I spent 48 hours in Canada's largest province. Here are 9 highlights from my trip that made me want to go back.
Joey Hadden
- I spent two days in Québec, Canada's largest province, during a train trip through Eastern Canada.
- I spent one day exploring Québec City and another day walking around Montréal.
Welcome to Québec, the largest province in Canada.
In August 2022, I took a train trip from my home in New York City up to Eastern Canada to explore Niagara Falls and Toronto in the province of Ontario, as well as Montréal and Québec City in the province of Québec.
It was my first time visiting Canada, and I left wishing had more days in each place, but especially in Québec. It's the largest province in Canada, and Montréal and Québec City are its biggest cities.
The province is steeped in rich European history and I was expecting the cities I visited to be filled with French signage and storefronts and old-world architecture. And indeed, I thought that Québec City felt frozen in time while Montréal seemed more like a modern metropolis filled with green spaces and pockets of history to stumble upon.
Québec City drew me in with its dramatic historical buildings and charmed me with quaint cobblestone streets lined with colorful, modest buildings, while Montréal had contemporary skyscrapers surrounding parks and historical streets.
I left both cities longing for more time to wander, shop, and dine, and also wished I had the chance to venture further out to explore more of Québec. Here's what impressed me, and why I hope to be back soon, and for longer next time.
Québec is a province in Eastern Canada, and home to some of the country's oldest cities, Québec City and Montréal.
Québec is located in Eastern Canada, northwest of Ontario.
Britannica reports that Québec makes up one-sixth of the country's total land mass, at 643,803 square miles, according to the Quebec Secretariat for Canadian Relations. Ontario is the second-largest province, according to Britannica.
Québec's borders contain thousands of lakes and rivers that provide 71,000 square miles of fresh water, according to the same source.
Québec is not only large, it's also quite historic. The province originated in Québec City in 1534 and I was fascinated to learn all about the history and well-preserved areas, some of which I thought still look as they did in the 1700s.
I was fascinated by the history of Québec long before I arrived.
Québec City, the province's capital, was founded in 1608, making it the oldest city in Canada, according to the city's website.
But its history goes back even further than that. BBC reports that in 1534, French explorer Jacques Cartier found and claimed the land surrounding the St. Lawrence River, Québec, then known as New France, for his country.
Then, in 1763, after British colonists settled in the Americas, war broke out over the land, according to the same source, and the British took over all French colonies east of the Mississippi River. England ruled Québec until it became a part of Canada in 1867, but the French language was still recognized.
Since then, there have been many efforts to preserve French history and culture. In 1972, the government of Québec instituted the Cultural Property Act, which allows the government and local officials to identify and protect elements of the land's heritage from being altered in a way that destroys its history, such as buildings and artwork.
And in 1985, the Historic District of Old Québec, a neighborhood in Québec City that has been preserved for 400 years, became a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
According to UNESCO, Old Québec was selected because of its roots in French-American civilization and preserved French and British colonial architecture, from Neoclassical cathedrals to government buildings inspired by the Second Empire, an architectural style classified by prominent rooftops, according to the Department of Archaeology and Historic Preservation. These elements make it the "most complete example of a fortified colonial town north of Mexico," according to UNESCO.
Because of its title as a UNESCO World Heritage site, I expected Québec City to look historic but I didn't realize that little has physically changed since the 1700s. I was amazed at how some areas, like Dufferin Terrace, a wide, wooden pedestrian walkway in Old Québec between the Fairmont Le Château Frontenac and the cliff overlooking the St Lawrence River, looked to me exactly like it did in 1753, despite being enlarged twice, according to the city's website.
Montréal was founded 34 years after Québec City. I found intriguing elements of history tucked away between the streets' modern skyscrapers. I wish I had more time to dig deeper into the city's vast history.
Montréal was founded by the French in 1652, according to The Canadian Encyclopedia, and it quickly became the center of Québec's fur trade. Montréal relied on fur trade through the British conquer of Québec until the 1800s, when the city's economy relied on establishing rural settlements outside of the metropolis, according to the same source.
Montréal grew through the next 200 years, as people living in the surrounding suburbs found work in the city. In the 19th century, many of the buildings and streets from the original French settlement were destroyed and replaced with modern skyscrapers. Montréal is now the second-largest city in Canada after Toronto, according to the Council of Europe, so I was only able to explore a slice of it.
While the city has grown into a modern metropolis, organizations have sought to preserve what's left of the city's history. Since 1975, Heritage Montreal, a non-profit organization, has worked to care for Montréal's history.
