The best part about traveling to Cuba is that you don't have to plan anything - here's why
Not booking ahead of time will save you money and direct more of your tourism dollars to actual Cubans, rather than the Communist Party or American corporations.
Once you get to Cuba, however, you realize the system actually works efficiently if you don’t book ahead. That’s because of the "casa particulare" system.
The casa particulare system allows certain Cubans to rent out rooms in their houses or apartments to tourists for 20 to 40 CUC per night in a sort of proto-Airbnb. (In fact, Airbnb has latched onto this system to rapidly expand in the country.)
The system has been around officially since 1997, when the government allowed casa hosts to register with the government as legal businesses, though reports say Cubans rented out rooms under the table for years before.
The casa system is like a home-stay, where tourists can stay with actual Cubans (although most are on the wealthier or more privileged side, and pay heavy taxes to the government).
"Casa particulares" are everywhere, marked by this blue insignia on the front of houses.
If you are looking for a place to stay, just walk around the neighborhood you want to stay in, find one of those signs and knock on the door. They'll usually have a room open.
If they don't, they'll be happy to find you a room with a friend of theirs (for a small commission), or you can just walk a little further until you find another one.
If the room they have available seems overpriced or not to your liking, either ask for them to arrange a different room or head back out to search on your own.
Your host will be knowledgeable about the best tourist activities (a guided tour, horseback riding, snorkeling, a taxi to the next city) and will be happy to arrange it for you. Again, for a commission of a couple dollars.
In addition, casa owners all will make a delicious breakfast or dinner for you for a relatively cheap price. And if you want to go out, they will have recommendations.
Or you can head into town and find a tour guide, taxi driver, or activity organizer yourself to avoid the commission.
There are no shortage of taxi drivers on the street who will travel distances both near and far, tour guides offering all different kinds of tours, and casa particulares to stay in.
Tourism is the best way to make money in Cuba, a fact underscored by the price of everything. The cost of one night in a casa particulare costs about the same as most Cubans’ monthly salary.
One note: There are two crucial parts to making the non-planning work.
1. Have a rough idea of how much things should cost;
2. Understand that asking another Cuban to arrange something for you will add a few dollars to the price.
You are more than welcome to haggle, but unless the price strikes you as unfair, I wouldn't recommend it. You're likely arguing over a few bucks in an impoverished country. Don't be greedy.
A few ballpark prices to remember (in CUC, which is roughly equivalent to US dollar):
These have likely changed slightly since last year when I visited:
- Casa particulare: 20-40 CUC/night, depending on quality (size of room, quality of bed, air conditioning, location, if breakfast is included, etc)
- Meals at casa: 5 CUC for breakfast, 10-15 CUC for dinner
- Taxi from Jose Marti International Airport to downtown Havana: 20-30 CUC
- Taxi between cities: roughly equivalent to the Viazul bus price for the route
- Taxi rides in a city: 2-12 CUC, but most should be around 3-5 CUC
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