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I hiked the Path of the Gods on Italy's Amalfi Coast. Here's how to plan for this incredible trip.

Oct 9, 2023, 17:39 IST
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The Path of the Gods is known as Sentiero degli Dei in Italian.Timothy Moore
  • Italy's Path of the Gods on the Amalfi Coast is one of the most breathtaking hikes in the world.
  • Getting to the trail's starting point can be challenging (and expensive).
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The Path of the Gods on Italy's Amalfi Coast is one of the most beautiful hikes in the world, but it's also really difficult to get to.

Known as Sentiero degli Dei in Italian, the path starts in a small village high in the mountains and takes you down to the coastal town of Positano.

On a 25-day trip through Italy, my husband and I prioritized this epic yet difficult-to-coordinate hike. Here's how I recommend preparing for the trip.

Study the hike beforehand

The Path of the Gods is a point-to-point hike, which means you'll end at a different location than you started.

Because the hike is all about the stunning views below — and we didn't want to be utterly exhausted on our relaxing Amalfi Coast trip — we started at the top of the trail in Bomerano and hiked down the mountainside to Nocelle.

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After reaching Nocelle, we walked down to Positano, one of the most popular towns on the Amalfi Coast.

I recommend starting at the top of the hike in Bomerano.Timothy Moore

In theory, you can hike the other way, but it's much more strenuous. Plus, it leaves you with your back toward the best views.

Arrange transportation to the hike ahead of time

There were plenty of signs to point us in the right direction.Timothy Moore

Arranging transportation to the start of the hike is stressful. Most people stay along the coast, far from the starting point, and don't have a car. Depending on the time of year, driving on the Amalfi Coast is highly discouraged for tourists.

One option is a SITA bus from Amalfi to Bomerano, but these buses are often unreliable — and if you're not staying in Amalfi proper, you first have to take a ferry or bus to the town. Plus, relying on a bus means you can't start the hike on your own, and starting early (and on time) is crucial.

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Friends of ours waited several hours for the bus from Amalfi to Bomerano, but it never showed, so they couldn't complete the hike.

Hiring a private driver was pricey but worth it.Timothy Moore

Instead of gambling on a bus, we hired a private driver from our hotel in Sorrento, who dropped us off in Bomerano. It was admittedly expensive (about $200) but stress-free and convenient.

Our driver was fantastic. He showed up early, had great food recommendations for Positano and Sorrento, and got us to the hike quickly and safely despite the treacherous winding roads.

If you're doing the Path of the Gods as the full point-to-point hike, it also means you'll need to arrange additional transportation at the end of the hike.

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Stop at cafés to grab a snack and an espresso before getting started

After grabbing some coffee, we made our way to the trail.Timothy Moore

Getting picked up at 6 a.m. didn't leave any room for coffee, and by the time our driver dropped us off in Bomerano to start the hike, we were ready to go back to sleep.

Luckily, the village of Bomerano has a few cafés to grab an espresso or two and use the restroom if needed. From the cafés, we walked 10 to 15 minutes to the start of the trail.

Get there early to beat the heat (and the crowds)

An early-morning wake-up call isn't consistent with a relaxing vacation on the Amalfi Coast, but it's ideal when doing the Path of the Gods.

When hiking early, you get gorgeous views of the sun rising over the mountains, and the temperature is much cooler.

By midday, especially in the summer, temps can reach 80 or 90 degrees Fahrenheit, and there are large stretches of path without any trees.

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Because we started early, we got to see the sunrise over the mountains.Timothy Moore

Plus, the Path of the Gods is mostly crowd-free when you go early in the morning. We started the hike with three other people, but 1/2 mile in, my husband and I were going at our own pace.

From that point, the only person we saw was a goat farmer herding his goats down the path.

We came across some goats on our hike.Timothy Moore

Ensure your packing list includes water, bug spray, and sunscreen

Packing right and light for the Path of the Gods is crucial. It's a few hours of hiking, so we brought a nice backpack with enough water to last most of the trip.

