I went to a polo match in one of the wealthiest towns in the US where tickets cost up to $1,000. Here's what it was like.
Anastasia Mills Healy
- I recently went to a polo match in Greenwich, Connecticut, one of America's wealthiest towns.
- The lowest ticket prices start at $50 per car and go up to $1,000 for access to the Players' Lounge.
One of the world's most spectacular settings for high-goal polo is located in Greenwich, Connecticut — nestled among tree-lined roads and chateau-style mansions, less than an hour's drive from Manhattan.
The gateway to New England, Greenwich is the first town in Connecticut as you cross the New York border. This proximity to Manhattan — as well as its beautiful beaches and parks, cosmopolitan vibe, and surprisingly low taxes — has drawn scions of high-earners, celebrities, and sports stars for generations. The median home value is $1.8 million according to Zillow, and listings in the double-digit millions aren't uncommon.
It's not surprising that one of the wealthiest towns in America would have a similarly high-profile polo club. Polo is called the Sport of Kings for a reason — royals have historically picked up mallets around the globe, but no matter a player's lineage, they need a princely sum to get in a game with multiple horses required, plus travel.
This club, the Greenwich Polo Club, was founded in Conyers Farm in 1981 by billionaire paper magnate Peter Brant, and hosts USPA matches every year.
I've attended polo matches here for years, and recently went to one of the club's Sunday matches with my daughter.
After passing the security guard at the front gate and following the road for a minute or so, we arrived at the entrance to the polo field where attendants scanned our ticket barcode.
There are many ticket tiers with the least expensive being $50 per car — all tickets are priced per car, allowing entry to the grounds for everyone in the vehicle.
When I came to my first polo match here years ago, I noticed how large the field was. For perspective, a football field is 100 yards while a polo field like this one is 300 yards.
The polo field is rectangular, with the scoreboard on the north side of the field, and white goals on both the north and south ends.
The only permanent building on the grounds is the Grandstand, but there's also a small, free contemporary art gallery, the Brant Foundation Art Study Center, on the southern part of the east side of the field that often opens before matches.
Polo matches take place at the Greenwich Polo Club on select Sunday afternoons from June through September. I've found that some attendees come to watch exciting, high-goal polo, and others are drawn to the opportunity to socialize with friends or entertain business clients.
We saw people setting up chairs and picnics on the East Lawn, which is about a five-minute walk from the parking area.
On the East Lawn, there's no food, bars, or bathrooms. Some of the seating here comes with either an umbrella or a tent, table, and chairs, but the least expensive $50 ticket only gives you access to a grassy area. If you have this ticket, you'll need to carry your own chairs and picnic items across the field.
Based on my prior visits, I think anyone who sits on the east side of the field should know that travel back to the west side is restricted during game play because it might distract the players and horses, and would also place spectators in danger of being hit by a ball or trampled by an out-of-bounds horse. Crossing sides is allowed only before and after the match and during the break at halftime.
I've been to this club many times, but I think finding where you're supposed to sit can be confusing for first-time spectators because the reserved seating areas are labeled only by small signs.
With that said, I think that if you're seated in the Grandstand, finding your seat is more obvious as it's the only permanent structure. Check the map, look for signage, and ask someone if you're not sure.
The Grandstand is at the center of the field and I think it has easy access to food, bathrooms, and everything else on the West Lawn.
Adjacent to the parking area and centered on the west side of the field, the Grandstand has shaded boxes with seats at the top and bleachers at the bottom. The higher-level bleachers are also shaded.
Bistro tables with umbrellas and chairs are set up in front of the Grandstand on the lawn facing the field. This side of the field is where the food trucks are, as well as the bars and bathrooms.
At the ground level of the Grandstand, we found refreshments and a retail shop.
The shop sold official Greenwich Polo merchandise like fleeces and baseball hats.
Before the match, we walked around the West Lawn and checked out attendees' picnic setups.
One group came prepared with an impressive food spread and a silver candelabra.
The different levels of tickets come with different perks — some ticket holders have access to the Players' Lounge, which is a tented area on the northwest end of the field. A further upgrade is a Players' Lounge Suite — a reserved shaded seating area in front of the Players' Lounge, which is where I sat this time.
We sat in the Players' Lounge Suite at the far end of the west side of the field — these tickets cost $1,000 and include five car passes and reserved shaded seating for 10.
When we first arrived at the tent, an attendant checked our names and gave us bracelets. The large Players' Lounge Tent has its own cash bar, live music, club merchandise for sale, and seating area. Access to the tent without a reserved "suite" is $175 for two people in one car.
