A New Yorker tried 5 plain bagels from grocery-store chains and ranked them from worst to best

Right from the jump, I thought Trader Joe's plain bagels, which were $2.50, were unimpressive.

The packaging boasts of a "golden-brown exterior crust," but it was the lightest in color of all the bagels, and there didn't seem to be anything special about the exterior.

The outside was soft and squishy to the touch, but not in the springy way I like my bagels to be.

The bagels also seemed a bit flat, which didn't seem bagel-like. When I cut one in half, the excess bread was forced out of the sides, making the bagel look almost foamy.

Trader Joe's plain bagels seemed to be fresh, but even after toasting, they didn't have a lot of texture.

I also didn't find the bagels had much flavor — they sort of felt like a really thick toast made with unsatisfactory bread.

Of the five bagels I tried, this was the only one I'd turn down if offered again.

The L'Oven Fresh presliced bagels, which were $2.60, looked like they might be found at a continental breakfast buffet at a chain hotel.

The bagels' exteriors seemed very slick and, despite being presliced, I thought the halves were still hard to pull apart.

The L'Oven Fresh plain bagels indeed tasted like something you'd get at a hotel breakfast: Inoffensive and sort of delicious.

There was a pleasant bit of chewiness, but I wasn't a huge fan of the aftertaste. Ultimately, it was an adequate delivery system for cream cheese.

The L'Oven Fresh bagels made an earnest effort, but to me, this was more of a roll.

The Whole Foods bagel was the largest of any of the ones I tried — at least by circumference — and had the darkest exterior.

But its weight felt wrong. It was very light and had a nice yeasty aroma, making it seem more like a pretzel than a classic bagel.

It was also a little pricier, as a six-count bag cost $6.50.

As I suspected, the Whole Foods bagel was very airy.

The dark crust, once toasted, offered a lot of texture and the interior of the bagel was adequately chewy. I didn't think they had a ton of flavor, even by the standards of plain bagels, but they had a hint of sweetness.

These didn't have the density I usually look for in bagels, but I thought they were well-suited to be the buns of cold-cut sandwiches, as they weren't overwhelmingly bready.

At first glance, Trader Joe's artisan kettle-boiled plain bagels were puffy and craggily. Similar to the chain's other bagels, they were also very light in color.

A six-count bag of regular Trader Joe's plain bagels cost $2.50 — a three-count bag of the artisan kind was $2.

But based on their appearance, I thought they were worth the extra money. I cut them in half to reveal a brilliant landscape of nooks and crannies their regular cousins didn't have.

Unlike all the previous bagels, the artisan Trader Joe's offering had the springy, chewy texture I associate with traditional boiled and baked New York-style bagels.

Though they might have been a touch short on flavor, I thought they were so much better than the standard Trader Joe's bagels.

In my opinion, the artisan kettle-boiled bagels definitely were of higher quality than the store's regular plain version.

Though items at Costco typically come in large quantities for remarkable prices, the Kirkland Signature bagels weren't especially inexpensive compared to what I usually get at the budget warehouse.

Two bags of six Kirkland Signature bagels cost $8, and there wasn't an option to buy only one pack.

Frustratingly, the packages were sealed with a piece of tape, so I also needed to find my own twist-ties to cinch them back up.

Packaging aside, they seemed like appetizing bagels, brilliantly brown and more substantial than most on this list.

The Kirkland Signature bagels were definitely the best of the bunch, in my opinion. They were appropriately dense, perfectly chewy, and seemed very fresh.

The flavor was fairly subtle, but there was a nice maltiness and yeasty-ness to these that all the other supermarket bagels lacked.

Would I choose them over a baker's dozen from a legitimate local bagel shop? No. But they're about ¼ the price, and I might successfully pass them off as local bagels if I happen to be serving them on a day I also go shopping at Costco.