When the Michelin Guide to Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City dropped earlier this year, they really stirred the pot. Exasperated netizens took to social media and ruthlessly criticized the list, with a lot of anger targeted at the street food recommendations. "It's a scam," a food blogger friend told me. "Michelin wanted to create controversy," said another. "It's how they get the spotlight." Both friends wished to remain anonymous.
When I asked locals about the Michelin street food recommendations in Hanoi on the record, their words were more measured.
"The list is pretty predictable," said Văn Công Tú, who has led street food tours featured by news agencies such as The Guardian, The New York Times, and CNN since 2008. "It includes many of the street food vendors who already had a level of fame in Hanoi, places that have been on online lists and in guidebooks for a long time."
"Michelin were not wrong when they chose places that have been around for generations," countered Trương Quang Dũng, chef patron at Chapter and Habakuk, two restaurants featured in the guide — neither of which are street food. But Trương expressed disappointment that the Vietnam guide failed to uncover lesser-known spots. "Actually, some of the most interesting street food in Hanoi is not in the guide," he told me.
I agree.
When selecting establishments, inspectors at the Michelin Guide consider five criteria: ingredient quality, mastery of flavor, harmony of flavors, chef personality, and consistency. The focus is, understandably, on food.
As a travel writer based in Vietnam for over 10 years, I strive to recommend spots offering a unique dining experience — not just good grub. I take the food into account, but I also consider the atmosphere, the setting, the location, the story behind the establishment, and the uniqueness of the experience. With that in mind, here are my top street food spots in Hanoi.