I took a 24-hour bus ride from Vietnam to Laos. It was uncomfortable but only cost $45, and more memorable than flying.
Hannah Shewan Stevens
- I took a 24-hour bus between Vietnam and Laos instead of a one-hour flight to save money.
- I paid $45 for a one-way ride with broken toilets, a long border crossing, and very little sleep.
I took a 24-hour bus ride from Hanoi, Vietnam, to Vientiane, Laos. I think it's the best way to save money while traveling between the two countries.
In April 2022, I left the United Kingdom to travel full-time as a digital nomad in South East Asia. Ten months and five countries later, I regularly hop between countries whenever my current tourist visa runs out.
After spending my third month exploring Vietnam, I decided to move on to Laos. I looked into flying there, but flights to one of Laos' two airports — located in the capital, Vientiane, and Luang Prabang — cost upwards of $200 for a one-hour flight, based on my research on Skyscanner.
Since I keep to a strict budget to maintain my lifestyle, I decided to take a one-way bus to Laos instead, even though the trip was scheduled to take 24 hours.
It cost me just $45 and though uncomfortable at times, I have no regrets. In fact, I plan to choose it again next time I'm faced with a similar travel choice. Here's what my journey was like.
Riding a bus for 24 hours is far cheaper than flying.
For this trip, I paid $45 for a one-way ticket from Hanoi, Vietnam, to Vientiane, Laos, that included transport from the third-party ticket office in central Hanoi to the bus station where I was to depart on a ride with air-conditioning, an onboard toilet, Wi-Fi, and two rest stops.
Based on my research, ticket prices vary based on how far in advance you book and whether you purchase through a third-party seller like I did, or directly through the bus company.
Unaware I could save money by doing the latter, I booked my ticket two days in advance with Bookaway, a third-party travel site I was familiar with.
It was only after I arrived at the bus station that I learned that buying the ticket directly from the bus office at Hanoi Nuoc Ngam Station was an option, and would drop the ticket price to $35.
On this bus, there is only one fare type — economy — and no option to reserve a specific seat. The price includes one large suitcase to store under the bus, and passengers may bring one small rucksack-sized bag to be stored at your seat.
There is also only one bus available on this route per day and it leaves at 6 p.m., seven days a week, and is operated by HXT VAN TAI 277.
My email confirmation stated that I should first arrive at the third-party ticket office three hours before the bus was due to depart.
Rather than head straight to the bus station, I first went to the third-party ticket office listed on my confirmation. From there, I would be given a transfer to the bus station, which was included in the price of the bus ride.
I found the ticket office to be mostly empty, with just a few travelers waiting for their transfer to the bus station.
I met my travel companion who was taking the trip with me, and we waited outside the office for 10 minutes until the ticket seller took us to the bus depot by car along with one other passenger.
Travelers have the option of going directly to Hanoi Nuoc Ngam Station, however, I chose not to since it was 90 minutes away by car and I didn't want to cover the cost of transport there from the city center.
I went to the ticket counter to exchange my email voucher for a bus ticket.
Arriving to the bus station at 4:30 p.m., I thought it seemed quiet despite it being so close to rush hour.
Once there, I exchanged my email ticket confirmation for a physical ticket, and was then directed upstairs for boarding.
I waited for about an hour in a small area with a few benches, a cafe, and toilets available.
Since I already stocked up on food and water for the journey, I picked a spot to stand in, and waited for departure.
The bus was ready to board 30 minutes before departure.
A half hour before our 6 p.m. scheduled departure, it was time to board the bus, and I was guided by an attendant to stow away my large suitcase.
I thought it was surprising that nobody checked my ticket or passport before taking my luggage.
My documents were only checked right before I boarded the bus.
At that time, I was told to remove my shoes and place them in a plastic bag upon entering the bus. I learned this is a standard practice for overnight buses in Vietnam because across Asia, wearing shoes indoors is considered rude as outside shoes are generally seen as unclean.
