I followed one of the world's most poisonous types of fish from the seafood market to a roadside stall in the Philippines, where it's turned into a $1.80 delicacy that's surprisingly addictive

Marielle DescalsotaAug 17, 2023, 06:43 IST

Puffers are cooked in stews in Cebu, Philippines.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

Puffers, one of the most poisonous types of fish in the world, are a delicacy in Cebu, Philippines.
I visited the Pasil Fish Market in the middle of the night to see how they're prepared for sale.

Puffer is one of the most poisonous types of fish in the world. But in some parts of the Philippines, it's eaten as a delicacy.

A typical Filipino dinner, comprising of garlic rice, pork crackling, fried spring rolls with green chili, deep-fried pork belly, and barbecued pork.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

I arrived at the fish market in the heart of Cebu just before midnight.

Pasil Fish Market in Cebu, the Philippines.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

Puffers caught by fishermen on the coast of Cebu were being cleaned and sold off at the market.

A local resident cleans pufferfish so that they're ready to be cooked.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

I later discovered that these puffers weren't really pufferfish, but were closely related to them, and contained the same toxin that kills people: tetrodotoxin.

A worker at the market cleans pufferfish with a knife and scissors — and without any gloves.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

Right outside the market, several small eateries were selling a popular Cebuano dish called "nilarang," which is made with porcupinefish.

A nilarang vendor right outside the Pasil Fish Market and slumMarielle Descalsota/Insider

The next day, I visited Pasil again. It was a weekday afternoon and buzzing with life.

A street in Cebu's Pasil neighborhood.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

Shantaya Eatery is a karinderya serving hundreds of plates of nilarang with porcupinefish every day. When I walked in, I found a taxidermied pufferfish hanging overhead.

A karenderya, or roadside stall, serving dishes made with porcupinefish.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

Shantaya Eatery is a karinderya serving hundreds of plates of nilarang with porcupinefish every day. When I walked in, I found a taxidermied pufferfish hanging overhead.

I met Crislee Obatay, a Pasil native and chef who has cooked turtle, eel, and now specializes in porcupinefish, in the middle of a busy lunch service.

Obatay the chef, has been cooking nilarang for decades.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

Linarang na tagutongan is one of the most popular dishes in Pasil. Dozens of people were lining up at Obatay's shop for lunch that day.

Dozens of people queue up every day to eat linarang made with porcupinefish.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

Obatay told me she purchases the cleaned tagutongan from the local vendor at the market and then brings it to her stall.

Porcupinefish comes skinned and ready to be cooked whole.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

She explained that porcupinefish liver is one of the most important ingredients in the dish. It's also the part that contains the most toxins.

Liver — where most of the toxins are — is mixed into the broth to add flavor.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

Finally, all the ingredients — including whole porcupinefish and pieces of its liver — were mixed together to form a hearty stew.

Other ingredients, like green and red chilies, are added to the broth.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

In the dining area, Obatay's staff members were rushing ingredients into the kitchen as people continued to pile into the restaurant.

There's also an area beside the main stall to wash the ingredients.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

So what does porcupinefish taste like? I tried it for myself and as cliché as it sounds, it tasted like chicken.

A bowl of porcupinefish stew accompanied by rice.Marielle Descalsota/Insider

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I followed one of the world's most poisonous types of fish from the seafood market to a roadside stall in the Philippines, where it's turned into a $1.80 delicacy that's surprisingly addictive

Puffer is one of the most poisonous types of fish in the world. But in some parts of the Philippines, it's eaten as a delicacy.

I arrived at the fish market in the heart of Cebu just before midnight.

Puffers caught by fishermen on the coast of Cebu were being cleaned and sold off at the market.

I later discovered that these puffers weren't really pufferfish, but were closely related to them, and contained the same toxin that kills people: tetrodotoxin.

Right outside the market, several small eateries were selling a popular Cebuano dish called "nilarang," which is made with porcupinefish.

The next day, I visited Pasil again. It was a weekday afternoon and buzzing with life.

Shantaya Eatery is a karinderya serving hundreds of plates of nilarang with porcupinefish every day. When I walked in, I found a taxidermied pufferfish hanging overhead.

I met Crislee Obatay, a Pasil native and chef who has cooked turtle, eel, and now specializes in porcupinefish, in the middle of a busy lunch service.

Linarang na tagutongan is one of the most popular dishes in Pasil. Dozens of people were lining up at Obatay's shop for lunch that day.

Obatay told me she purchases the cleaned tagutongan from the local vendor at the market and then brings it to her stall.

She explained that porcupinefish liver is one of the most important ingredients in the dish. It's also the part that contains the most toxins.

Finally, all the ingredients — including whole porcupinefish and pieces of its liver — were mixed together to form a hearty stew.

In the dining area, Obatay's staff members were rushing ingredients into the kitchen as people continued to pile into the restaurant.

So what does porcupinefish taste like? I tried it for myself and as cliché as it sounds, it tasted like chicken.