While Old Montréal, a neighborhood full of cobblestone streets and 17th-century buildings, was designated a historic district by the government of Québec in 1964, Heritage Montreal has since fought to preserve other parts of the city, like Avenue McGill College, a street in downtown Montréal, and historical architectural treasures throughout the city, according to the organization's website.
Compared to Québec City, I thought Montréal had a more modern feel with pockets of history to explore, and I wished I had more time to take it all in.
I thought Québec City and Montréal were both very walkable cities and loved exploring on foot.
My first stop in Québec was Montréal, where I had roughly 24 hours. Since my trip was so short, I stayed in the Vogue Hotel in the downtown area to make the most of my time. The area was very walkable, as it was close to popular areas like Old Montréal, Mount Royal, and the Underground City. I only took one cab to grab a bite at a poutine restaurant, La Banquise.
I then traveled to Québec City by train from Montréal and took a 20-minute uphill walk from the station, Gare du Palais, to the neighborhood of Old Quebec, where I stayed at the hotel, Fairmont Le Château Frontenac, which is famous for being the most photographed hotel in the world, according to World Atlas.
I spent my time in Old Québec walking around the hotel's surrounding photogenic streets and was immediately impressed. The hotel sits on a cliff overlooking the St. Lawrence River with stunning views of the streets below, dotted with red and yellow rooftops.
Although I saw plenty of history and culture close to my hotel, I longed for more time to explore the walkable streets I viewed from above.
Both cities impressed me with their atmospheric neighborhoods, containing sprawling cobblestone streets and historic buildings.
In both cities, I explored the most preserved neighborhoods — Old Québec and Old Montréal. I thought they looked quite similar and both transported me back in time with narrow cobblestone roads lined with European-style buildings.
In Québec City, I stayed in Old Québec, which has been preserved for 400 years, according to the city's website. I felt immersed in the history as I walked through streets lined with shopping and restaurants, as well as Art Deco homes and storefronts with pops of color on an otherwise pale facade.
In Montréal, as I walked around Old Montréal, I found historic buildings with intricately molded facades, which reminded me of Europe. Next time I'm in Montréal, I plan to find accommodations in Old Montréal so I can learn more about the city's history and stay in the heart of it.
While I took beautiful pictures in both cities, I didn't have time to go inside the many shops, museums, and restaurants along the way, and hope to be back to explore more of these inviting neighborhoods.
In both cities, old-world architecture wowed me with a mix of Neoclassical and Gothic Revival styles.
Both cities showcased several different architectural styles that I wanted to learn more about.
In Québec City, staying at Fairmont Le Château Frontenac allowed me to marvel at all of the European-style architecture that filled the area.
Since Québec City city was founded by the French and conquered by the British, there is a variety of architectural styles from these influences, like Neoclassical and Art Deco, according to Culture Trip. Neoclassical buildings are characterized by simple, symmetrical, and massive structures with towering columns, according to Architectural Digest, while Art Deco buildings have a linear structure with stucco facades and geometric details, according to the Pennsylvania Historical and Museum Commission.
I spotted examples of this in old-world cathedrals like Notre-Dame de Québec Basilica-Cathedral, which has a Neoclassical style with towers and stained-glass detailing, according to Québec City's website. I noticed government structures like the National Assembly building, L'Hôtel du Parlement, which was inspired by the Second Empire, a European architectural style that was popular between 1877 and 1887, Culture Trip reports.
Some of these buildings have been preserved for hundreds of years, according to the city's website. Viewing their details, like the statues of historical figures on the facades of Second Empire buildings and the turrets I spotted on the facade of the Fairmont Le Château Frontenac, made me feel like I was traveling back in time. I'd love to return to Québec City to see them up close.
In Montréal, I spotted historic architecture from downtown to Old Montréal. I thought Montréal was one of the most beautiful cities I've ever seen, thanks to the contrasting modern and historical architectural styles, from Art Deco to Gothic Revival, according to Culture Trip. Gothic Revival buildings are classified by pointed arches and ornamental facades, according to the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
In downtown Montréal, I spotted historic structures that stood out next to modern skyscrapers, like Mary, Queen of the World Cathedral, a Neoclassical structure that's one of the largest churches in all of Québec, according to Culture Trip.
Another building that stopped me in my tracks was the Sun Life building, which I later found out secretly stored British gold during the second world war, Culture Trip reports. The building's Gothic Revival architecture impressed me because it was taller than some of the more modern skyscrapers.
