays in Honmura was a two-story metalwork structure. It was part of the Art House Project, where local artists transformed abandoned buildings into 3D artworks. The project's website says the building, called Haisha, was once a dentist's office before being made into an exhibit.
Haisha was once a dentist's home. Kennedy Hill
Sources: Tripadvisor, Benesse Art Site Naoshima
Another building in Honmura, called Kadoya, was also transformed into an exhibit by the Art House Project, and had lights on the floor that flashed on and off in a coordinated display.
Lights in the building flashed on and off. Kennedy Hill
Source: Benesse Art Site Naoshima
However, the most immersive experience for me in Honmura was an exhibit called Minamidera, which plays with how visitors' eyes adjust to light while walking through an initially pitch-black space.
The author found Minamidera to be the most immersive exhibit. Kennedy Hill
Source: Benesse Art Site Naoshima
Outside of the formal exhibits, I saw pops of street art around the island, like colorful figures on the sides of several buildings.
Naoshima also has colorful street art. Kennedy Hill
Between stops at different installations throughout Naoshima, my friend and I also marveled at temples with historic architecture.
The author spent time visiting the Gokuraku-ji Temple. Kennedy Hill
Source: Tripadvisor
Since I visited in mid-March around the beginning of cherry blossom season, I saw some trees near Gokuraku-ji Temple in bloom. Though, not as many as I saw a few days earlier in Tokyo's Ueno Park, the site of a large cherry blossom festival.
The author visited during cherry blossom season. Kennedy Hill
Most of the attractions I saw on the south side of the island were part of the Benesse Art Site, a seaside property with a resort and museums that provided free shuttle buses between multiple galleries.
The Benesse Art Site is a resort with museums. Kennedy Hill
A path along the beach leading to the Benesse House hotel was lined with whimsical animal sculptures that appeared to double as plant holders. I also walked by a gift shop, spa, and restaurant.
Colorful animal sculptures holding plants along a path through the Benesse Art Site. Kennedy Hill
After passing the first colorful sculptures, I continued along the path through the property and saw more minimalist, geometric structures.
Minimalist outdoor sculptures on Naoshima. Kennedy Hill
We wrapped up our day at the Lee Ufan Museum, where we saw works by the contemporary Korean artist it's named after, and it appeared mostly empty of tourists. It felt peaceful, especially after visiting crowded museums in Japan's larger cities.
In the Lee Ufan museum. Kennedy Hill
Source: Benesse Art Site Naoshima
Before boarding our return ferry to Tamano, we took photos with Yayoi Kusama's "Yellow Pumpkin," a replica of the original sculpture that was swept away by a typhoon in 2021.
The author posing with the "Yellow Pumpkin" sculpture by Yayoi Kusama. Kennedy Hill
Source: CNN
I didn't have time to see all of Naoshima, but this day trip was still the highlight of my time in Japan. After feeling overwhelmed in some of Japan's larger cities, it was a welcome relief to absorb the stillness of this artistic island.
The author says visiting Naoshima was the highlight of her trip to Japan. Kennedy Hill
Next time though, I'd stay for a weekend to visit the other art islands surrounding Naoshima, and maybe even get a massage at the Benesse House Spa.
The Benesse House hotel on Naoshima. Hotel Benesse House
Source: Bennesse Art Site Naoshima
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