I visited a tiny, car-free Scottish isle with a population of 60. It was stunning but island life just isn't for me.
Mikhaila Friel
- My partner and I visited Easdale, a tiny island in Scotland with 60 residents.
- The car-free island is accessible by ferry and has one pub and no grocery store.
My partner and I recently spent an evening on Easdale, a tiny island in Scotland with 60 residents.
Easdale is the smallest permanently inhabited island in the Inner Hebrides of Scotland, according to its website.
The car-free island is located on Scotland's west coast and has 60 residents. Before visiting at the end of September, I spoke to two residents who told me that Easdale is known for its low crime rate and unpredictable weather.
I was born and raised in Glasgow, Scotland's largest city, and until recently I had little knowledge or experience of island life. So I was excited to learn what it would be like to experience a tiny and beautiful island community — a massive change of pace from city life.
In order to get to Easdale, we had to travel to another island.
Since Easdale has no vehicle access, my partner and I first had to drive three hours from Glasgow to the island of Seil, where we could get the ferry to Easdale.
Seil is connected to the mainland by Clachan Bridge, which is around 200 years old and is known as "Bridge over the Atlantic," according to Easdale's website. The isle of Seil appears to be mostly residential; we passed batches of houses as we made our way to the pier.
My partner and I were the only passengers on the ferry on Sunday evening.
Before our visit, I had spoken to island residents who told me that there are regular daily services to and from Easdale on a small ferry which can hold 10 passengers.
When we arrived at the pier, a ferry was already waiting to take us to the island. My partner and I were the only passengers in addition to the two ferrymen.
Our round-trip tickets cost £2.20, or around $2.77, per person.
The journey took just three minutes.
From Seil, it's a very short ferry ride. Easdale's website says it's just 200 meters — approximately 656 feet — from the neighboring isle.
It was raining and windy, and the seats were drenched. I felt fortunate that I had remembered to pack my waterproof jacket since we were exposed to the elements on the open ferry.
On arrival, the first thing I noticed was a bunch of wheelbarrows, which residents use instead of cars.
When we got off the ferry, I noticed at least 10 wheelbarrows lined up on the grass, which made me chuckle.
It reminded me of a conversation I had with local Easdale artist Lisa McQueenie ahead of my visit. McQueenie told me that people who live on the island use wheelbarrows to transport their shopping from the ferry to their homes because there are no cars or grocery stores on the island.
The island was beautiful even though the weather was dull.
The island is known for its natural scenery. Florence and the Machine filmed the music video for the band's single, "Queen of Peace," on Easdale in 2015, as the Press and Journal reported in 2016. Magnificent views of the sea bounding against rocks at one of the island's lookout points can be seen in the video.
During my visit, the sky was gray and the wind rattled in my ears. But still, I found myself in awe when taking in the pops of color on Easdale, from the bright green of the grass to the charming, cream cottages.
We found the Puffer Bar, Easdale's only cafe and pub.
The family-owned Puffer Bar and Cafe are in the same building and located just a short walk from where the ferry dropped us off.
Since the nearby Seil is mostly residential, this is one of the only pubs for miles. The closest major town on the mainland, Oban, is around a 35-minute drive to Seil.
The pub was surprisingly full when we arrived shortly after 5 p.m.
We arrived on Easdale a couple of hours after the World Stone Skimming Championships took place on the island on September 24.
The championships began in 1983, according to the organizers, and it usually brings in between 600 and 900 visitors from across the world, according to Easdale resident Donald Melville, who I spoke with before my visit.
We unfortunately weren't able to get to Easdale in time to watch the championships due to other travel arrangements. But it looked like the after-party was in full swing, as the Puffer Bar was packed with people.
I spoke with one local who said most of the competitors had gone home and that it was mostly residents left in the pub. I was shocked by this — it seemed that almost the entire island was there.
Locals told me that the island is the best place to live because of its people.
One local told me he had been a resident of Easdale for two years and said the best thing about the island is the people who live there. He said that residents band together to help newcomers move in and that everyone makes an effort to get to know them.
He added that he loves the atmosphere at the end of the night after the last ferry has been and gone. He said it's peaceful to know that "nobody is coming onto the island and nobody is going for the night."
I failed to hide my shock at his confession.
"But what if there's an emergency and there's no way for you to leave? Isn't that a bit scary?" I asked.
"It's more likely that something scary would happen out there," he laughed, referencing the mainland.
After enjoying a soft drink at the pub, we walked around the island.
There was a small play park, which makes sense given that 10 of Easdale's residents are children, the same local from the pub told me. He added that the oldest person on the island is in their 90s.
While on our walk, I noticed a free basket of potatoes and vegetables for residents.
Easdale's sense of community was apparent in the pub, but this free basket solidified the generosity among the islanders.
Some people had wheelbarrows in their garden or at their front door.
I thought the wheelbarrows were quirky and cute, but I never would have guessed that people used them to transport groceries from the ferry if I hadn't been told. It's a smart idea, but I can also imagine how inconvenient it could be for residents since there are no grocery shops on Easdale.
We noticed three homes with "for sale" signs in front of them.
The properties are listed on Rightmove, with prices ranging from £160,000 (around $193,000) to £320,000 (around $386,000).
Traces of Easdale's history could be seen in the slate throughout the island.
Easdale dominated Scotland's slate industry for more than three centuries and at one time had a population of 500 people. But in 1881, a massive storm caused flooding in the area that damaged the quarries, according to Canmore, the National Record of the Historic Environment.
The damage had a devastating impact on Easdale's slate industry, and over the years the population dwindled.
This unique-looking house was surrounded by slate.
As we walked across the island, piles of slate were visible at looking points, on driveways, and we could also see that slate had been used to build some of the homes.
As we continued on our journey, we spotted this sign directing us to a lookout point.
Handmade signs were scattered throughout the island for visitors. I thought this was heartwarming, as it showed residents had made an effort to make Easdale easy to navigate for all.
The rain got worse as we searched for the lookout point.
The rain battered down, and at this point I wished I had brought more waterproof clothing (not just my jacket) as my jeans were soaked.
The experience made me realize that I'd find it difficult to live here in the winter. On a cold evening in the city, there's plenty to do indoors, like dining at your favorite restaurant, bowling, or going to the cinema.
Of course, Easdale has a pub and a cafe, in addition to a museum and a small art gallery which are open during the day. But after a while, I imagine the lack of variety could get old.
The views were incredible, but by the end of the visit I was glad to be heading back to the city.
At the viewpoint, I found myself reflecting on my visit to Easdale. I thoroughly enjoyed the trip because of the beautiful scenery and the kind locals we met along the way.
On one hand, I can envision living on an island like this because of its community feel. It's nice to imagine being friends with all of your neighbors, something which isn't as typical in Glasgow.
But on the other hand, I couldn't imagine visiting the same pub every weekend. While I can see the appeal for some, personally, I'd find the lack of variety difficult to get used to, especially since I'm spoiled for choice in my city.
While I'm still finding new things to love about Glasgow after living there for my entire life, it took me a total of around 20 minutes to walk around Easdale.
Don't get me wrong — the island is stunning. But I'm not sure the visual appeal would be enough to keep me occupied for more than a couple of hours, especially when it's cold outside.
Overall, I found that island life isn't for me. But Easdale was certainly worth visiting.
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