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Noma, a 5-time winner of the 'World's Best Restaurant' title, is closing down and I got one of the last summer reservations. Here's why it will be missed.
Noma, a 5-time winner of the 'World's Best Restaurant' title, is closing down and I got one of the last summer reservations. Here's why it will be missed.
Page EllersonJul 21, 2023, 22:13 IST
A composite image showing the author sipping on a glass of wine and one of the dishes that was served during the meal at Noma.Page Ellerson
Founded by chef René Redzepi in 2003, Noma is an iconic restaurant based in Copenhagen, Denmark.
I'm a 27-year-old who has had the incredible opportunity to spend most of this year traveling the world. In classic backpacker fashion, I've been staying in hostels with shared bathrooms and bunk-bed rooms of six to 10 people.
But in February, my friend Kinnery asked if I wanted to meet her in Copenhagen this summer, and she suggested we try to get a table at Noma, a famed restaurant that has snagged the top spot on the World's 50 Best Restaurants list multiple times and earned three Michelin stars in 2021.
It wasn't exactly the kind of experience I'd been used to while backpacking, but I told her if we could get a reservation I was in. At just under $600 per person plus about $250 to $330 more for a juice or wine pairing, Noma isn't cheap.
As someone who teased a friend for buying astronomically expensive Taylor Swift tickets, I did feel a bit hypocritical. This was the most I've ever personally spent on a singular event of any kind, let alone a meal, and though my wallet deeply regrets it, I do not.
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Noma serves "New Nordic" cuisine and has inspired an entire wave of cooking since opening 20 years ago.
The exterior of Noma.Page Ellerson
Getting the reservation was insanely difficult.
A flurry of texts from the author's friend as they attempt to secure reservations.Page Ellerson
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Months later we arrived in Copenhagen to dine with strangers from Reddit.
The author and her friend in Copenhagen.Page Ellerson
The impeccably calm greeters were very kind despite my disheveled appearance and led me into a greenhouse where the rest of my party was waiting and enjoying a cider that had been served prior to my arrival.
A composite image showing a glass of cider and the exterior of Noma's greenhouse.Page Ellerson
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There, I met Jenna and Billy Wilson from Asheville, North Carolina, and Mirjam Dolislager and Alexander van Zanten from Holland.
The author and her fellow diners outside the entrance of Noma.Page Ellerson
After coming back, the stress I had been feeling from my chaotic morning finally evaporated. I was at Noma and the experience was just beginning. The only choice I had left to make was whether to do a wine or juice pairing.
Inside the Noma greenhouse.Page Ellerson
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We entered the restaurant through garlands of vegetables, plants, and flowers.
The entrance of Noma.Page Ellerson
A small army of employees greeted us as we walked past. As someone who has experienced sorority recruitment, it felt … eerily familiar.
The hallway inside the restaurant.Page Ellerson
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The restaurant's ambiance mirrored how the food would end up tasting — natural and simplistic with a quiet beauty.
Noma featured floor-to-ceiling windows alternating between being open and closed.Page Ellerson
On the other side of the dining room was the open kitchen Noma is so famous for.
An interior shot showing Noma's open kitchen.Page Ellerson
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Half the table was doing a wine pairing and half was doing a juice tasting. I went for the former.
A composite image shows the author drinking a glass of wine and a glass with a wine bottle behind it.Page Ellerson
Kinnery found the juices nice but not worth the price tag.
The author's friend holds a glass of juice.Page Ellerson
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Our first dish arrived. It was a mushroom sashimi that was refreshing.
Mushroom sashimi at Noma.Page Ellerson
After this, we were served a flower you eat on a pine cone you don't eat (which was equally confusing and charming) along with an elderflower miso crisp that was adorned with daintily folded golden beets.
Hip rose and elderflower miso crisp with golden beets at Noma.Page Ellerson
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Next, I learned what ramson is (it's wild garlic) and ate it with a koji cake filling (koji is a fungus) and fried elderberry capers on the side.
Ramson and Koji cake at Noma.Page Ellerson
Just one course after being served a pine cone we were not supposed to eat, we were served a pinecone we were supposed to eat. I found the presentation of this a little lame.
Pine skewer at Noma.Page Ellerson
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Next was the flower soup. Made up of foraged flowers, this was beautiful and refreshing.
A flower soup at Noma.Page Ellerson
At this point, we had all apologized to each other about how many meal photos we would be taking.
A composite image shows the author's fellow diners at Noma and the flower soup they were served.Jenna Wilson, Page Ellerson
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Now it was time for one of my favorite dishes: sushi made up of peas and pumpkin seeds rolled in currant leather.
Peas and pumpkin seed sushi.Page Ellerson
The bottom of the bite was cheesy, and it was unexpected and heavenly.
A close-up shot of the pea sushi at Noma.Page Ellerson
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After this, an eggplant and mountain pepper came in an umami foam.
Eggplant served with mountain pepper.Page Ellerson
Next up was a dumpling stuffed with young garlic. This one was nice, but forgettable.
Millet and young garlic at Noma.Page Ellerson
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Then we had yuba with milk "skin," gooseberries, and courgette flowers. The milk skin was inspired by tofu skin they had seen in Japan.
Nordic yuba and beach greens at Noma.Page Ellerson
Asparagus tempura was next, wrapped in a leaf and presented in a nest that reminded me of something I could get at a craft store.
Asparagus tempura at Noma.Page Ellerson
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After this was a green rice and soy tofu dish that was decadent and heavenly.
Green soy tofu with green rice at Noma.Page Ellerson
Next was the crudité, and here I was introduced to ice plants, which may be the most insane thing I have ever tasted. It crackled and kind of reminded me of sour candy.
Crudité at Noma.Page Ellerson
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Finally, it was time for the main course, which was a king oyster mushroom with truffle that had been grilled on charcoal. This was wonderfully rich and decadent, melting on my tongue.
King oyster mushroom with truffle at Noma.Page Ellerson
Then it was time for the first round of dessert: berries with a cream sauce to pour over. Refreshing, but not the most exciting.
Berries with woodruff at Noma.Page Ellerson
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Then the strangest dish on the menu made an appearance — fuzzy ice cream. This molded onigiri was exactly what I was hoping for from Noma — delicious and a little unnerving.
Molded onigiri at Noma.Page Ellerson
It garnered a lot of discussion at the table.
Guests at the table discuss the molded onigiri dish at Noma.Page Ellerson
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Our last course was a magnolia flower with saffron, cardamom, caramel, and Mexican chili, presented with a beautiful knife to cut. It felt anticlimactic for the last course, but the salty-spicy tang was a perfect end to the meal.
Magnolia flower being cut with the knife at Noma.Page Ellerson
Something about the setting of Noma was so tranquil, and as everyone filed out, it was just our table looking over the empty restaurant and out into the gardens that created the ingredients that had fed us.
The interior of Noma.Page Ellerson
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We were presented with the menu and a goody bag of sauces we were nervous may break in our luggage.
The author holds a menu of the meal at Noma.Page Ellerson
Kinnery and I made sure to take an obnoxious amount of photos before leaving.
The author and her friend take photos outside of Noma.Page Ellerson
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Surprisingly, the staff didn't say anything to us about it as they prepared for the next seating. They were probably used to it.
The staff at Noma beginning of prepare the next meal.Page Ellerson
Looking back at the meal, I do wish the presentation had pushed the limits a little more.
A showcase of old utensils used in dishes at Noma in the past.Page Ellerson
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Though the presentation at our lunch seemed a little repetitive for Noma standards, the flavors were jaw-droppingly outstanding, and in the end, that's what matters most.