Over decades of attending polo matches here I've sat in nearly every area and while it was fun to try out the Players' Lounge, my preference is the West Lawn Club, in front of the Grandstand. The $375 price includes one car pass, four chairs, and a bistro table shaded by an umbrella.
Insider received press passes for the polo match tickets.
In the Players' Lounge, the bar offers beverages including a $22 glass of Taittinger Brut Champagne and a $16 Aperol Spritz.
The official rules say that no outside alcoholic beverages are allowed on the west side of the field, but I saw more than a few attendees pouring bottles of their own wine.
However, I didn't see any polo players in the Players' Lounge.
The two-person band Mojo was playing hits from the `90s through today in the Players' Lounge as we arrived.
Gates opened at 1 p.m. with the match starting at 3 p.m. We arrived just after 2 p.m. to settle in before the players took the field.
In addition to the bar that's exclusive to the Players' Lounge, there are more food and drink options available to all attendees.
There's a bar called the Pony Bar next to the Grandstand and another place for refreshments under the Grandstand. I also saw a pop-up cart serving alcoholic Persian lemonade near the field.
Match tickets, at any price, do not include any food or drinks, just like at most other sporting events.
There were numerous food trucks on the West Lawn serving fare like tacos, gyros, pizza, and ice cream. I noticed that the food trucks were busy throughout the afternoon and the bars consistently had long lines.
I saw that there was a perpetual line for cocktails at the Pony Bar located next to the Grandstand.
Drinks were all made to order and the three bartenders never stopped moving, making cocktails like the tequila-and-watermelon-based Chukker.
If I had to guess, I'd say about 70% of attendees brought their own food and drink. If you were to buy gyros, beer, and water for two it would cost you $56, and if you splurged on lobster rolls and Champagne for two it would cost $108.
Guests could preorder gourmet snack boxes, or look for teens pulling a red wagon and flag them down for a $32 lobster roll.
I saw teenagers pulling a red wagon and offering lobster rolls made by the Greenwich Polo Club's official caterer, Marcia Selden Catering. It's also possible to pre-order upscale food boxes from this caterer with options like sushi and charcuterie.
Children are welcome at the club, and stay entertained with corn hole, snacks, and running around the field at halftime.
There were games like cornhole set up on the lawn, and some of the kids I noticed sat on the grass to watch the game.
Dogs are also welcome if they remain on leashes.
The pets I saw seemed to be having a great time relaxing with their owners on the well-manicured lawn.
There's no dress code for polo matches at the Greenwich Polo Club, but spectators definitely dressed for the occasion.
I didn't see one person over the age of 10 wearing a T-shirt, and many people looked as if they were attending a summer wedding. I saw women wearing floral dresses and wide-brimmed hats, whereas many men I observed sported colorful pants and loafers with no socks.
I saw a wide range of cars in the parking area that included a large number of Range Rovers, Lexus SUVs, and Mercedes sedans. Audi was a sponsor and had a whole tent on the southwest side of the field just for Audi drivers, who received free entry, so I also saw a lot of Audis.
There were no conventional restrooms available during matches, just portable restroom trailers.
We saw some next to the parking area by the Grandstand, and there was also a restroom trailer on the west end of the Players' Lounge.
A few minutes past 3 p.m., the players took the field for the national anthem and then the match started.
The Los Violines team and the Players Select CBD team immediately started battling for control of the ball.
At halftime just before 4 p.m., spectators were invited to walk on the field and stomp the divots, which are chunks of grass and dirt that horses kick up as they gallop.
Divots need to be pushed back down to even out the playing field so horses don't stumble. This is an ideal opportunity to check out everyone's fashion as they walk the field, drinks in hand.
It was an exciting, close match with Level Select CBD winning in the end 10-8, thanks to the prowess of 19-year-old player Max Gundlach, who was named MVP.
The match ended at 5 p.m. and a platform was set up in front of the Grandstand for an awards ceremony. The players' families joined them on stage, and media and guests gathered around to enjoy the celebration.
My daughter was itching to go home so we didn't stay for the festivities, but we did see a food cart roll onto the field full of meat skewers for a post-match asado, or barbecue.
Polo can be an expensive outing given the ticket cost and food and drink prices at the club, but if you're a fan of the sport, it's worth catching a match at the Greenwich Polo Club, and makes for a fun and social way to spend a Sunday afternoon.
If you're planning on attending a match before the season ends, I recommend bringing binoculars so you can more easily follow the match from wherever you're sitting. And if it's been raining, be prepared for a cancellation as it's dangerous to play on a muddy field.
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