I spent $5,700 to travel to Antarctica on an expedition cruise ship. Here are 9 things I think everyone should know before going.
Taylor Rains
Traveling to AntarcticaTaylor Rains/Insider
- Tourism to Antarctica is booming post-pandemic, with an expected 100,000 people visiting this season.
- I voyaged to the continent on Intrepid Travel’s expedition cruise ship and it was a life-changing experience.
When I first decided I wanted to go to Antarctica, I had no idea where to start.
Standing at the port with the Ocean Endeavour. Taylor Rains/Insider
I knew a few things, like the fact I'd need to travel by ship and leave out of South America, but I was pretty naive to factors like costs and how to pack.
The Ushuaia sign in Argentina. Taylor Rains/Insider
But, after a wild adventure across the infamous Drake Passage and plenty of amazing experiences on my seventh continent, I've learned where I went right, and where I went wrong.
A mountain in Antarctica. Taylor Rains/Insider
Here are the 9 things I think everyone should know before leaving on Intrepid Travel's nearly two-week "Best of Antarctica" voyage.
The Ocean Endeavour in port in Ushuaia, Argentina. Taylor Rains/Insider
1: Yes, it will cost you an arm and a leg to get to Antarctica. But, you can get a cheaper rate if you're willing to share a cabin with a stranger.
The Ocean Endeavour. Taylor Rains/Insider
Because the white desert is so isolated, it takes a lot of time, fuel, and manpower to get there, forcing companies to charge a pretty penny for the once-in-a-lifetime trips.
Leaving Ushuaia. Taylor Rains/Insider
For my nine-day cruise, I paid $5,700 for a triple interior cabin, which came with single beds, one shower, and two random female roommates.
I was in the "quad-room" but it was sold as a triple, and my roommate were lovely and drama-free. And, please excuse the mess, it was a hectic embarkation day. Taylor Rains/Insider
My rate was purchased as a Black Friday sale in November 2019, though I was slapped with a $456 "fuel surcharge" in August 2022 due to rising prices.
The possible fee is in Intrepid’s contract, and it is now included in the posted rates for future Intrepid Antarctic cruises. Taylor Rains/Insider
Rising fuel costs, as well as surging demand, are pushing rates up, with the most expensive cabins — singles and suites — going for $10,000 to $18,000 during Intrepid's 2023/2024 season.
My friend had a room with two twin beds and two berths that folded down, meaning four people could sleep in the cabin. She had no roommates though. Courtesy of Karen Beck
Source: Intrepid Travel
These rooms are private and can be booked by a solo traveler, though rooms with double beds will require an additional single supplement charge.
Ocean Endeavour's owner's suite. Intrepid Travel
Source: Intrepid Travel
According to Intrepid, its twin, triple, and quad rooms are shared, though its Ocean Endeavour only puts three people in its four-person cabin. However, contact the company if you're unsure about your rooming selection.
The layout of the three other triple rooms only had three beds but had two showers. It was a little more narrow than mine, and the closets were smaller. Intrepid Travel
Source: Intrepid Travel
The base rate I paid for the tour included three meals a day, a hotel stay for the night before embarkation, expedition guides, and all the Antarctic sightseeing. But, it wasn't my only expense.
The dining room. Taylor Rains/Insider
I also had to pay about $1,000 total for roundtrip flights from the US to Ushuaia via Buenos Aires…
The view on descent into Ushuaia. Taylor Rains/Insider
…as well as $300 for camping and $150 for snowshoeing. The latter I had to sign up for on the boat, though neither excursion went due to poor weather at the landing sites
The expedition guides showed us how to use the day paddle, snowshoeing, and camping equipment. I had to sign up for camping in advance as spots are limited. Taylor Rains/Insider
The boat has WiFi, but its unavailable more times than not, and it costs $20 for 30 minutes, $50 for 90 minutes, or $100 for 200 minutes. I bought 90 minutes for emergencies.
Penguins on Antarctica. Taylor Rains/Insider
Souvenirs from the boat's onboard shop, as well as alcohol from the bar, were also an additional cost. However, Intrepid allowed us to bring wine and beer for free.
There was no bottle fee in the dining room for wine either. Taylor Rains/Insider
2: You will leave out of southern cities in South America, and getting there isn't always easy.
Standing with the "fin del mundo" sign in Ushuaia. Taylor Rains/Insider
My cruise departed out of Ushuaia, Argentina, which is the world's southern-most city. Some ships leave from other places, like Punta Arenas, Chile, but I will focus on my experience getting in and out of Ushuaia.
