The Betsy isn't another Art Deco Miami hotel - here's why I loved this arts-centric boutique property in the heart of South Beach

The Betsy Hotel South Beach has two entrances: the main lobby and check-in desk on Ocean Drive, and The Carlton Room, a gallery and coffee bar, on Collins Avenue. It's easy to get lost navigating the hotel if you don't know this. I did know, and still got turned around several times.

As I entered, two employees, one on either side, swept open the doors from the wraparound porch in greeting. They do this for everyone, almost as a precaution; celebrities fly under the radar all the time at The Betsy Hotel South Beach. Still, the deferential treatment seems to be the norm no matter who you are, and staffers take pride in going out of their way. One day it rained, and I saw them take a ticket to the valet stand for a woman who didn't want to get wet.

Entering from manic Ocean Drive, it's always a challenge to avoid pointy elbows. But once inside, I calmed almost immediately. Instead of the bright neons or pastels and geometric angles that other local properties boast, I was greeted by wicker living room settings with striped and floral print cushions. Carved wooden chess sets and stacked books sat on coffee tables; potted palms and colonial-style fans provided accents.

The lobby, surrounded by floor-to-ceiling windows, filled with bright Miami sunshine during the day and soft moonlight in the evening. The historic terrazzo floors are dominated by a grand piano churning out live jazz at happy hour, a concierge desk, bar and restaurant, and walls lined with museum-quality art that the owners curated themselves.

During my visit, the large public space was abuzz with families, business travelers, couples in search of romance, and groups looking for a South Beach party. It's an eclectic mix and more child-friendly than I was expecting.

Check-in was simple and easy, at the desk located directly across from the lobby's double doors. One staffer took my credit card for incidentals, another offered a bottle of water, and a third took my bag to the room.

The arts are the hotel's raison d'etre, and also my motivation for being there. The owners' father, Hyam Plutzik, was an award-winning poet, and as an homage to him, the hotel champions all kinds of creative outreach. One of those programs, Writers-in-Residence, invites scribes to the Writer's Room, a charming but sparse studio crowned with Hyam Plutzik's desk, for a few days at a time.

I was invited as a resident poet, which means that my room fee was comped along with the resort fee ($20).

Although my husband was able to visit with me in the 260-square-foot Writer's Room, I found it tight for two people. One night was fine, more than that would have been too close for comfort in both a metaphorical and literal sense.

Although roughly the same size and design as the standard Classic or Superior room with 250 square feet, it felt smaller because of the large writing desk, and shelves that burst with signed books left behind from published guests.

The Writer's Room is set aside exclusively for visiting wordsmiths, so hotel guests can't reserve it. But I wouldn't hesitate to return for a self-funded staycation in a 250-275-square-foot Classic or Superior room, which starts at $239 and varies based on time of year and the view selected. You'll find the lowest prices in summer when the city empties out and temperatures rise, though expect rates to surge up to $849 during high-occupancy weeks like Art Basel Miami and South Beach Wine & Food Festival.

Room decor was modest, especially in comparison to the more lavish lobby, with generic art and raffia headboards, though the bed was more comfortable and the room more soundproofed than other South Beach hotels I've stayed in.

The white-and-gray marble bathroom with walk-in shower was also small and it was hard to position my toiletries without packing and unpacking them daily. Still, it was elegant and sustainable, with no single-use plastics for Malin + Goetz products.

Ditto the minimal closet space. It was cramped for one person, let alone two. There weren't enough hangers for more than a couple of days' worth of clothing. There was an iron, which was helpful since I had to keep most items in my suitcase.

My desk doubled as the coffee bar, telephone and room service area, and mirror. The room had very little extra footage to move around in, with the light wooden bed frame close to the flat-screen TV and bookshelf stocked through a partnership with local independent bookseller Books & Books. Mostly, the room is a place to sleep.

If you'd rather splurge on space and a feel of the level of luxury The Betsy is known for, book one of the Royal Suites, which are decorated identically but include living areas, balconies, and 200-650 additional square footage. They start at $659 and go up to $2,199 in high season. There is also the Skyline Penthouse, which features photography by the Plutziks, a family heirloom chandelier modeled after those in the Vienna Opera House, a grand piano, and wraparound terrace, starting at $1,699 and shooting way up from there.

Since most people come to Miami to hit the beach or explore the city, a Classic or Superior room offers the best value. But if business is the plan, a suite might be in order.

Given my small room size, I spent some time writing in the lobby over a glass of Domaine Doudeau-Leger Sancerre ($15). The only problem I had was with the outlets, many of which were stripped. When I didn't need electricity, I escaped to the hotel's secluded rooftop with seats hidden in lush foliage.

For main meals, LT Steak & Seafood, under the rich touch of French chef Laurent Tourondel, serves three meals per day. I found it pricey, although not out of line with other restaurants of its genre, with expertly-cooked steaks starting at $45 for an eight-ounce filet. Lunch is more reasonable.

I also ate in The Carlton Room, where the espresso bar offers local Panther Coffee and light fare like almond croissants and empanadas.

