I visited a ghost town in the middle of Utah's desert that was once an oasis to Hawaiian settlers. Take a look around.

Monica HumphriesAug 3, 2022, 14:36 IST

The author at the entrance to Iosepa, a ghost town outside of Salt Lake City, Utah.Monica Humphries/Insider

In 1889, 46 Hawaiian settlers moved to Salt Lake City, Utah, to join the Mormon Church.
After facing discrimination, they relocated to the desert where they built a town called Iosepa.

Ghost towns fascinate me. I've wandered through one in Colorado that was once home to a historic Black agricultural community and I've trekked to the desert in Moab, Utah, to explore an abandoned religious colony built to withstand the apocalypse.

Home of Truth ghost town outside of Moab, Utah.Monica Humphries/Insider

Ghost towns fascinate me. I've wandered through one in Colorado that was once home to a historic Black agricultural community and I've trekked to the desert in Moab, Utah, to explore an abandoned religious colony built to withstand the apocalypse.

So when I read about a ghost town outside of Salt Lake City, Utah, built to be an oasis for Hawaiian followers of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, widely known as Mormons, I was intrigued.

A pinpoint indicates Iosepa on a map.Google Maps

So when I read about a ghost town outside of Salt Lake City, Utah, built to be an oasis for Hawaiian followers of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, widely known as Mormons, I was intrigued.

In the 1880s, a group of 46 Islanders left their homes to travel to Utah for religious reasons, according to Atlas Obscura. They were converts of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints and relocated to be near the church's Salt Lake City temple.

One of the buildings for The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints in Salt Lake City, Utah.Monica Humphries/Insider

In the 1880s, a group of 46 Islanders left their homes to travel to Utah for religious reasons, according to Atlas Obscura. They were converts of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints and relocated to be near the church's Salt Lake City temple.

But they found Salt Lake City at the time was not a welcoming place. They faced discrimination over "cultural differences and unwarranted fear of leprosy" from the white majority, according to an article in the Utah Historical Quarterly. The group was pushed out of Salt Lake and into the desert.

An image of Salt Lake City from 1895.The Print Collector/Getty Images

But they found Salt Lake City at the time was not a welcoming place. They faced discrimination over "cultural differences and unwarranted fear of leprosy" from the white majority, according to an article in the Utah Historical Quarterly. The group was pushed out of Salt Lake and into the desert.

The Islanders relocated to the desert, Atlas Obscura reported, where they built roads with names like "Honolulu" and "Kula," planted trees, and created a reservoir in the middle of their arid environment.

The Iosepa ghost town outside of Salt Lake City, Utah.Monica Humphries/Insider

The Islanders relocated to the desert, Atlas Obscura reported, where they built roads with names like "Honolulu" and "Kula," planted trees, and created a reservoir in the middle of their arid environment.

Then, less than 30 years later, a Latter-day Saint temple was being built in Oahu, Hawaii. The majority of the group reportedly abandoned Iosepa to return home to help complete the temple.

The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints Laie Hawaii Temple located on Oahu, Hawaii.Molly NZ/Shutterstock

Then, less than 30 years later, a Latter-day Saint temple was being built in Oahu, Hawaii. The majority of the group reportedly abandoned Iosepa to return home to help complete the temple.

Earlier this year, I visited Salt Lake and spent one morning driving 60 miles southwest to discover the abandoned town and the story behind it.

The author at the entrance to Iosepa, a ghost town outside of Salt Lake City, Utah.Monica Humphries/Insider

I exited I-80 and hopped on a two-lane state highway heading into what's known as Skull Valley. There, a rusty sign was the only indicator that I was heading to the right place.

A small, rusty sign indicates visitors are on the right path to Iosepa.Monica Humphries/Insider

I exited I-80 and hopped on a two-lane state highway heading into what's known as Skull Valley. There, a rusty sign was the only indicator that I was heading to the right place.

About 15 miles later, I started to understand why church leaders chose this area. It felt surprisingly tropical for Utah with the sun glittering off the lush, green mountains. For a moment, I forgot I was in a place named Skull Valley.

The view from the state highway heading to the ghost town of Iosepa.Monica Humphries/Insider

About 15 miles later, I started to understand why church leaders chose this area. It felt surprisingly tropical for Utah with the sun glittering off the lush, green mountains. For a moment, I forgot I was in a place named Skull Valley.