A view of the port in Ushuaia. Taylor Rains/Insider
I was booked on flights on Aerolineas Argentinas from Miami to Buenos Aires to Ushuaia, and back the same way. But, the airline changed my return flight from Buenos Aires, not only amending the time, but also the arrival airport.
Inside Aerolineas Argentinas' Boeing 737. A few other carriers like Flybondi and JetSmart also operate the route. Taylor Rains/Insider
Instead of flying into the international airport and easily connecting to my Miami-bound flight, I was re-booked onto a flight to the domestic airport, which is about 45 minutes away by car — and my connection was shortened to just two and a half hours.
BA sign in Buenos Aires. Taylor Rains/Insider
It was a stressful journey home, to say the least, but Aerolineas put me on standby for an earlier flight from Ushuaia to help me out.
My boarding pass for the earlier flight. Taylor Rains/Insider
Although I got lucky, I would not fly out the same day as disembarkation if I were to do it again. Instead, I would fly out the next morning, giving me more time between flights, as my return to Miami left at 11:30 p.m.
My Aerolineas Argentinas plane in Miami. Taylor Rains/Insider
3: You don't need to bring a lot of clothes, but don't forget things like binoculars, hand warmers, sunscreen, and ChapStick.
Taylor Rains/Insider
When checking in at the hotel in Ushuaia, I saw people with several large suitcases and carry-ons, as well as backpacks and camera bags. And that was all for just one or two people.
Our luggage was already in our rooms before we boarded the ship. Taylor Rains/Insider
What I learned is that you can survive with one checked bag, or even just a carry-on and a personal item — which is the route I took.
My 35L Cotopaxi carry on backpack (below) and 20L person item (above). I also only brought a carry-on because of my tight connection in Buenos Aires on the way home. Taylor Rains/Insider
The reason I say to pack light, assuming Antarctica is your only stop on this trip and you don't require extra items for personal reasons, is three-fold.
I understand camera bags can take up a lot of space, so bringing a checked bag is sometimes unavoidable. But, hopefully these tips help you determine what you can leave at home, and give you more packing space! Taylor Rains/Insider
One — heavy jackets and muck boots are included in Intrepid's tour price, and the same goes for most other operators, so you can leave those at home.
The parkas and boots can be stored in assigned lockers in the ship's mud room on deck 4, which is where everyone got ready before going out on the zodiacs. Taylor Rains/Insider
The windproof and waterproof parkas are typically a bright color and will keep you warm off the ship. Intrepid allowed us to keep our Kathmandu puffer, but the parka and boots were for rental only and provided after embarkation.
The branded Kathmandu jacket was black with a 600 synthetic fill. Taylor Rains/Insider
Two — the ship is hot, so you will not need to wear layers on the boat, and only closed-toed shoes are allowed.
The Compass Club stretched the side of deck 6 and is where people spent time reading or socializing. Taylor Rains/Insider
I suggest rotating T-shirts, leggings, and jeans, and only bringing one pair of good tennis shoes. You won't need heels, hiking boots, or sandals, unless, of course, you're spending extra time in another destination before or after Antarctica.
People sitting inside the Nautilus Lounge on embarkation day. Taylor Rains/Insider
Three — laundry onboard the Ocean Endeavour was $39 for a full load of clothes, and some companies offer the service for free.
A laundry bag was left on the side table by my bed with information on the service. For layering, I suggest synthetic or merino wool layers — not cotton. Taylor Rains/Insider
Moreover, Intrepid's tour is in Antarctica for up to four days, so you only need a few layer pieces — especially if they are merino wool, which is anti-odor and can be worn several times before washing.
I packed 7 tops, 5 bottoms, wool socks, gloves, a beanie, a buff, ski goggles, and a medicine kit in my carry-on. My personal item held toiletries, electronics, my water bottle, and a small purse. If I went back, I would leave my sweatshirt and jeans at home. Taylor Rains/Insider
The one thing I regret not bringing is a pair of binoculars as it would've made the sometimes distant wildlife much easier to see. But I'm glad I brought my SPF 40 chapstick and hand warmers, the latter I actually preferred for my boots.
A chinstrap penguin on a small iceberg. Taylor Rains/Insider
4: The Drake Passage is no joke, so do not forget seasickness medicine.
The boat hitting the water after a giant wave in the Drake Passage on the way back to Argentina. Taylor Rains/Insider
Videos on social media over the past few weeks have painted a worrisome picture of the rough sea between South America and Antarctica. And, they aren't too far off.
