I spent 3 nights in Asia's least visited country. It also turned out to be the most expensive.
Jul 26, 2024, 15:24 IST
- Marielle Descalsota has spent over $30,000 on travel in the last two years.
- Timor-Leste is one of the most expensive countries she's traveled to.
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I graduated from college two years ago and set a goal for myself to visit at least 50 countries before I turn 30.Even while maintaining a full-time job throughout most of my travels, I've already managed to tick 20 off the list. I've traveled to six countries in Europe and 14 across Asia.
I spent about a quarter of my salary over the past two years on travel expenses, which have added up to over $30,000. I've managed to stay on a tight budget even in upscale destinations like the Maldives — where I spent less than $1,000 on a five-day trip — and backpacked on a few dollars a day in cities like Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur.
But on a recent trip to Timor-Leste in May — a country in the South Pacific only slightly larger in size than the state of Connecticut — I found budgeting more difficult than ever. The country comprises half of Timor Island — which it shares with Indonesia — and is known for its unspoiled waters and vibrant coral reefs.
It's one of the world's least-visited countries, making airfare and hotel rates more expensive than many countries in Asia.
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Here's a breakdown of what I spent in Timor-Leste.
Cost of return plane tickets from Bali to Dili: $500
Getting to Timor-Leste isn't easy. When I was traveling, Bali, Indonesia, and Darwin, Australia, were the only cities with flights to Dili, the capital, where the country's only international airport is located. Only two airlines — the Indonesian low-cost carrier Citilink and the local airline Aero Dili — fly between Bali and Dili. The flight from Bali is less than two hours long — while there are no direct flights from the US to Bali, stopovers through bigger airports like Singapore and Tokyo are often used.I booked a return ticket with Citilink about three weeks before departure for $500 — which was around $100 cheaper than Aero Dili. This included a front-row seat reservation and a 44-lb checked bag allowance.
Cost of hotel stay for three nights: $500
Timor-Leste only has a handful of three-star hotels and no luxury accommodations. While Hilton plans to open a hotel in Dili's business district later this year, there were no international hotel chains when I visited.Advertisement
Many travelers stay in guesthouses by the beach, which only have basic amenities such as fans and mosquito nets. I booked an entry-level room for three nights at Timor Plaza Hotel & Apartments for around $500, including tax.While the room itself was basic — and had its fair share of critters — the hotel had a stunning view of Atauro, one of Timor Leste's two offshore islands. It was also located above a small mall, which made eating out easy.
Cost of transportation: $90
Ride-hailing services weren't available in Timor-Leste, and taxi services are limited to the city center. I was quoted $20 per hour to rent a car, and I wasn't willing to pay $200 for a day.Fortunately, I met a local guide who charged $30 per day to tour me around Dili on a scooter. I found it an inexpensive and efficient way to travel from the gorgeous white-sand beaches to the beautiful tropical mountains.
Cost of food: $180
Food in Dili is surprisingly international. Despite only a handful of international food chains — including Burger King and Gloria Jean's Coffee — operating in Timor Leste, Western food like burgers are ubiquitous. I ate mostly local Timorese food and Indonesian fare.Advertisement
I had set a daily budget of around $60 for meals, drinks, and snacks for my guide and me. While a plate of nasi goreng — Indonesian fried rice — costs around $3 to $4 in Bali, I paid around $15 for the dish in Dili. At a local café, I paid $8 for a small plate of jackfruit, carrots, lettuce, and tortillas.Miscellaneous costs: $415
Before my trip, I spent $15 on an eSIM and $20 on travel insurance. When I arrived in Timor-Leste, I had to pay $30 for the visa-on-arrival, which allowed me to stay in the country for 30 days.Souvenirs in Timor-Leste are expensive. I purchased a small handmade bag and sarong from the local Tais market — a type of weave indigenous to the country — for around $70. I snagged a handmade belt at another shop for $30. I bought several bags of Timorese coffee — the country's second-biggest export — for $50.
I didn't expect to find Western makeup products in Timor-Leste, so I bought a few items when I did find them at a local grocery for $70, although at a substantial markup compared to what they cost on retailers like Amazon.
I didn't spend much on sightseeing as most of my time was spent swimming at the beach and exploring the tropical mountains. For activities, I spent $30 on a massage at a traditional Chinese spa and $50 on a half-day scuba diving trip at the coast. I budgeted about $50 for tips.
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While traveling to Timor-Leste was expensive, the stunning views were worth it. I'd do it again in a heartbeat.Correction: July 25, 2024 — An earlier version of this story misstated the size of Timor-Leste. It's slightly larger than the state of Connecticut, not smaller.