The best suit overall
For your first good suit, the universally accepted rule among the fashionable crowd is to keep it gray — specifically a dark shade more commonly referred to as "charcoal." The reason for this is that charcoal is easily the most versatile suit color: It can be paired with both black and brown leather (shoes, belt, bag, etc.) and, unlike a black suit, it won't wash you out or make you look like a maître d'.
Our pick is this single-breasted notch lapel number from Brooks Brothers, the iconic clothing brand that has set the standard for American menswear. Style-wise, this suit from the company's American- and Italian-made 1818 line follows the English design pattern with a soft shoulder, slim cut, and side-vented jacket with flap pockets. The lapel is slim yet conservative, allowing it to work well with most neckties.
The trousers are flat-front and non-cuffed for a sleek, clean look as well. Brooks Brothers 1818 suits are made in the United States and Italy of fine Italian wool. We chose a two-button jacket because this style is the most common, versatile, and flattering on most torsos. Just remember to leave that bottom button undone.
A note about sizing: Suits that aren't sold as separates, such this one, typically have a six-inch difference between the jacket and pants size. For example, a size 40 suit comes with size 34 pants. This is called the "drop."
This isn't a problem for most, as tailors can usually take things in or out with about two inches of wiggle room, but it's something to be aware of. Nonetheless, the quality and versatility of this suit will make it your go-to for years or decades to come.
Pros: Made in the US and Italy of Italian wool, timeless and versatile English styling, charcoal gray goes well with everything
Cons: It's somewhat expensive, the suit is not sold as separates
The best suit for spring and summer
Lighter, more breathable suiting fabrics like linen, seersucker, and tropical wool can keep you surprisingly cool in the heat, and pairing these fabrics with light colors are the perfect way to beat the heat in style.
If you like to rock suits year-round (and you should) but you live in a place that can get a bit sultry, then a good summer suit is a must. Light grays, blues, browns, and off-white shades rule supreme here, as these brighter shades will reflect the sun's heat a bit while also allowing you to get more colorful with your outfits than you otherwise might with your more conservative charcoal and navy ensembles.
Our favorite summer suit is this linen one from J. Crew, made from a cotton-linen fabric blend (sourced from Portugal's Somelos mill) that allows it to circulate air and breathe more than a heavier wool weave. The cotton also gives the cloth more body than 100% linen, which, while cool, can all too quickly become a wrinkled mess, defeating the whole purpose of wearing a crisp suit.
To keep weight down, many summer suits do not feature a lining or canvassing at all. These "unstructured" jackets are decidedly more casual, but they're also considerably cooler. The Ludlow cotton-linen suit is one such example of a lightweight unstructured suit. Simple styling is also ideal for summer outfits, so we're sticking with the classic single-breasted notch lapel jacket with plain-front un-cuffed trousers.
The suitably slim English cut, with slim armholes, a soft shoulder, and dual jacket vents, is also timeless and always appropriate. Pair this J. Crew summer suit with any brown leather shoes and belt and a pair of classic shades, and you've got an unbeatable summer ensemble.
It's worth noting that the suit jacket and suit pants are sold separately, so you'll have to add them both to your cart — or if you only need one piece, that's also an option.
Pros: Made of breathable cotton-linen fabric sources from Portugal, the lighter shade is perfect for colorful accessories and light brown shoes, the slim English cut looks great
Cons: Pants are sold separately, the distinctly casual style and unstructured jacket limits the suit to spring and summer wear
The best suit for fall and winter
For colder weather, there's no reason you can't wear your go-to gray and navy blue suits. After all, those versatile ensembles can and should be worn year-round, and keeping warm is what overcoats are for. But when fall comes around and Old Man Winter follows, there's no better time to bust out some heavier wool suits and wear some warmer earth tones that are perfect for the cooler seasons.
Merino wool remains prized for its softness and warmth. Like suits themselves, this material now proliferates throughout the world, as it not only looks and feels great, but is ideal for any climes that experience cold and rainy weather. It's only fitting, then, that our favorite fall and winter suit is this premium Merino one from Indochino.
Indochino's half-canvassed Merino wool suit features a medium-weight weave, offering substantial warmth and texture without being too stifling when worn in the office. Its charcoal color with a touch of lighter grey is also perfect for when the sun is hiding behind clouds, and it provides a great backdrop for fall and winter ties and pocket squares — tartan plaids and deep colors are a great choice here.
The windowpane pattern adds a sophisticated touch and visual appeal to the otherwise plain color.
The great thing about Indochino is that you can customize the suit to your liking, from style details like the lapel and jacket vents to the sizing. Just know your measurements, remember that the fit rules still apply, and be prepared to take it to your tailor to get it "just right."
Pros: Warm and soft Merino wool, ideal for cooler weather, the jacket is half-canvassed, you can customize the style details and measurements, it's a solid value
Cons: It will likely still need some minor tailoring (common with all made-to-measure suits)
The best double-breasted suit
When you imagine a double-breasted suit, you might imagine the "Great Gatsby," "Boardwalk Empire," and other visions of the roaring '20s and '30s. But like the old-school wingtip shoe, this iconic suit has come back in a big way in the 21st century as more and more men are rediscovering classic menswear (due in no small part to the internet) and wondering why these great styles ever faded away in the first place.