The waves and snow heading through the Drake Passage. Taylor Rains/Insider
On my trip, 30+ mile per hour gale-force winds and some 15-foot waves rocked the boat back and forth, making it difficult to walk, causing food to fall off tables, and knocking some passengers out of their beds at night.
Glasses falling during a giant wave. Courtesy of Paulina Portillo
The journey through the Drake lasted about two days each way, and the movement made a lot of people seasick. Fortunately, I avoided the nausea thanks to the Scopolamine patches prescribed by my doctor.
The Scopolamine patch goes behind your ear. My doctor instructed me to only use half of the patch, which I put on about three hours before setting sail. It works for three days before needing to switch it out. Taylor Rains/Insider
I didn't experience any side effects from the patch, like blurry vision, though some did. So, I recommend bringing an additional anti-nausea medicine, like Dramamine, but don't use them together.
Day two of sailing through the Drake Passage on the way to Antarctica. Taylor Rains/Insider
5: This is an expedition, so don't expect to drink mojitos by the pool or see Broadway performances in a giant theater.
Most spaces had minimal seating or decor because everything would slide or fall when sailing through the Drake Passage. Taylor Rains/Insider
The Ocean Endeavour is a robust polar ship built for cruises to the Arctic and Antarctic, so it comes with the essentials, like cabins, lounges, and a dining room.
Taylor Rains/Insider
It also has an onboard spa, a gym, a pool, and a hot tub, but that's about as far as the luxuries go. And, as you can imagine, the pool was never open, and the jacuzzi was only available half the time.
View of the aft deck. The pool was on deck 6 while the hot tub was right above it on deck 7. The pool wasn't used due to the cold and winds. Taylor Rains/Insider
There is no casino, no steakhouse or sushi bar, and you can forget about a dance club. But, that doesn't mean you won't feel at home in your tiny Antarctic community.
We enjoyed a champagne toast on the last night of the voyage. Taylor Rains/Insider
The small, 200-person ship made it easy to meet other travelers and socialize. Many people played games in the lounges, while others spent time reading or streaming pre-downloaded movies and TV shows.
Playing cards in the lounge between zodiac rides. Taylor Rains/Insider
Moreover, the tour guides prepared daily science presentations, which covered everything from polar birds and seals to tectonic plates and the history of Antarctic expeditions.
A Southern Ocean bird. Courtesy of H.D. Hunt
Fortunately, I ended up meeting nine other travelers on my first day — some solo and a few in pairs — and we spend the entire trip together. So, don't be worried about going alone as there will be others wanting to make new friends.
My little Antarctic family: (L-R): Erica, me, Emily, Courtney, Paulina, Nastassja, Joanna, Ashley, Harrison, and Hugo. Taylor Rains/Insider
6: You will get wet on the zodiac boats, and it can be a bumpy ride.
Sitting on the zodiac. Taylor Rains/Insider
Once cruise ships arrive in Antarctica, they can't actually dock at any landing site. Instead, a fleet of rubber zodiac boats is used to ferry passengers to and from shore.
Tourists stepping on Antarctica at the tour's first landing site. Taylor Rains/Insider
The boats carry up to 10 people and are operated by expedition guides. Guests will either go to land and walk on the continent, or spend time zipping around just looking at the glaciers, icebergs, and wildlife.
A shot of a zodiac and an iceberg taken by my friend from our zodiac. Courtesy of H.D. Hunt
When in the zodiacs, the weather can change dramatically and rough waves can make the ride a little nerve-wracking. The photos below were taken about 25 minutes apart.
The photo on the left shows sunny skies and we could see the mountains around us. The photo on the right is blizzard conditions with clouds blocking the scenery. Courtesy of H.D. Hunt
Considering you can have sunny skies one minute and blizzard conditions the next, you need to be prepared to get wet. Intrepid required us to bring waterproof pants — I went with REI — and those that didn't could buy some onboard.
Two of my friends cuddled for warmth as we made our way back to the ship. If you think you'll be cold, then don't hesitate to wear an extra layer. You can always take it off. Taylor Rains/Insider
While the zodiac is really fun, unfortunately, there have been a few deaths this season due to people falling off.
Getting off the zodiac during bad weather. Taylor Rains/Insider
Source: Travel Weekly
With that said, it is extremely important to use care when getting on and off the zodiacs — don't be afraid to take assistance from your guides — and only stand when given permission.