Finally, "Aloha Iosepa" in bright-orange letters on a cobalt-blue sign came into view.

The sign for the entrance to Iosepa.Monica Humphries/Insider

The name Iosepa is Hawaiian for Joseph, which was a reference to Joseph F. Smith, who was the then-president of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints.

The sixth President of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints Joseph F. Smith circa 1918.Paul Thompson/FPG/Getty Images

I passed through a yellow gate and caught my first glimpse of Iosepa. Forty-six Polynesians formed the original community, according to the Utah Division of State History, though it wasn't their ideal location.

The view of Iosepa from a nearby hill.Monica Humphries/Insider

I passed through a yellow gate and caught my first glimpse of Iosepa. Forty-six Polynesians formed the original community, according to the Utah Division of State History, though it wasn't their ideal location.

The settlers originally moved to Salt Lake City, where they were discriminated against. In 1889, Church leaders purchased a 1,920-acre remote ranch for the group and relocated them by wagon to Skull Valley, Utah Historical Quarterly reports.

Latter-Day Saint travel by wagon to Echo Canyon, Utah, in 1870. (Iosepa settlers not pictured.)Sepia Times/Universal Images Group/Getty Images

The settlers originally moved to Salt Lake City, where they were discriminated against. In 1889, Church leaders purchased a 1,920-acre remote ranch for the group and relocated them by wagon to Skull Valley, Utah Historical Quarterly reports.

Once in their new settlement, the group maintained their Hawaiian language, culture, and traditions as best they could in the desert, the Utah Historical Quarterly reported. They harvested algae from a nearby lake, which served as a substitute for seaweed in traditional dishes, and spoke their native language at church services.

Rusty cooking woks at Iosepa.Monica Humphries/Insider

Once in their new settlement, the group maintained their Hawaiian language, culture, and traditions as best they could in the desert, the Utah Historical Quarterly reported. They harvested algae from a nearby lake, which served as a substitute for seaweed in traditional dishes, and spoke their native language at church services.

According to Utah Humanities, they built streets, constructed homes, and grew to 228 people. While they were largely successful, desert life wasn't easy. Disease and crop failure set them back, and, when the first Mormon temple was planned in Hawaii, the majority of the settlers returned home, abandoning Iosepa by 1917.

A rusting sign at the Iosepa settlement.Monica Humphries/Insider

According to Utah Humanities, they built streets, constructed homes, and grew to 228 people. While they were largely successful, desert life wasn't easy. Disease and crop failure set them back, and, when the first Mormon temple was planned in Hawaii, the majority of the settlers returned home, abandoning Iosepa by 1917.

Today, there isn't much left of the community that once lived here. A cemetery remains, with graves dated decades later than when the town was abandoned.

The Iosepa cemetery.Monica Humphries/Insider

At the front of the cemetery is a historical memorial for Iosepa.

A historical memorial is at the front of the ghost town's cemetery.Monica Humphries/Insider

I wandered through the cemetery and spotted headstones dating as far back as 1900 and up until 2019.

Side-by-side images of a more recent and older headstone at the Iosepa cemetery.Monica Humphries/Insider

Also on the property is a modern pavilion with a stage, picnic tables, and a basketball court, which Iosepa's descendants use for celebrations and reunions.

The main structure on the property is a much more modern pavilion.Monica Humphries/Insider

Walking around the property felt like an Easter egg hunt, I thought, as I discovered relics from the original settlement.

An old oven on the property.Monica Humphries/Insider

And while the mountains seemed lush from a distance, up close, I realized it was dry and hot. I couldn't imagine surviving Utah's hot summers and brutal winters in Skull Valley.

The cemetery was dry and arid.Monica Humphries/Insider

And while the mountains seemed lush from a distance, up close, I realized it was dry and hot. I couldn't imagine surviving Utah's hot summers and brutal winters in Skull Valley.

While there are no permanent residents, hundreds of native Pacific Islanders visit Iosepa on Memorial Day weekend for a three-day luau in the desert to celebrate and commemorate their ancestors, according to the Utah Division of State History.

