- Both
Five Guys andIn-N-Out fast-food chains have massive followings. - On a recent trip to
California , I tried In-N-Out for the third time.
It's an age-old rivalry: an East Coast-born burger chain versus its fast-food foe of West Coast fame. Burger and fry fans rally behind their favorite chain as soon as a conversation of Five Guys versus In-N-Out starts, and I wanted to pit the two head-to-head, critically, for the sake of my own
Admittedly, I've been a Five Guys fan for nearly a decade. The chain started as a restaurant in Arlington, Virginia, but my love affair started around 13 miles away in Maryland. What was originally just an easy spot for game-day lunch quickly became the site of many personal memories.
In-N-Out's story began with a drive-through stand in Baldwin Park, California, but I learned about it as a social status on Instagram. It's an accessible meal that allows anyone to feel and look like Los Angeles celebrities, so long as you snap a photo of your animal-style fries and double-double with cheese.
I first had In-N-Out at 18 years old. I'm not sure whether I ordered the two-patty classic, or if I went single patty, but I remember getting my fries animal-style — every In-N-Out die-hard I've spoken with says that's the only way to do it.
That first visit was exciting, but the
After years of being told that I must have ordered wrong if I didn't like In-N-Out, I gave the chain another try. Still, I was underwhelmed. As someone who now writes about food for a living, I thought it best to try again — this time with a more detail-oriented eye.
So on a recent trip to LA, I took a California native with me to sample some of the chain's finest. I ordered two servings of animal-style fries (one well-done, the other regular), two orders of plain fries (also with the varying cooks), one double-double animal style, one Neapolitan milkshake, and his personal favorite: one double-double animal style with extra grilled onions, extra spread, and chopped chilies.
Even after my latest visit to In-N-Out, I wasn't all that impressed and I still prefer Five Guys. Here's why:
In-N-Out's fries don't taste as fresh as Five Guys'
Every In-N-Out fan I've spoken with admits the fries on their own aren't great, but that animal style is their salvation. I agree, but even with the special sauce, grilled onions, and cheese on top, I still think they're not good. To spread the toppings around, you have to order the fries in a to-go container and shake them vigorously. After shaking my fries and letting them sit for just a few minutes, though, I found that the whole dish congealed into a block. That said, if you can eat the topped potatoes fast enough, I think they're delicious.
In my experience, Five Guys does a better job with its fries. The fast-food chain's boardwalk-style fries retain their oily, salty flavor and mashed-potato texture for an hour after being pulled from the fryer. That texture is the goal at Five Guys, where they use a washing, soaking, and double-frying process. I find their longevity impressive.
Unlike In-N-Out, Five Guys serves hot sauce
"But they have the chilies!" In-N-Out fans might say. But chilies and hot sauce aren't interchangeable. Imagine, for example, ordering jalapeños on nachos and receiving hot sauce instead. I'm someone who loves a nice hot sauce/barbecue sauce combination on my burgers, so while the chilies are tasty, they just don't cut it for me.
It all comes down to the bun
A bun can make or break any sandwich. For me, the sub-par bread component at In-N-Out is the downfall of this burger. I think the bottom piece is too thick, and the bun overall is dry.
Five Guys uses sesame seed buns that are less chewy than potato rolls but provide a touch of sweetness while introducing the savory tang of yeast. I've tried four burgers at In-N-Out — on three separate visits to two different locations — and each time, the bun added nothing to my meal.
Take away the bun and you've got yourself a very solid burger — juicy, flavorful, and with imperfectly shaped edges, it is comparable to the patty at Five Guys. So maybe my mistake was not ordering it in a lettuce wrap? That will be my next try.
It's no secret that I've been a longtime fan of Five Guys, but a big part of me went into this taste test thinking the third time would be the charm for In-N-Out. Instead, I'm even more confident now that my East Coast favorite is worlds better.