Onboard, the bus was split into three rows of double-decker seats, which could be kept fully upright or reclined to a 45-degree angle.
I boarded the bus to find my randomly-assigned seat, and was told by the driver that no switches were permitted, even if another seat was empty.
The attendant checked my ticket number and showed me to my seat, a lower bunk.
As I settled in and looked around, I noticed that the other passengers on the bus were a mix of tourists from around the world, and Vietnamese and Laotian locals.
Almost every seat was taken, with the exception of those at the back, which were reserved for the drivers who took turns at the wheel.
At the back of the bus was also a small private toilet. When I went to check it out I noticed that it did not have a light, nor did it provide toilet paper, running water, or soap.
I thought my seat was fairly large but as a 5-foot, 8-inch-tall person, it could have been bigger.
My Vietnamese night bus came with bunk-style seating with two layers of seats stacked above each other.
I thought the upper bunks appeared to be less comfortable because I noticed passengers seemed to move around more easily on tight bends. On the lower bunks, where I sat, the twists and turns of the road did not seem to be felt as intensely, so I thought this made them slightly more desirable.
My window seat came with an air conditioner control, a pillow, a blanket, a seatbelt, and a curtain to block light from outside. I thought my seat was comfortable when fully reclined with enough padding and room to stretch out, though I still felt a bit cramped with my backpack tucked between my legs.
After we set off, I put my backpack in the aisle for more space to stretch out, and the driver did not seem to mind as long as I moved it when people needed to get by, and kept it on the seat during stops.
There was also a middle row of seats, though they appeared to have less legroom since they were positioned near gaps in the aisles meant for passengers to cross between rows of seats.
The bus left on time at 6 p.m. and the first leg of the journey took approximately three and a half hours until the first rest stop.
After we departed, I talked to other travelers on the bus, discussing previous adventures and making plans for further travel within Laos.
After roughly three and a half hours, we arrived at our first rest stop at 9:30 p.m. The driver gave everyone slippers to wear from a communal basket so we wouldn't have to take our shoes out of the plastic bags they were stored away in.
Due to the language barrier, our driver did not communicate how much time we had, but another traveler who had taken the journey before told me we'd have about 20 minutes. The rest stop had a small food hall selling hot noodle soup with a shop to buy snacks and drinks.
Since I already ate, I got out to stretch my legs and use the toilet. I thought it appeared dirty, but was glad to see it had toilet paper.
After reboarding the bus, we drove until we arrived at the Laos border four and a half hours later.
Once we were all back on the bus, the driver turned off the lights.
None of the seats came with personal lights, and I noticed that passengers instead lit up their devices and obeyed an unspoken agreement to be quiet for those choosing to sleep.
We then drove for another four and a half hours until we arrived at the Lao-Bảo border, which is located on the west side of central Vietnam, at 2 a.m.
I was surprised to learn that the border crossing did not open until 7 a.m., and the bus was to park and wait until that time. Fellow passengers told me it was so the drivers and passengers can sleep, and arriving early meant our bus was the first to cross the border.
I saw many passengers sleep at this time, as the stillness of the bus allowed for rest. The doors were kept open though, allowing people to deboard and get some air if they wished.
I couldn't sleep, so I took a walk outside to pass the time.
When we arrived at the border, we parked on a long, dirt road leading to the crossing to join a queue of lorries and buses. I could not sleep, and instead exited the bus to get some fresh air and explore the area between 2 a.m. and 3 a.m.
I watched as other night buses arrived to join the line that had formed behind us, and thought the area was eerily quiet. All the nearby buildings and sites appeared to be empty, and there were dusty fields as far as I could see.
I was the only person who got off the bus, and I walked up and down the road in my bus slippers listening to music to pass the time.
At 3 a.m., I boarded the bus again. Still unable to sleep, I spent the last three hours reading on my Kindle.
At 6 a.m., the driver pulled up to the border and told everyone to get off the bus.
At this time, we were not given any information, except to stay off the bus until after the border crossing opened.
We were not given our shoes either, so I once again wore my bus slippers.
