The author traveled to Sri Lanka to ride its famed coastal train.Marielle Descalsota/Business Insider
- I recently went on a solo trip to Sri Lanka and rode its famed coastal rail.
- The rail had stunning views of honey-colored beaches and the Indian Ocean.
Sri Lanka has been on my must-visit list for years. The teardrop-shaped island in South Asia is known for its stunning beaches, lush jungles, and foliage-covered mountains.
So right after I found out I had two vacation days that needed to be used up before the end of the month, I got online and booked a flight to the capital, Colombo, from Singapore, where I'm based. The flight is just under five hours.
After spending a night in Colombo, I made my way to Kollupitiya station and headed south to Bentota, a resort town. I spent two days there enjoying the honey-colored beach and watching surfers ride the waves at sunset. My plans for the trip to Sri Lanka involved little more than this, followed by a ride on the coastal train when it was time to head back north.
The journey from Bentota to Colombo by car was almost a two-hour-long journey. And by train, with its multiple stops along the way, it would take nearly an hour longer. But Sri Lanka's coastal train is famed as one of the most scenic in Asia, so I had to try it.
Take a look at what it's like to ride Sri Lanka's coastal train.
My journey started in Aluthgama, a small seaside town that's 40 miles south of Colombo.
A view of one of Sri Lanka's cross-country trains. Marielle Descalsota/Business Insider
Aluthgama's train station is located right across the bridge that connects the town with Bentota. While Bentota does have its own station, many people choose to come to the one in Aluthgama as it's near several resorts and hostels.
Sri Lanka's railway extends to most parts of the country, and one of its most famous is the coastal rail, which has views of its southern coast and the Indian Ocean. In total, the rail stretches almost 970 miles. Other routes take as long as eight to 10 hours and pass by Sri Lanka's picturesque tea plantations and sprawling rice fields.
I met a local tuk-tuk driver, Suresh, who offered to take me to Aluthgama station, around 15 minutes from Bentota. Suresh, with his thick, curly hair and sporty sunglasses, spotted me walking along a busy street, looking for a restaurant. He ended up being my guide for a few hours.
Getting around by tuk-tuk — a motorized rickshaw popular in Sri Lanka and other Asian countries like Thailand and Cambodia — was the best form of transportation for a budget traveler like me, as Suresh charged me just 200 Sri Lanka rupees or 65 cents for a ride.
Like many rail stations in Sri Lanka, the one in Aluthgama was bare and resembled a shed.
The rail station in Bentota in the southern province. Marielle Descalsota/Business Insider
It was dry season in Sri Lanka, so the temperature hovered at 95 degrees Fahrenheit that day. The sun was beating down on the dusty, sandy streets. It was so hot that several locals took shelter from the sweltering sun at the foot of the station.
The station was covered in a turmeric shade of yellow, with brightly-colored portraits of locals painted on the walls of the stairs that led to the ticket office. The train tracks, which sliced through the thick jungle and towering palm trees, were built right next to a soccer field and public library.
Compared to other trains I have taken in Asia — including a 13-hour train through Thailand and a two-hour long trip on the Laos-China rail — the station felt dated. Yet I appreciated the vintage charm this helped to provide.
As I was traveling without a set schedule, I bought a ticket at the station itself.
Locals waiting to get on the train to Colombo. Marielle Descalsota/Business Insider
At the time, I didn't realize passengers could purchase a ticket in advance. But many locals appeared to buy their tickets right before the train arrived. I arrived at the station at 3 p.m. and learned the counter only opened 30 minutes later. I ended up waiting for an hour.
First, I met Manvik, a local business owner, at the station. Manvik was in his 40s, bald, and dressed in a short-sleeved shirt paired with slacks. As a solo traveler, I'm often wary of overly friendly people. But I quickly warmed up to Manvik, who invited me to his seafood restaurant the next time I visited Sri Lanka.
While waiting for the counter to open, I got into a conversation with Kalana, a student who was on his way home. He told me he majored in management at a college in Galle, a city on the southwestern tip of Sri Lanka. Kalana, with his boyish smile and dark hair, said he made the commute every day and spotted a handful of tourists on it daily.