On of my Antarctic buds, Ashley, standing on the zodiac after being given permission by our guide. I'm next to her waving. Courtesy of Karen Beck
7: There are strict rules to follow when stepping on Antarctica.
Our first Antarctica landing. Taylor Rains/Insider
According to the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators, which encourages responsible travel to the continent, 100 people from a single vessel can be on each landing at one time.
Our first Antarctica landing. Taylor Rains/Insider
This means our 200-person boat broke up landings into groups. If you make it to shore, be aware that you cannot let anything touch the ice, except for your boots and walking sticks.
We saw a whale while cruising around Antarctica on a zodiac. Taylor Rains/Insider
This is to prevent the spread of the avian flu that has been impacting some bird populations, and IAATO worries it could reach the Antarctic penguin populations.
Taylor Rains/Insider
All guests were instructed to sterilize their boots and trekking poles before leaving the ship. Moreover, we were told to have our cameras out and ready before getting off the zodiac.
After the first day on the zodiac, I left my backpack behind and only brought my trekking pole and my iPhone for photos. Taylor Rains/Insider
8: Things will likely not go to plan, so expect itineraries to change and be flexible.
The Ocean Endeavour with a chinstrap penguin. Taylor Rains/Insider
While Intrepid planned to spend four days in Antarctica, our trip was cut short to just two and a half days due to a monster storm.
Intrepid showed us the weather in the Drake Passage, with pink meaning gale-force winds and huge wave swells. Taylor Rains/Insider
The captain explained the reasoning and while we were all disappointed, we understood the urgency of getting back to Argentina safely.
The map of sites we'd landed in Antarctica, and some we hoped to go to but were unable. Taylor Rains/Insider
What I learned is to be ready for plans to change, whether that means not getting to camp, not doing a specific shore landing, or being forced to go home early.
One zodiac cruise destination was a 1915 shipwreck. The ship is called the Guvernøren and intentionally beached itself at Foyn Harbour after catching fire. Taylor Rains/Insider
For example, Intrepid told us we'd be landing at a site with a scientific research station, but ice prevented us from going to shore, so we spent hours on the zodiacs instead.
Views of the research station. Courtesy of Harrison Hunt
However, this actually provided the best view of whales, seals, and icebergs, so I didn't mind. I decided early that I'd just go with the flow and enjoy my time on my seventh continent.
A close up shot my friend got of a seal during one of our zodiac rides. Courtesy of Harrison Hunt
9: Going to Antarctica is not 100% environmentally friendly, though Intrepid tries.
View of the Ocean Endeavour from the zodiac. Taylor Rains/Insider
According to a study from NC State University, tourism to Antarctica could stress out and distract penguins on Barrientos Island — one of the most heavily visited areas on the continent.
A penguin getting ready to jump. Courtesy of Harrison Hunt
Source: NC State University
Co-author Yu-Fai Leung said the penguins may already be adapted to humans since people have been visiting the area since 2005, but IAATO still needs to "balance tourism demand with conservation needs."
Me standing more than the required distance away from the penguins. Intrepid gave us strict parameters for where we could walk on shore. Taylor Rains/Insider
Source: NC State University
In addition to potentially harming wildlife, cruise ships are inherently bad for Earth's oceans. However, Intrepid says it does carbon offset, uses biodegradable cleaning products, and collects sustainability-related scientific data on every voyage.
Intrepid runs a citizen science program on its Antarctic voyages to collect data for environmental programs that study things like whales, seals, and phytoplankton. Taylor Rains/Insider
Source: Intrepid Travel
Moreover, it did not offer a lot of fish onboard because it could not find a sustainable provider. Though, it still had some fish for those with certain dietary needs.
A sample menu from the first a-la-carte meal. A grilled branzino fillet was always available. Taylor Rains/Insider
While I try to be environmentally conscious in my day-to-day life, I was also aware of the impact of going to Antarctica and planned accordingly, like reading IAATO's recommendations and listening to my guides.
I was bundled with 17 total pieces of clothing, as well as a mandatory life jacket. Taylor Rains/Insider
At the end of the day, I don't regret going to Antarctica, and each person can make that decision for themselves.
Taylor Rains/Insider
It was truly a life-changing experience thanks to the knowledgeable guides and the amazing people I met onboard.
A selfie on the zodiac with one of our guides, Andrew. Taylor Rains/Insider
And don't skip the polar plunge, if you can. You're attached to a rope and given a shot of vodka afterward to warm you up — it was quite a thrill!
Me taking the polar plunge into Deception Island, which is actually a crater and active volcano. Courtesy of Intrepid Travel
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