My hiking backpack was large enough to fit all of the essentials.Timothy Moore

There are water-fill spots in the town of Nocelle (before you hike the never-ending stairs to Positano), as well as some refuges where you can grab snacks and drinks. But Nocelle is about two hours into the hike.

We found a refreshment point during the hike.Timothy Moore

In addition to water, you'll want to bring bug spray (the mosquitoes were relentless) and sunscreen. I also recommend bringing an emergency roll of toilet paper, just in case.

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Wear high-quality hiking boots and use hiking poles if you have them. We only traveled with carry-ons, so we left our poles at home — and my knees really missed their support.

You'll also want to pack a swimsuit and towel if you plan to swim in Positano, and a change of clothes if you hope to grab a fancy lunch or dinner. Our clothes were soaked in sweat by the end of the hike.

Although the hike is downhill, prepare for plenty of elevation gains

Descriptions of the Path of the Gods can be misleading. Sure, it really is a trek from a mountaintop village to a town down by the sea, but despite the descent, there are several stretches where you climb up. A lot.

The overall downhill hike is anything but easy. It's a good family hike, but you need good balance, stamina, and leg strength. The path has loose rocks and steep cliffs, so hike at your own risk.

Don't forget to take in the stunning views along the coast

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The hike offered breathtaking views of the Amalfi Coast.Timothy Moore

All the effort — the physical hiking and the coordination — is worth it for the sweeping views of the Amalfi Coast.

Along the way, you'll see the massive mountains, the sparkling water, and towns like Praiano and Positano below.

Appreciate the surprises along the way

Don't just look up at the mountains and down at the water. The path-level views are also stunning.

You'll find medieval farm ruins, tall trees for occasional shade, and, if you're lucky, a parade of goats being led along the trail by a whistling farmer and his dog.

We came across the ruins of a medieval farm.Timothy Moore

Speaking of dogs, six dogs — including a few puppies — eagerly greeted us when we arrived in Nocelle. Getting in a few pets from the playful pups was a welcome break before continuing the hike.

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Finding a pack of dogs in Nocelle was a nice surprise.Timothy Moore

Be prepared for lots of steps

Technically, the Path of the Gods connects Bomerano and Nocelle.

But Nocelle is a small village that's still pretty high up the mountainside, which means you've got to walk down farther to get to Positano.

Although Nocelle is located at the end of the path, we still had more walking to do to reach Positano.Timothy Moore

At that point, it's not a hiking trail anymore, it's roughly 1,700 steps that seem to go on forever.

Our legs were rubber about halfway down.

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We were greeted by roughly 1,700 stairs to Positano.Timothy Moore

Hug the side of the busy road while walking into town

After the steps (about a 20-minute descent), the path drops you off on a winding road full of motorcycles, taxis, and buses taking on turns on the coastal roads like NASCAR drivers.

We hugged the side of the road as tight as we could and enjoyed the ocean views on the 10-minute walk to Positano.

We hugged the side of the road as we walked.Timothy Moore

Remember to coordinate return transportation

Positano is a beautiful city (but surprise — it's full of more stairs). Plan to spend time here shopping, dining, sipping Limoncello, and enjoying the beach.

If Positano is where your lodging is, you can grab a shower and change your clothes. If not, you'll also need to have a plan to get back to wherever you're staying.

We took shelter when a thunderstorm rolled in.Timothy Moore

We planned to take a ferry from Positano to Sorrento, but a storm rolled in quite quickly, and the ferries were suspended for the day.

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Instead, we were soaking wet and packed in tight on a (more reliable) SITA bus connecting Positano and Sorrento.

The Path of the Gods is 100% worth the effort

Planning and getting to the Path of the Gods was challenging and expensive, but it was one of the highlights of our nearly month-long trip to Italy.

If you plan on vacationing on the Amalfi Coast and want to add a little adventure to your relaxation, I suggest finding a way to make this hike happen.

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