In each city, I accessed high points where I could marvel at the city streets below, leaving me longing for more time to explore other pockets of each city.
Québec City and Montréal both have places where visitors can experience incredible views. Walking up and down the hills of each city was strenuous but rewarding as I enjoyed impressive all-encompassing views. Those same views also reminded me I had only experienced a tiny portion of each city.
In Québec City, Dufferin Terrace is hugely visited by locals and tourists alike to take photos, according to the city's website. And after visiting for myself, I thought it was easy to see why.
I first visited the terrace around 7 a.m. after waking up in the Fairmont Le Château Frontenac. All I had to do was go downstairs and walk outside to be welcomed with a view of the St. Lawrence river on the quiet, empty boardwalk. Since the terrace and hotel are situated on a cliff, I had a high position to view the lower streets of Québec City. Leaning on the fence lining the terrace, I could see cobblestone streets and colorful rooftops below.
I returned to Dufferin Terrace again in the afternoon to find the boardwalk had come alive with crowds of people taking a stroll or sitting on the benches next to the fences. Many had a phone taking pictures in one hand and ice cream in the other, as the terrace had a couple of restaurants and ice cream shops.
In Montréal, I thought that Mount Royal, a small mountain in the middle of the city, was just as rewarding from the top.
Since I only had one night in the city, I got up around 6 a.m. and walked from my hotel downtown to Mount Royal. It was a 30-minute uphill walk followed by another half hour of climbing stairs that traversed the mountain. It was tiring, but when I got to the top, I thought it was totally worth it. I could see the whole city and wished for more time to wander specific streets.
Stores in Québec charmed me with intricate window displays, and I wished I had time to shop.
While visiting Québec City and Montréal, I thought both cities were filled with inviting shops and markets.
I spent a few hours in Québec City exploring and photographing the streets of Old Québec, full of shops and restaurants, like Rue Saint-Jean, where I spotted street vendors selling art, as well as gorgeous brick-and-mortar storefronts with elaborate window displays showcasing fashionable outfits and home decor that made me wish I had the time, budget, and luggage space to shop.
Next time, I'll bring a larger suitcase to make room for the unique finds I imagine I would have found here.
In Montréal, I spotted plenty of shops, too, including a handful of bookstores. Window displays for these stores made me pause when I saw familiar titles written in French, like "The Little Prince." I didn't have time to shop here either, but next time, I'd like to go inside some of the bookstores I walked by.
In Plateau Mont-Royal, the neighborhood surrounding Mount Royal, I saw boutique shops and vintage stores like Annex Vintage, a high-end second-hand store, and Boutique Unicorn, a shop full of clothes made by Montréal designers. I longed for the time and budget to shop for designers that are unique to Montréal.
After trying poutine, a dish that's popular in Canada for the first time, I want to go back to sample some different renditions.
Poutine is a Canadian comfort food. Originating in Québec, it's a pile of fries topped with cheese curds and smothered in gravy, according to the Food Network.
Before visiting Canada, I had never tried poutine or even saw it on a menu. But that all changed in Montréal when I dined at La Banquise, a casual joint serving classic poutine, as described above, as well as more creative renditions loaded with meats, veggies, bacon, or more sauces like Caesar and chipotle.
I decided to go with the classic since it was my first time. The fries were crispy and greasy — just like I like them. I thought the gravy was reminiscent of Thanksgiving dinner, and the curds added a unique texture without adding too much flavor. All together in one bite, I could see why this dish was so popular and comforting. I found it to be warm, filling, and nostalgic as it transported me back to Thanksgiving dinners.
Next time I'm in Montréal, I'll go back to La Banquise to try some of the more loaded poutines on the menu.
During my short stay, I learned that you can't see Québec properly in just two days. There are so many grand sights that warrant a much longer trip, and next time, I'll plan accordingly.
On my way to the airport leaving Québec City, I couldn't help but feel like my trip to Québec was just an introduction to the area.
Next time I'm in Québec, not only do I want to return to Québec City and Montréal, but I also want to explore the pine-covered Canadian wilderness outside of the cities. Parks like Parc National de la Jacques-Cartier and Montmorency Falls in Québec showcase the grandness of Canada with deep valleys between mountains and a waterfall more than 100 feet taller than Niagara Falls, according to the Crazy Tourist.
Since I live in NYC, just a 90-minute flight away, I'll definitely be back to get a better sense of the culture and history of this place.
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