As the double-breasted peak lapel jacket is a more unique style than your standard single-breasted two-button, I recommend avoiding a suit with any loud patterns or lighter colors. It's also a good idea to keep the jacket a little slimmer than the double-breasted suits of old, which usually featured a boxier cut and were wider in the trousers than today's menswear.
Our favorite is this double-breasted example from Charles Tyrwhitt. Made of super 110's wool, this suit features an English cut with all of the style details we love: soft shoulders, a slimmer fit, and dual vents in the back. You can customize the jacket and trouser size, but the unfinished pants offer enough material for you to go cuffed when you take it to the tailor if you prefer.
If you really want to nail that old-school look, and assuming it's appropriate for your workplace or wherever, wear your double-breasted suit with a pair of wingtip oxfords. Monk straps are another fine choice. Steer away from accessories that might make your outfit look too garish or costumey, and pair the suit with a nice modern dress shirt and necktie to bring your retro ensemble tastefully into the 21st century.
Pros: Great retro style that's been nicely updated with a modern English cut, made of 100% wool, and a half-canvassed jacket
Cons: The old-school aesthetic can enter "costumey" territory if not carefully paired with the right accessories
The best suit for black tie events
Unless you regularly find yourself at black tie events, a good suit made specifically for formal wear is probably the last one you need to buy. Nonetheless, when you're building a stable of traditional menswear, it's good to have one proper tuxedo in your rotation.
You could always opt to rent a tuxedo when you need one, but it's not going to be tailored for your body, and you're actually not saving that much money. Although you won't be wearing it as often as your other suits, a quality tux like this deep black single-breasted example from Indochino is the perfect piece to round out your wardrobe.
Like other Indochino suits, the Hampton tuxedo is half-canvassed. The super 140's wool is a soft blend of Merino and cashmere with a touch of silk, and the jacket features a satin tuxedo lapel. A tux should be sleek and clean-looking and the slim cut of this suit hits that style nail on the head. It's fully made-to-measure and the details can be customized, but I recommend sticking with the classic two buttons and peak lapel for a dinner jacket. The vent style is up to you.
Since the Indochino Hampton tuxedo is still technically a suit, the same tailoring rules still apply, along with some additional caveats as to how you should wear it. Your tie, generally a bowtie, should be black and, if wearing cufflinks or studs, avoid anything gold or colored (wedding bands are exempt from these rules). Keep your metals silver and accessories black and white, and skip the wristwatch.
Pros: Made of a soft Merino and cashmere blend with a touch of smooth silk, slim English-style cut, sleek formal styling, a half-canvassed jacket for proper drape and lapel roll
Cons: It'll be the least versatile suit in your rotation
How to choose a good suit
Suits are a complex garment, and it would take awhile to cover every single detail of their construction. However, here's a quick-and-dirty beginner's primer of the two most important construction considerations (not including style and fit, which depends on your unique) tastes and body type) to keep an eye out for when shopping for a good suit:
The Fabric
Suits come in a variety of fabrics, the most common being wool. Cotton, linen, and blends of these are also popular among lightweight spring and summer suits, but no matter what type of suit you're looking for, always avoid synthetic fabrics. Cheaper suits are generally made with these inferior materials to keep costs low. Suiting wools are typically marked as "super" followed by a number, referring to the size of the yarn, but don't get too caught up with this.
Synthetic fabrics like polyester are uncomfortable to wear — not least of all because they don't breathe — and they don't look good because they do not drape on your body as well as natural materials.
In contrast, a shell of a suit jacket made from quality natural fabrics will breathe, fit, and move better, making you look and feel better throughout the day. Even in warm weather, a light "tropical" wool weave can keep you cool in the heat, although cotton and linen blends are also ideal for this.
The Interlining
The interlining is the part of the jacket you don't see, as it rests between the shell and the lining. You will feel it, however, and it gives your jacket much of its shape and structure, so it's a vital consideration. The general rule of thumb here is to avoid glued interlinings. These are made from a material known as "fusible," which is heated and turns to glue, adhering the shell to the lining. These are stiff, don't breathe, don't drape well, and can even come loose and start to form air bubbles over time.
Instead, get a suit with a free-floating canvas or half-canvas interlining. These are made from natural fibers like horsehair, making them more breathable and comfortable to wear while giving the jacket a nice drape and the lapel a rolled appearance.
An increasing number of mid-range suits are half-canvassed, meaning that the chest and lapels of the jacket are canvassed. Canvassing requires more handiwork to make, so it's naturally more expensive than a glued suit, but remember: A suit is more than a purchase, it's an investment.
Pair your suit with a clean white dress shirt
- The best white dress shirt overall: Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece dress shirt
- The best lightweight summer shirt: T.M. Lewin cotton/linen dress shirt
- The best French-cuff dress shirt: Charles Trywhitt French cuff dress shirt
- The best Oxford cloth button-down: Brooks Brothers Oxford cloth button-down
- The best budget white dress shirt: The Tie Bar pinpoint dress shirt