A bulletin with old photos from previous luaus.Monica Humphries/Insider

While there are no permanent residents, hundreds of native Pacific Islanders visit Iosepa on Memorial Day weekend for a three-day luau in the desert to celebrate and commemorate their ancestors, according to the Utah Division of State History.

From leis and kukui nut necklaces on gravestones to sun-bleached photos from past reunions, life and love for Iosepa are still present across the entire property.

A decorated gravesite at Iosepa.Monica Humphries/Insider

I reflected on the story of the 46 settlers and was amazed that a group believed in something strongly enough to leave their home and families in exchange for a new life in the desert. Their commitment and dedication, I thought, was admirable.

The Iosepa cemetery.Monica Humphries/Insider

I reflected on the story of the 46 settlers and was amazed that a group believed in something strongly enough to leave their home and families in exchange for a new life in the desert. Their commitment and dedication, I thought, was admirable.

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I visited a ghost town in the middle of Utah's desert that was once an oasis to Hawaiian settlers. Take a look around.

Ghost towns fascinate me. I've wandered through one in Colorado that was once home to a historic Black agricultural community and I've trekked to the desert in Moab, Utah, to explore an abandoned religious colony built to withstand the apocalypse.

So when I read about a ghost town outside of Salt Lake City, Utah, built to be an oasis for Hawaiian followers of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, widely known as Mormons, I was intrigued.

In the 1880s, a group of 46 Islanders left their homes to travel to Utah for religious reasons, according to Atlas Obscura. They were converts of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints and relocated to be near the church's Salt Lake City temple.

But they found Salt Lake City at the time was not a welcoming place. They faced discrimination over "cultural differences and unwarranted fear of leprosy" from the white majority, according to an article in the Utah Historical Quarterly. The group was pushed out of Salt Lake and into the desert.

The Islanders relocated to the desert, Atlas Obscura reported, where they built roads with names like "Honolulu" and "Kula," planted trees, and created a reservoir in the middle of their arid environment.

Then, less than 30 years later, a Latter-day Saint temple was being built in Oahu, Hawaii. The majority of the group reportedly abandoned Iosepa to return home to help complete the temple.

Earlier this year, I visited Salt Lake and spent one morning driving 60 miles southwest to discover the abandoned town and the story behind it.

I exited I-80 and hopped on a two-lane state highway heading into what's known as Skull Valley. There, a rusty sign was the only indicator that I was heading to the right place.

About 15 miles later, I started to understand why church leaders chose this area. It felt surprisingly tropical for Utah with the sun glittering off the lush, green mountains. For a moment, I forgot I was in a place named Skull Valley.

Finally, "Aloha Iosepa" in bright-orange letters on a cobalt-blue sign came into view.

The name Iosepa is Hawaiian for Joseph, which was a reference to Joseph F. Smith, who was the then-president of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints.

I passed through a yellow gate and caught my first glimpse of Iosepa. Forty-six Polynesians formed the original community, according to the Utah Division of State History, though it wasn't their ideal location.

The settlers originally moved to Salt Lake City, where they were discriminated against. In 1889, Church leaders purchased a 1,920-acre remote ranch for the group and relocated them by wagon to Skull Valley, Utah Historical Quarterly reports.

Today, there isn't much left of the community that once lived here. A cemetery remains, with graves dated decades later than when the town was abandoned.

At the front of the cemetery is a historical memorial for Iosepa.

I wandered through the cemetery and spotted headstones dating as far back as 1900 and up until 2019.

Also on the property is a modern pavilion with a stage, picnic tables, and a basketball court, which Iosepa's descendants use for celebrations and reunions.

Walking around the property felt like an Easter egg hunt, I thought, as I discovered relics from the original settlement.

And while the mountains seemed lush from a distance, up close, I realized it was dry and hot. I couldn't imagine surviving Utah's hot summers and brutal winters in Skull Valley.

While there are no permanent residents, hundreds of native Pacific Islanders visit Iosepa on Memorial Day weekend for a three-day luau in the desert to celebrate and commemorate their ancestors, according to the Utah Division of State History.

From leis and kukui nut necklaces on gravestones to sun-bleached photos from past reunions, life and love for Iosepa are still present across the entire property.

I reflected on the story of the 46 settlers and was amazed that a group believed in something strongly enough to leave their home and families in exchange for a new life in the desert. Their commitment and dedication, I thought, was admirable.