Hawker Chan was once the world's cheapest Michelin-starred eatery. But even without the coveted star, the Singaporean hawker brand still sells 1,000 dishes a day.
- Hawker Chan was one of the world's first street food stalls to be awarded a Michelin star.
- Founder and chef Chan Hong Meng said losing the star was "a blessing" that motivated him further.
Chan Hong Meng's journey to becoming one of Asia's most iconic chefs wasn't easy.
The Malaysian-born chef started as an apprentice at a Hong Kong restaurant when he was just 18 years old. It took over two decades before he decided to open up his hawker stall — aptly named Hawker Chan — in 2009.
And in that tiny stall at Singapore's Chinatown Food Center, he served thousands of hungry patrons his version of chicken rice — the city-state's de facto national dish — which comprises roasted chicken, seasoned rice, and soya sauce.
In 2016, Chan was catapulted into stardom when his stall was just one of three street food eateries awarded a coveted Michelin star — a distinction once reserved for only the greatest of haute cuisine. Media outlets then dubbed his $2.25 signature dish the world's cheapest Michelin-starred meal. During a recent visit to his 78 Smith Street restaurant, Chan told Insider that customers lined up for up to five hours for a taste of his food.
"I became a celebrity overnight. The whole world knew about me and my food. It's a childhood dream that came true," Chan, 56, said in Chinese.
But five years later, Michelin dropped Chan's stall from its list. It came as a shock to many foodies around the world — but not Chan. He knew his time in the limelight, Chan said, would eventually come to an end.
"When I lost the star, I didn't give up," Chan said. "Whether or not I have the star, life moves on. It doesn't mean that I'll get angry or cry," he added.
Chan continued to persevere. Just a year after his flagship stall lost its Michelin star, his fast-casual offshoot on Smith Street earned its place on the Bib Gourmand — an award prized among hawkers, listing only the best food served at "a reasonable price." It's awarded by Michelin to eateries that have a "simpler style of cooking," and often have budget price points.
"The Bib Gourmand gives me the motivation that my food is on the right track, and that we're not losing our way or direction," he continued.
Today, plates of Chan's chicken rice are still selling like hotcakes. Hawker Chan has since become a global brand, with dozens of stalls in Singapore and eight other countries, including Australia, China, and Kazakhstan.
Chan estimates that his outlets collectively serve 1,000 meals a day. And he's not done expanding his brand — this month, he said, Hawker Chan is heading to India to host a pop-up restaurant and test the waters.
"I want people to continue eating Hawker Chan for generations, all over the world," Chan said, adding that he "wants people to think of chicken rice when it comes to Singapore food, and Hawker Chan when it comes to chicken rice."
After working in the industry for almost 40 years, Chan is no stranger to criticism. In recent years, food critics and patrons alike have noted a drop in standards regarding Chan's food.
Insider previously reported that many Singaporeans felt that hawkers often suffer a decline in food quality after being awarded the Bib Gourmand.
"If you catch Mr Chan during his shift at the original stall, you'll find that the food is still great and the price cheap. But the outlets are pretty bad — overpriced and honestly not up to standard," said local foodie Jeanette Lee.
"Your humble mom-and-pop recipe has to be so well replicated. I think they failed because they just cut and paste," renowned local food critic KF Seetoh said.
But Chan reassures his critics that his recipe and how he prepares his dishes remain the same as when he first received the Michelin star several years ago.
"All the chicken is made in-house, and only sauces are made in a centralized kitchen and disseminated to the outlets. Dishes are cooked every few hours, in batches, for freshness," Chan said.
"Some people like my food, others don't. I take all criticism in stride," he added.