I stumbled upon on a $25 dinner cruise in Bangkok. It was loud, chaotic, and fun — and exactly what the city is about.

Marielle DescalsotaSep 13, 2022, 11:34 IST

Royal Princess Cruise in Bangkok, Thailand.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

Dinner cruises are popular in Bangkok, but I've always written them off as tourist traps.
I hopped on a dinner cruise in late July and found locals celebrating special occasions on board.

Bangkok's river, the Chao Phraya, is one of the lifelines of Thailand. It provides water to farms; hundreds of ships transport goods across it; and locals and tourists take shuttle boats on the river to travel around the city.

Bangkok, Thailand.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

Bangkok's river, the Chao Phraya, is one of the lifelines of Thailand. It provides water to farms; hundreds of ships transport goods across it; and locals and tourists take shuttle boats on the river to travel around the city.

In late July, I spent a couple days in Bangkok on a reporting trip. On a Friday afternoon, I made my way to Asiatique, an open-air mall and pier by the river. It's got a night market, fashion shops, and a carnival, and in the past, it's been one of my favorite hangout spots in the city.

Asiatique in Bangkok, Thailand.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

In late July, I spent a couple days in Bangkok on a reporting trip. On a Friday afternoon, I made my way to Asiatique, an open-air mall and pier by the river. It's got a night market, fashion shops, and a carnival, and in the past, it's been one of my favorite hangout spots in the city.

In the mostly empty mall, I stumbled upon several women selling tickets for a dinner cruise. One woman told me that for 900 baht, or $25, I could see the Wat Arun after dark and enjoy a Thai buffet. I was sold.

Where people can buy dinner cruise tickets.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

In the mostly empty mall, I stumbled upon several women selling tickets for a dinner cruise. One woman told me that for 900 baht, or $25, I could see the Wat Arun after dark and enjoy a Thai buffet. I was sold.

The Royal Princess Cruise, my dinner cruise for the night, arrived at dusk. It was a relatively small ship with an open upper deck. It was glowing in the dark, with strips of blue light running across the exterior. It looked like a souped-up ferry.

Royal Princess Cruise in Bangkok.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

The Royal Princess Cruise, my dinner cruise for the night, arrived at dusk. It was a relatively small ship with an open upper deck. It was glowing in the dark, with strips of blue light running across the exterior. It looked like a souped-up ferry.

A huge crowd formed at the pier. Hundreds of people — parents holding young kids, couples on dates, rowdy groups — were clamoring to get on board.

Crowd waiting to board dinner cruises in Asiatique.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

When I boarded the ship, I realized how underdressed I was: Many locals were dressed to the nines, ready for a night of photos. My all-linen ensemble and sandals were sorely out of place among women in fancy dresses and sky-high heels. The men, meanwhile, kept it casual with T-shirts.

Inside the cruise in Bangkok.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

When I boarded the ship, I realized how underdressed I was: Many locals were dressed to the nines, ready for a night of photos. My all-linen ensemble and sandals were sorely out of place among women in fancy dresses and sky-high heels. The men, meanwhile, kept it casual with T-shirts.

But as a food lover, I knew I made the right choice by boarding the cruise that night. The cruise served an abundant spread of Thai cuisine, and I was starving.

Buffet dinner served on board.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

As soon as the ship took sail, the lines at the buffet grew even longer. People were grabbing tongs and heaping food onto their plates.

People clamoring for food.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

I had kha nom jeen, or rice noodles with curry sauce; pineapple rice with several fried and curried meats; som tum, or spicy papaya salad; and a dessert for dinner. I devoured it all and wanted to go for seconds, but the line just kept growing longer.

What I ate on board.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

I had kha nom jeen, or rice noodles with curry sauce; pineapple rice with several fried and curried meats; som tum, or spicy papaya salad; and a dessert for dinner. I devoured it all and wanted to go for seconds, but the line just kept growing longer.

I had been excited to see the world-famous temples Wat Arun and Wat Pho. However, the entertainer soon announced that the water level was too high up north, so there wouldn't be any temple sightseeing that night.

A church in Bangkok, a predominantly Buddhist city.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

I had been excited to see the world-famous temples Wat Arun and Wat Pho. However, the entertainer soon announced that the water level was too high up north, so there wouldn't be any temple sightseeing that night.

