Thelife- The Ha Giang loop in Vietnam is known as being a dangerous but thrilling journey.
- On a motorbike, I traveled along the loop, which takes nearly 300 miles of driving to complete.
As a full-time digital nomad, I'm always looking for new and exciting adventures. During earlier visits to Vietnam, I had heard countless stories about the Ha Giang loop, which is widely known as a dangerous but thrilling journey.
The adventure brings travelers into the northernmost reaches of the country, demanding a minimum of 320 kilometers (nearly 200 miles) of driving to complete it. The loop is not an easy trip and can be especially dangerous for beginners.
Some of the roads are terrifyingly narrow, the cliff edges threaten death, and inexperienced motorbike drivers make the experience even more treacherous.
We rented motorbikes and began our journey
Most travelers either follow a tour guide or ride on the back of a guide's motorbike. However, tours require everyone to follow the same schedule, taking away from the opportunity for spontaneity.
Because my friend and I are both experienced motorbike drivers, we decided to tackle the loop without a guide. Filled with equal parts anxiety and excitement, we began our journey with nothing but a paper map and our optimism to guide us.
On day one, we drove straight into the nearest valley, marveling at the surreal scenery whizzing past. We pulled over at a café viewpoint and spent an hour looking over the stunning vistas ahead.
We finished the last leg of day one in the dark. Our tiny headlamps only illuminated the road in front of us, making each tight, invisible bend a terrifying experience.
We crashed a wedding along the way
On day two, we found a massive event in a public, open-air space. Motorbikes and brightly dressed locals filled the roads and their joyful laughter piqued our curiosity. Within minutes, guests introduced us to the bride and groom.
Everyone welcomed us with open arms and seemed unbothered by the fact that we were crashing the wedding. Following a few Google-translated conversations with attendees, we restarted our Odyssean journey.
We spent the next couple of hours enjoying the lush green vistas and absorbing the eerie peace of remote villages.
Driving on high mountain roads that almost touched the sky, I felt like I was driving through the clouds, with barely a soul around to see my flight.
The danger of the Ha Giang loop soon became a reality
While taking on a tight bend, I swung out too wide and encountered a local driver in my path. I had to decide whether to hit the driver or throw myself off the bike to prevent a collision. I chose the latter.
I hit the ground knee-first and landed with my motorbike on top of me. For a split second, I thought my life was over.
Snapping out of the shock, I dragged myself and the bike off the road while apologizing profusely to the other driver. Tourist crashes must be a common sight because he just shrugged and drove off.
I left the crash site with severe road rash on my arms and legs. Thankfully, both my bike and I escaped any critical injuries. After dousing my body in antiseptic, we drove to the nearest town to find lunch and a mechanic.
I found a trustworthy mechanic who fixed my wind mirrors and refused to take payment. Still vibrating from the shock, we finished the day at a remote spa to wash away the day's drama.
We didn't let the crash stop us from experiencing everything the loop had to offer
The next day's journey started with a steep climb out of a valley followed by a steep descent through a rock quarry. This nightmare drive felt scarier than my crash, as every meter driven over the loose rocks conjured images of being flung into the valley below.
While pulled over for a break to recover from the morning's stress, curiosity led me to a storm drain dug underneath the road. Crawling through it, we found spectacular views, dangled our legs over the cliff edge, and tucked into another breakfast of fruit and nuts we had purchased earlier from a roadside shop.
By late afternoon, we arrived at a hidden waterfall near the village of Du Gia. Finding it deserted, we dove in for a naked swim to wash off the day's dust and dirt.
After devouring dinner, we crashed in a shared hostel room with mattresses scattered on the floor.
After all the highs and lows of the trip, I regret nothing
Arriving in Ha Giang City, which is both the beginning and end of the loop, we calculated that our monumental journey had covered 350 kilometers (over 200 miles) in three and a half days.
I may have seen my life flash before my eyes, but I don't regret taking on the loop. It was a once-in-a-lifetime experience that I would love to tackle again one day.
The threat of injury or death was ever-present, but all I can remember is the liberation of flying through the mountains of Northern Vietnam with nothing except my wits to guide me home.