I hiked Angels Landing, one of Zion National Park's most dangerous trails. Here are 13 things that surprised me about the adventure.
Timothy Moore
- I climbed to the top of Angels Landing, one of Zion National Park's most popular hikes.
- To keep the crowds at bay, the park distributes a limited amount of permits using a lottery system.
My husband and I hiked Angels Landing, a famous trail in Zion National Park, for the first time in June.
Angels Landing, one of Zion National Park's most iconic hikes, is breathtaking both in its beauty and in its physical demands.
During a June trip through the American Southwest, my husband and I tackled this Instagram-famous trek.
The 5.4-mile hike, which peaks at 1,488 feet, can be daunting for those who have a fear of heights and challenging to complete for those who don't plan ahead.
Here are the things that surprised me the most about Angels Landing.
Hikers have to enter a lottery to climb Angels Landing, and they're not guaranteed to get a permit.
As national parks have grown increasingly crowded, some have implemented timed-entry reservations, or in Zion's case, lotteries to limit traffic on certain trails, including Angels Landing.
Not everyone who enters the lottery for an Angels Landing permit gets one, especially during the busy season, which stretches from April to October.
Plus, the application process takes some forethought (and a non-refundable $6 application fee on top of the park-entrance fee).
Our trip was in early June, but the lottery for permits between June 1 to August 31 was only open from April 1 through April 20.
When we applied, the system asked us to rank seven days and windows of time, so I recommend providing as many options as possible.
If you don't want to miss out on Angels Landing during your trip to Zion, check the lottery dates and make sure you enter on time.
Visitors can also try to score a last-minute permit the day before they want to hit the trail.
If you weren't lucky enough to get an Angels Landing permit in the seasonal lottery (or you're taking a last-minute trip to Zion), you can still enter the park's day-before lottery.
But watch the clock — it closes at 3 p.m. each day.
If you plan on exploring the park the day before you hope to hike Angels Landing and are worried you won't have great cell service (spoiler alert: you probably won't), enter the day-before lottery prior to lacing up your hiking boots in the morning.
At 4 p.m., the National Park Service sends an email letting applicants know if they made the cut. Even if you do everything right, you still might not get a permit.
Without a permit, people can hike Angels Landing up to Scout Lookout.
Even if you don't win the lottery, you can still hike a portion of Angels Landing up to Scout Lookout. The trail is 3.6 miles round-trip and offers amazing views of the canyon.
The path up to Scout Lookout even includes some of the most iconic portions of the Angels Landing trail — like the 21 short, steep switchbacks known as Walter's Wiggles.
However, it excludes the thrilling chain scramble at the top.
They can also explore other sites in Zion, like the Narrows or the Emerald Pools hikes.
There's plenty to do in Zion that doesn't require a special permit.
We spent a whole day knee-deep in the Virgin River exploring the Narrows, a popular hike through Zion Canyon's narrowest section.
Visitors can also check out the nearby Emerald Pools hike, which has three loops of various distances that lead to three different pools.
The park doesn't permit hikers to drive their personal vehicles to the trailhead.
For most of the year, the National Park Service operates free shuttles along Zion Canyon Scenic Drive, where you'll find most of the trailheads.
You aren't allowed to drive your personal vehicle into this portion of the park when the shuttle is operating. Instead, you park at the visitor center and take the shuttle to your destination.
The bus has nine stops along the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive, transporting visitors on a 45-minute route between the Zion Canyon Visitor Center to the Temple of Sinawava.
If you stay outside Zion in Springdale, you can avoid the park's less-than-ideal parking situation by hopping on the town bus, called the Springdale Shuttle, and transferring to the park shuttle when you reach the visitor center.
To get to Angels Landing on the Zion Canyon Shuttle, get off at The Grotto, the sixth stop. It's about 20 to 30 minutes from the visitor center.
Once you're at The Grotto, squeeze in a quick pit stop at the restrooms before crossing the main street to the trailhead.
Even if you hike Angels Landing super early, there will likely still be crowds.
The National Park Service implemented the lottery system in April to control crowd sizes and minimize congestion on the dangerous chain portion of Angels Landing.
Even with this new system, the trail gets busy. I'm talking Disney World-level busy.
To avoid running into a lot of people, get to the trailhead early. We set our alarms for 5 a.m., left our Airbnb 45 minutes later, and were on one of the first shuttles of the day at 6:15 a.m.