The entertainer for the night sang Thai songs. It felt like we were at a local bar with live bands.

Live entertainment on board.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

When Thai dancers in traditional costumes took to the stage, glistening in the darkness, the cruise started to feel particularly festive. One dancer was dressed as Hanuman, a "monkey king" believed to have god-like powers.

Traditional Thai dancers on board.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

When Thai dancers in traditional costumes took to the stage, glistening in the darkness, the cruise started to feel particularly festive. One dancer was dressed as Hanuman, a "monkey king" believed to have god-like powers.

Downstairs at the indoor dining area, the mood was different. People were much more relaxed, and the buffet lines weren't nearly as long.

The indoor seating area of the cruise.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

The indoor deck felt a private party. A guest joined in on the entertainer's performance, dancing along to her songs, much to the locals' delight.

A patron dancing the night away with the cruise's resident entertainer.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

The dinner cruise was an unexpected but wonderful find. It seemed like a tourist trap at first, but it's actually where locals hang out, celebrating special occasions with loved ones on a budget.

Royal Princess Cruise in Bangkok, Thailand.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

The dinner cruise was an unexpected but wonderful find. It seemed like a tourist trap at first, but it's actually where locals hang out, celebrating special occasions with loved ones on a budget.

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I stumbled upon on a $25 dinner cruise in Bangkok. It was loud, chaotic, and fun &mdash; and exactly what the city is about.

Bangkok's river, the Chao Phraya, is one of the lifelines of Thailand. It provides water to farms; hundreds of ships transport goods across it; and locals and tourists take shuttle boats on the river to travel around the city.

In late July, I spent a couple days in Bangkok on a reporting trip. On a Friday afternoon, I made my way to Asiatique, an open-air mall and pier by the river. It's got a night market, fashion shops, and a carnival, and in the past, it's been one of my favorite hangout spots in the city.

In the mostly empty mall, I stumbled upon several women selling tickets for a dinner cruise. One woman told me that for 900 baht, or $25, I could see the Wat Arun after dark and enjoy a Thai buffet. I was sold.

The Royal Princess Cruise, my dinner cruise for the night, arrived at dusk. It was a relatively small ship with an open upper deck. It was glowing in the dark, with strips of blue light running across the exterior. It looked like a souped-up ferry.

A huge crowd formed at the pier. Hundreds of people — parents holding young kids, couples on dates, rowdy groups — were clamoring to get on board.

When I boarded the ship, I realized how underdressed I was: Many locals were dressed to the nines, ready for a night of photos. My all-linen ensemble and sandals were sorely out of place among women in fancy dresses and sky-high heels. The men, meanwhile, kept it casual with T-shirts.

But as a food lover, I knew I made the right choice by boarding the cruise that night. The cruise served an abundant spread of Thai cuisine, and I was starving.

As soon as the ship took sail, the lines at the buffet grew even longer. People were grabbing tongs and heaping food onto their plates.

I had kha nom jeen, or rice noodles with curry sauce; pineapple rice with several fried and curried meats; som tum, or spicy papaya salad; and a dessert for dinner. I devoured it all and wanted to go for seconds, but the line just kept growing longer.

I had been excited to see the world-famous temples Wat Arun and Wat Pho. However, the entertainer soon announced that the water level was too high up north, so there wouldn't be any temple sightseeing that night.

The entertainer for the night sang Thai songs. It felt like we were at a local bar with live bands.

When Thai dancers in traditional costumes took to the stage, glistening in the darkness, the cruise started to feel particularly festive. One dancer was dressed as Hanuman, a "monkey king" believed to have god-like powers.

Downstairs at the indoor dining area, the mood was different. People were much more relaxed, and the buffet lines weren't nearly as long.

The indoor deck felt a private party. A guest joined in on the entertainer's performance, dancing along to her songs, much to the locals' delight.

The dinner cruise was an unexpected but wonderful find. It seemed like a tourist trap at first, but it's actually where locals hang out, celebrating special occasions with loved ones on a budget.

I stumbled upon on a $25 dinner cruise in Bangkok. It was loud, chaotic, and fun — and exactly what the city is about.