A small cafe in front of the gate guarding the Vietnamese border sold snacks and hot food and I tried to buy a Vietnamese banh mi sandwich, but they sold out, so I drank some water and waited.
The cafe had more grim-looking toilets, but I thought they were a welcome sight since the lone toilet on the bus had gotten blocked and begun to smell in the early morning hours.
Gathering with my fellow travelers, I passed the time by playing with a puppy who belonged to one of the border guards.
At 7 a.m., a guard came to check our passports and led us through a pedestrian gate to access the Vietnamese immigration office.
The Vietnamese border crossing appeared to be empty.
As we approached the Vietnamese immigration office, I followed the locals and found a series of small kiosk offices. The building had a few benches around and was air-conditioned, but no one was there.
After looking around the rest of the building and finding no one, I formed the start of a queue, ready for when they arrived.
When the border agent arrived, I had to pay a fee for an exit stamp for my passport.
A short time later, a border guard arrived and I handed my passport over. The guard asked for a 50,000 Vietnamese dong to get my Vietnam exit stamp and move forward.
I was not told about this fee beforehand and after asking about it, a border guard told me the fee covered staff overtime because we were crossing on a Sunday.
I later spoke with more border guards and other travelers who took the same route, and discovered that everyone crossing the border pays this fee, regardless of the day of the week.
I saw other passengers who tried to refuse payment, but the guards would not acquiesce and ultimately, everyone in the queue paid the fee to get through the border.
I thought it was a slightly intimidating experience, but I got out the other side within 20 minutes.
After going through Vietnamese border control, I walked about a mile down the road to Laos border control in my bus slippers.
We were not permitted to get back on the bus until after Laos border control, which was located about a mile down a rocky road.
When I reached the next immigration office, I filled out an entry form and paid a fee of 8,000 Laotian kip to get my passport stamped.
Once I got my entry stamp, I waited for the rest of our group to get theirs before walking through the last stage of Laos border control and reboarding the bus.
The last stage of the journey started smoothly but I thought it got progressively more uncomfortable as we neared the end.
Back on the bus, I thought the next two hours went smoothly and I napped on and off.
But later, during our 18th hour on the road, the toilet at the back of the bus got more blocked and the smell of urine took over. I used the toilet twice during the journey but, once it broke, I decided to hold it.
Then, after another hour's driving, the bus came to a sudden stop when one of the wheels broke.
The driver pulled over in a remote area and recruited some locals to help fix the wheel. I took the opportunity to stretch my legs.
A local man fixed the wheel within 20 minutes, and we set off for the last leg of the journey.
The bus did not stop again until we arrived in Vientiane.
Unable to use the broken toilet, I put on my headphones and slept for most of the last leg to distract myself from needing to pee.
Although my seat felt comfortable for the majority of the ride, the last few hours were painful as my back began to ache and I wished my seat could fully recline.
I drifted in between naps and tried to focus on enjoying the scenery out the window when I was awake.
Exactly 24 hours after departing Hanoi, the bus pulled into the Vientiane bus station.
Other travelers who had already taken the bus ride warned me that the trip can take up to 30 hours with delays, so I was relieved to pull into the station just a few minutes after the scheduled arrival time.
Leaving Hanoi at 6 p.m., we were due to arrive at 6 p.m. the following day. We came to a stop in Vientiane at around 6:05 pm.
Overall, the experience was not without a few challenges. I wished the reclining seats offered more bed-like comfort to ease the pain of being in one position for so long, and I often felt confused about the process for rest stops and border crossings.
However, I though the whole journey was surprisingly enjoyable. I made new friends who helped guide me through the ride, I saw remote parts of Vietnam and Laos that I wouldn't have otherwise seen, and perhaps most importantly, I saved money for amazing activities in Laos, such as a hot air balloon ride.
I am definitely going to visit Laos again, and if my trip warrants it, I will take the overnight bus again. It may be a lot longer than a one-hour flight, but it was an epic journey that I'll never forget.
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