Even then, the shuttle was full, and almost every passenger was headed to Angels Landing.
If you climb the route later in the morning or in the early afternoon, it'll be packed (not to mention scorching hot for most of the year).
Plus, you'll run into more traffic jams on the top portion of the climb since there's only one set of chains to go up and down the trail.
Refrigerator Canyon is an underrated portion of the trail.
Right before we reached Walter's Wiggles, we hiked through a mostly flat and shaded stretch called Refrigerator Canyon.
Because it's located between two massive rock formations, it's a peaceful, cool (hence the name "Refrigerator") section of the trail that allowed us to rest before the hard part of the hike began.
The greenery, shade, and nearby river also make it the perfect habitat for the Mexican Spotted Owl. We didn't see any of them on our hike, but the National Park Service placed multiple signs encouraging hikers to be quiet on this stretch to avoid disturbing the birds.
Walter's Wiggles weren't as bad as I expected.
OK, they're bad, but not as bad as I expected.
Before our trip, I read dozens of horror stories about Walter's Wiggles. And though the switchbacks were challenging, I've encountered more grueling ones on my trips to Yellowstone National Park, Mount Rainier, and Guadalupe Mountain.
Just pace yourself, take breaks as often as you need, and drink lots of water on your way up. Take it slow on the way down too — your knees will thank you.
Also, consider bringing hiking poles to go up and down the switchbacks. You can pack them up when you reach the chains.
There are restrooms at the top of Scout Lookout, but hikers should carry their own hand sanitizer.
I've done my fair share of all-day hikes and have taken care of my "personal business" in some unique places. So I was surprised to find a restroom at Scout Lookout, which was 1.8 miles into our trip.
But bring your own hand sanitizer because these restrooms are primitive.
The chain portion of Angels Landing was more of a mental challenge than a physical one.
The trail's chain section is what makes Angels Landing so iconic, but I expected it to be more challenging.
As long as you take your time, wear decent hiking boots, and have moderate trail experience, you shouldn't have a problem. You can even skip the climbing gloves.
I was grateful that the ascent along the narrow ridge wasn't that physically demanding because it sure was mentally taxing.
If you're at all afraid of heights, you might be taken aback by the super narrow sections, which have 1,000-foot drops on either side. But the view at the top makes it so worth it.
Just tightly grip the chain, take your time, and remember that beautiful views are steps away.
If you don't feel physically or mentally fit for this portion of the trail, turn around. Your safety is in your own hands, and people have died from falling off the edge.
The top of Angels Landing is a great spot to take a mid-hike break.
Mountaintops are usually ideal spots to have a snack, take a selfie, and sit down. But on one of the world's most popular hikes in a crowded park, I figured there would only be room to stand.
Luckily, the last stretch of the hike is one long, wide ridge with views for days. There were plenty of spots beneath trees or on top of boulders where we could sit down out of everyone's way.
You won't get the typical solo mountaintop experience, but there's enough room to take off your pack, eat a sandwich, and snap some photos.
Be careful: The daring chipmunks at the top have no shame in begging for (or stealing) your food. Persuasive and persistent as they may be, don't feed them.
Regardless of when hikers climb Angels Landing, they'll probably still hit heavy traffic on the way back down.
After soaking in the views for 20 minutes, we noticed the mountaintop was getting busier.
Although we were among the first to the summit, throngs of people weren't far behind us. And that meant there were traffic jams on the way back down the chains.
The next day, we spoke to a family who started their climb to Angels Landing in the afternoon. The same journey that took us 20 minutes took them over two hours because of the traffic.
Go as early as possible, but accept that you've chosen one of the world's most beautiful and popular hikes. You'll have to share those views — and those chains — with everyone else.
The Virgin River runs through the park, and soaking our feet in it after our hike was a welcome reprieve.
After spending over a week in the Southwest, I was accustomed to red dirt, big rocks, and dry land.
Even though I thoroughly researched the trip and knew we'd be hiking the Narrows the next day, I almost forgot that the Virgin River cuts through the park.
We crossed it just before starting the trail up to Angels Landing. Because it's an out-and-back hike, the river was waiting for us when we were done.
At the end of a sweaty hike, the Virgin River was such a welcome sight.
We immediately found a spot in the river, yanked off our hiking boots, dipped our blistered toes in the water, and ate some jerky in peace, reflecting on our monumental adventure.
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