Hotel review: If jazz were a hotel, it would look a lot like The Evelyn New York

The calm, low-lit atmosphere of The Evelyn was a welcome departure from the clamor of 27th street when I arrived on an autumn Sunday. It was warm, spacious, and smelled like a light cologne. A cafe bustled quietly across from the front desk.

At 3 p.m., it was mildly busy. The hotel mostly caters to business travelers, and many individuals seemed to be checking in on Sunday for a fresh start on Monday morning. I waited to be checked in for a few minutes (under 10) behind another small group. The process then took another five to 10 minutes.

I meandered into the lobby before finding my room, which was small but elegant. To the left, there was a waiting room that was about 40% occupied. Like the rest of The Evelyn, it lives comfortably in its own accessible elegance. The couches were deep and velvety with 1920s tufting backlit by expansive Art Deco windows and new skylights.

What I appreciated most about The Evelyn's renovation was that it felt like the embodiment of the New York jazz era, but not a 1920s cosplay of it, either.

Brass accents, straight-lined contemporary furniture, marble, and spins on old classics, like short, rounded dark leather chairs, made The Evelyn glamorous but not gimmicky.

The Evelyn maintained the building's original, early-1900s exterior and flooring in its recent renovation. The latter is spider-webbed and showed wear from many pairs of feet, which added to the throwback atmosphere.

I stayed in a Deluxe King room (approximately $250 and up per night), and was impressed by its balance of elegance and functionality.

It was good-sized for New York, which means it wasn't huge, but was not a closet, either.

Deluxe rooms offered the extra footage of the small inlet pictured above, with its chair and table and either a queen or a king. You won't be able to do cartwheels, but there's enough room to store luggage and sit at a writing desk.

Across from the bed was a flat screen TV, and the winged headboard had many outlets and USB ports on both sides, as did the desk's digital alarm clock. The Wi-Fi was complimentary (though it's included in the facility fee mentioned later), easy to connect to, and reliable.

The light was warm and dimmable, and the contemporary fixture was reminiscent of thin trumpets twisted together. The mattress was comfortable, and even though I sometimes have trouble falling asleep away from home, I slept well thanks to the utter darkness the room provided.

There was, however, a faint, continual background noise similar to cicadas in the room. I didn't hear our neighbors, but I needed white noise to fall asleep. If you're sensitive to sound, you may not appreciate that.

The room was very nice, but the bathroom was my favorite. The honeycomb tiled floors were heated, the shower had multiple shower heads with good pressure and temperature control, and the robes were plush and soft. The bathroom also had high inlaid windows, which filled the room with a pale, bright light.

The only downside was it was difficult to drag myself out of a hot rainfall-shower in the morning to head to work. This is one of the best hotel problems to have, though.

The shower tiles were also decorated with Evelyn Nesbit lyrics, which included the names of nearby New York City streets. Like the rest of the decor, it was a fun nod to the city without teetering into cheesy territory. I've lived here for six years, and it still put a smile on my face to read them.

The toiletries were from Five Wits, an "eco-luxury" brand headquartered in TriBeCa that smelled fresh and gender-neutral.

The positives of my room far outweighed any negatives, but there was another downside I noticed.

The closet was shallow. While there are plenty of shelves, and it's equipped with the essentials like a safe, hairdryer, and an iron and ironing board, if you have long skirts, a dress, or want to hang a pair of pants in full, you're going to need to do it using the hook in the bathroom.

It was not a deal breaker, but something to be aware of, and likely the result of being a smaller-sized room.

While it's likely you're looking to venture off-site for a meal (you're in New York!), The Evelyn's food options are worth a trip in their own right. There are three — the bakery Leonelli Focacceria, the casual luxury Italian spot Leonelli Taberna, and the fine-dining restaurant Benno.

Leonelli Taberna has a good-sized menu that changes seasonally, a small expert staff, and delicious Roman-inspired Italian dishes that hover around $15.

If you're staying at the hotel Tuesday-Saturday, try Benno. It's the crown jewel and was recently awarded a Michelin star despite Michelin being notoriously stingy about awarding stars to Italian venues. There's also a speakeasy bar with excellent cocktails.

Though humble in comparison to the other options, I'll be going back to the cafe and bakery, Leonelli Focacceria e Pasticceria, as a local. The croissants were perfectly fluffy and crispy, and the shop had a lofted study space that most patrons don't know exists (read: not overcrowded).

The lofted study space features rows of beautiful coffee table books on the subject of art and design.

There's also a low glass overlook, so you can see down into the cafe and the street outside. It makes the small space feel airy, and the murmur of noise from below keeps the space lively enough so you can concentrate.

Other amenities include a small gym, but skip it, it's not worth the workout.

The Evelyn is central to many Midtown businesses and sightseeing. It's within minutes of Madison Square Park, the historic Flatiron Building, Bryant Park, and the Empire State Building. The hotel is a 20-minute walk to the Chelsea High Line, and a 20-minute subway ride from most everywhere else in the city.

The newly renovated Museum of Modern Art is a 30-minute walk away, and Museum Mile (Guggenheim, Metropolitan Museum, etc.) is on the subway line that's a five-minute walk from the hotel.

If you don't opt to stay in for dinner, try Quality Eats, ILILI, Her Name is Han, Covina, Upland, or Gramercy Tavern in the area.

The Evelyn has an 8.8-star rating on Booking.com and ranks 21 out of 506 hotels in New York City on Trip Advisor. Customers consistently rave about the location, service and staff, Art Deco aesthetic, and amenities like heated floors and on-site pastries.

And while The Evelyn scores well across the board, it consistently rates even higher among two-person travelers as a good stay for couples.

The most common complaints refer to small room sizes and a nightly $25 facility fee. This includes the hotel's complimentary wine hour in the lobby, Wi-Fi, New York Times, access to the fitness center, a neighborhood walking tour on the weekend, and 15% off laundry service.

I understand why the facility fee rubs travelers the wrong way. Many of the things included are labeled as complimentary, but they feel less so when you're technically paying for them.

Who stays here: A majority of business travelers throughout the week, with handfuls of tourists and some groups, especially on weekends.

We like: The cool, never gimmicky Art Deco decor and the friendly staff.

We love (don't miss this feature!): The food. No matter your budget, you can find a delicious option on-site at one of the three excellent eateries. Don't miss the spinach pasta lasagna or the grilled octopus at the Leonelli Taberna.

We think you should know: The hotel offers an hour-long complimentary wine hour in the lobby lounge on Wednesday and Friday evenings, and the cafe's semi-hidden study space has good personality and is much more atmospheric, and less crowded than Starbucks. And, even if you don't get a reservation at Benno, it's worth going to get a drink at the bar inside.

We'd do this differently next time: Book a stay while Benno is open (Tuesday-Saturday).

The Evelyn is cool like candlelit dinners and ragtime are cool. It pays homage to the neighborhood's musical and artistic heritage without making the space feel like a time capsule. And its amenities, like heated bathroom floors and rainfall-shower, are much-appreciated day-to-day perks.

The hotel ties together just enough of New York (local flowers, big-time chef, jazz lyrics with nearby street names) that it encourages a little bit of perpetual wonder about the city you're in. And its location is hard to beat.

I thought the size of the room was good for the location, but it may feel smaller than expected to some people.

But, perhaps best of all, are the three concept eateries from Chef Jonathan Benno. There aren't many places in New York that offer great breakfasts, $20-something pastas, and a Michelin Star restaurant and speakeasy bar all in one spot. The Evelyn does and it's strongly worth your consideration.