The Alley is another on-site offering, an Italian restaurant that was less-expensive and family-friendly. Like elsewhere, the walls were filled with art; here, you can view actor Val Kilmer's work and that of local documentary photographer, the late Andy Sweet.

The Poetry Rail is a public art installation at the entrance to The Alley. As part of my residency, I gave a reading of my work here, and there are frequent similar activations, especially during At Basel in December, and National Poetry Month in April.

For more arts and entertainment, the off-lobby B Bar hosts concerts, readings, book signings, and lectures. Likewise, the third-floor Library hosts readings and author events. To get there, take the lobby elevator only if you're not claustrophobic. It's approximately the size of a New York City studio kitchen and lined with book covers from Writer's Room guests and local authors.

This is a pet-friendly hotel, and the Plutziks walk around with their CEOs, a.k.a. Canine Executive Officers, Golden Retriever Betsy, and English Retriever Rosa. You can even attend Canine Executive Officer happy hour on Friday at 5 p.m. in the lobby.

As a dog person, I spent several minutes happily schmoozing with the animals. As it turns out, this is one of the hotel's most well-attended events.

Take any of the elevators to the rooftop Ocean Deck, where one of the pools is located as well as another bar, sunrise yoga sessions, and the Wellness Garden and Spa where you receive a poem with every treatment.

The first-floor fitness center is small, but well-stocked with weights, treadmills, and a pair of Peloton bikes. Although I saw guests on the machines, I think running on the beach or taking a guided bicycle tour of the Art Deco District is a better way to exercise in Miami. The concierge can also connect you with a private trainer to work out on the premises or the beach.

There is also a ground floor pool, located off the back of the lobby, which is a bit busier and less private, as both guests and staff take shortcuts through here. I spent some of my sunbathing time here, as well as on the beach near the brightly painted lifeguard stand. I didn't find my way to the rooftop pool until the end of my stay, which was too bad as the pool had great views of both the city skyline and beach.

If you prefer not to eat on-site, South Beach abounds with options. For family fun, check out Sugar Factory. For Mexican brunch and margaritas, Pink Taco awaits. If you fancy serious and divine fare, reserve a table at Stubborn Seed by Jeremy Ford, or head to Sunset Harbour on the west side of South Beach, where NaiYaRa, Sushi Garage, and Stiltsville Fish Bar are all excellent choices.

Nearby, the Lincoln Road walking mall also has numerous cafes as well as food halls The Lincoln Eatery and Time Out Market Miami.

Española Way Historic District is another multi-block street to stroll, shop, and dine. Havana 1957, with several locations on South Beach, is reliable for good Cuban food. Pane e Vino makes its own pasta.

Ocean Drive itself, while touristy, is worth exploring if only for viewing the stunning, restored Art Deco architecture. Don't miss at least glancing at The Villa Casa Casuarina, the former Gianni Versace mansion. On Collins and Washington avenues, which run parallel, nightclubs, bars, and boutiques are all interspersed.

The hotel has a 4.5 out of 5-star rating from 3,752 reviews on Trip Advisor and an 8.4 out of 10 rating on Bookings.com.

In general, visitors love the excellent service, high-end and artsy amenities, the beach access, strong food and drink, and pet-friendly perks. They also enjoy the walkability of the location.

The arts activations seem to be a revelation for many guests. At an event in The Library, a British guest confessed to me that she had no idea this programming existed. Nevertheless, she was thrilled. Similarly, another couple I spoke with stopped in for coffee in The Carlton Room, and actually switched hotels after seeing what The Betsy had to offer.

When there is a problem, it usually has to do with room size. Past guests have complained about the restricted space for the price, as well as the lack of storage and unpacking space, which I experienced as well.

Who stays here: Guests from around the world looking to explore Miami Beach and South Beach, as well as local Floridians who want to immerse themselves in the arts and tour the Art Deco District. Celebrities who like to go unnoticed also book rooms here.

We like: The beach chic-meets-British tea room design vibe, which is so different from any other hotel feel in Miami right now.

We love (don't miss this feature!): Listening to live jazz and drinking cocktails in the Lobby Bar, and taking in the poetry readings at night.

We think you should know: There really isn't a middle-tier room type. If you plan on staying more than a couple of days, go all out and book a suite, but don't forget there is a daily resort fee.

We'd do this differently next time: I spent a lot of time enjoying the arts activations. Next time, I'd relax more on the beach and at the rooftop pool.

If you want to explore a historic hotel that lovingly nurtures the arts, while still offering prime beach and pool amenities, The Betsy Hotel South Beach is a great option.

The hotel is a cultural oasis in the desert of touristy Ocean Drive and offers wonderful customer service, excellent food and drink, unparalleled beach access, and permission to be as crazy about your dog as you want.

Located at the southeastern end of Miami Beach on famous South Beach, many rooms at the boutique hotel are small, but they're offset by the multitude of art activations and interesting public spaces for ample inspiration, while still catering to a high-end set that appreciates luxury-leaning design and ambiance.