I eventually made a beeline for the counter and snagged a second-class ticket to Colombo Fort for 300 rupees, or less than a dollar. In hindsight, this was the best — and cheapest — way to travel across the country, as a first-class train reservation online for the same route cost 900 rupees, and hailing a car on the local app costs 10 times as much.
When I got on the first car of the train, it was already chock full of passengers.
The train was crowded with locals trying to get home. Marielle Descalsota/Business Insider
The majority of the passengers appeared to be locals, but there were a handful of tourists traveling to Colombo too. The train car was fitted with two rows of black leather seats on each side and a fairly spacious aisle. It was bare-bones, with overhead lights and one tiny fan doing little to quell the heat inside the train.
Right before the train left, several vendors were busy peddling paruppu vadai, a popular local snack that's deep-fried and prepared with spices like red and green chilies, fennel, and cumin. The fatty, oily aroma wafted in the air through the crowded car. Other vendors were selling sodas and sliced tropical fruits like guava and mango.
I met a family of three from Barcelona who had been traveling in Sri Lanka for three weeks. They said that they got around the country only by train and that Colombo was their last stop. We all posted up at the narrow entrance of the car, cramped by the door, tightly holding our belongings.
The train ended up leaving at around 4.50 p.m., which meant I had been waiting for almost two hours. But I was just thankful it wasn't canceled, like the trains in Europe I traveled on in February.
I spent most of the ride sitting on my suitcase.
The author sitting on her suitcase by the door on a train in Sri Lanka. Marielle Descalsota/Business Insider
I travel light whenever I'm in Asia, so I flew to Sri Lanka with just a backpack and a 15-pound suitcase. Packing light worked in my favor as it made the trip more comfortable.
I couldn't get a seat, so I simply sat on my suitcase, grabbed whatever I could, and held on. It was a bumpy ride, with one woman even falling on me, almost thrusting me and my bags toward the open door. Nonetheless, I found being by the door the best seat on the train, as the breeze from the sea felt refreshing.
The views of the coast were incredible.
The best part of the train trip was the stunning coastline of Sri Lanka. Marielle Descalsota/Business Insider
I was right at the mouth of the door and had a front-row view of the coast and the sea. The rumbling of the train and the swooshing of the powerful waves was the perfect soundtrack to the scenic ride.
It was dusk, and the sun's bright orange hue lit up the sparkling, metallic blue waters. The train also passed several villages where people lived in tin-roofed homes on the beach. Nearing Colombo, the train was so close to the water that I could see waves crashing onto the sand.
The ride went by much faster than I had anticipated. In no time, I reached Colombo Fort.
Colombo Fort is the main railway station of the capital of Sri Lanka. Marielle Descalsota/Business Insider
The train arrived earlier than scheduled, at around 6.45 p.m. Colombo Fort is one of the largest rail stations in Sri Lanka. Built in 1908, over 200,000 passengers travel through the station every day. Several screens displayed the scheduled routes — something that I hadn't seen in the dozen other train stations I passed along the way.
It was bustling, with hundred of passengers getting on and off the trains and staff loading them with several carts of food. Still, it felt calm and far from the rush and chaos I had experienced in Bangkok's main station a few years back.
I've traveled on trains in 8 countries so far, and the coastal rail in Sri Lanka has got to be my favorite.
Train service continued until late at night in Sri Lanka. Marielle Descalsota/Business Insider
While my trip to Sri Lanka was last-minute, it turned out to be a memorable one. Not only were the views from the rail spectacular, but the locals were incredibly helpful and welcoming too. And while I've had challenges traveling solo to countries for the first time in the past, in Sri Lanka, it felt easy. It made traveling feel adventurous but safe at the same time.
I'm already planning my next trip to Sri Lanka at the end of the year, and I can't wait to go on one from Kandy to Ella, which passes through the country's central highlands. I'd be happy to take that same ride again as well.