I lined up for 5 hours to eat at one of only 2 Michelin-starred street food stalls in the world. From beginning to end, nothing about it was what I expected.

Bangkok has a population of 10.9 million, making it one of the biggest cities in Southeast Asia. It's also one of the most popular tourist destinations in the world, with almost 26 million visitors in 2019.

Bangkok is a food paradise — there were more than 320,000 restaurants in the city in 2019. But only 30 restaurants were awarded Michelin stars in 2022, and less than half of these establishments serve Thai cuisine.

Jay Fai, located in Phra Nakhon, Bangkok, was founded in the 1980s by Supinya Junsuta. It was first awarded a one-Michelin star rating in 2018. Junsuta, who is 75 years old, remains the only chef at the restaurant today.

The restaurant, which serves street food, is one of the most famous in Bangkok. It was featured in the 2019 Netflix show "Street Food," and has dozens of celebrity fans, including Russell Crowe, John Legend, and Martha Stewart.

Jay Fai has cultivated a cult following over the years, with diners praising the restaurant's food as "delicious and unique," and an "art-like performance."

I've also eaten at the only other Michelin-starred street food stall, Singapore's Tai Hwa Pork Noodle. But unlike Tai Hwa, which sells a plate of noodles for 6 Singapore dollars, or $4.50, the food at Jay Fai is expensive — really expensive.

Jay Fai's dishes cost between 500 and 1,500 Thai baht, or $13.80 to $41. One local cab driver, Nakhon Ratchapong, told me the restaurant's food is "good for tourists" but too expensive for locals.

"For foreigners the food is okay," Ratchapong told me. "There's cheaper options for locals at Khao San Road or Phetchaburi Road."

Dozens of tourists flocked to the front of the restaurant, asking staff how much longer they would have to wait to be seated. Others gathered right at the corner of the street, trying to peer through makeshift walls for a glimpse of chef Junsuta.

I asked a staff member if I could take photos of the chef, who had been cooking since 9 a.m. She first told me no, and after I explained that I was on an assignment, she conceded and said I could try to take photos but from a distance.

I decided to walk up and try my luck in person. I had just arrived in the city via sleeper train from Chiang Mai, and I was starving. Bangkok was hot, and it was scorching in the restaurant.

I found a chaotic atmosphere at the restaurant — it was crowded, loud, and the smoke from Junsuta's wok filled the street. There were around a dozen tables at the restaurant, all served by only one chef.

When I realized it would be hours until I was seated at the restaurant, I decided to walk around. I bought several Thai-style meats and fresh juices from vendors to tide me over.

The outdoor kitchen spilled out into alley where the restaurant was located. Around a dozen assistants shelled and prepared ingredients, from eggs to seafood.

I've heard of how high-stress Michelin-starred kitchens can be from various chefs, and Jay Fai was no different.

By the time of my meal, she had already been cooking for eight hours, but she still maintained a laser-like focus. I eventually saw a softer side to chef Junsuta, when she broke her own rules to pose for a couple photos.

Two sauces accompanied the omelet. I right dug in. The dish was light, fluffy, and flavorful, and it paired perfectly with a bowl of rice, which cost 30 baht, or 80 cents.

The crispiness of the outside offered a textural contrast to the tenderness of the crab meat.

The noodles were quite sour and a lot less spicy than I expected. Like the omelet, the pieces of seafood in the noodles were huge. I advise diners to order a variety of dishes and share it with others as the portions are family-sized.

From the long lines to the elusiveness of chef Junsuta herself, dining at Jay Fai is an experience to remember. I can't say that I'll line up for several hours again to eat her rendition of Thai cuisine, but I'm glad to have tried it once.

Having been to Bangkok several times, Jay Fai is now one of my must-visit spots in the city — but only if you have a lot of time to spare and don't mind a chaotic backdrop to dinner.