I'm a 31-year-old with fine lines and residual acne scars looking to shake up my skincare routine. A dermatologist told me to try azelaic acid and stronger retinoids.

• I'm a 31-year old with some forehead fine lines, hyperpigmentation, and dark circles.
• I showed a dermatologist my skincare routine and asked what I should change.

When the pandemic began and we had to start wearing masks everywhere, I got my first real bout of facial acne at the age of 28. Most masks, especially the medical-grade ones, made my sweaty skin underneath break out into tender zits (though conveniently, masks also helped cover them up, so 2020-2021 was basically a neverending, cystic catch-22).

While all my pimples have since faded, I still have some discoloration, including post-acne dark spots, that haven't gone away. Plus, there's the skin problem that takes up more brain space than I'd like: My forehead lines, which I've even tried taping away.

As part of Insider's Skin Clinic series, where we ask dermatologists for personalized skincare advice, I consulted dermatologist Dr. Erum Ilyas, a dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatology Group, to see if my current skincare routine is actually doing anything and what, if anything, I could try instead.

Azelaic acid might be a better choice for my dark spots

After reading our very positive review of Matter of Fact vitamin C serum about a year ago, I started using it every morning after cleansing my face with Tatcha's rice-based cleanser and before applying Elta MD UV Clear sunscreen. My skin tone now feels brighter than it used to, plus the cleanser and sunscreen feel like a luxurious step up from my usual drugstore go-tos.

While Ilyas said these are all "mild and reasonable products" and that she likes the vitamin C serum itself, it might not be doing much for my type of dark spots, which have pinker hues as opposed to tan or brown.

According to Ilyas, vitamin C products can help with sun damage-related spots by blocking an enzyme in the skin, but for acne-related hyperpigmentation, azelaic acid is one of the best options due to its anti-inflammatory benefits. It also has de-clogging properties and can help combat my oily skin in the summer.

Luckily, I don't have to give up my beloved vitamin C serum just yet: Ilyas said I can use both acids together, but I can reassess if it starts to feel overwhelming for my skin.

Prescription retinoids or stronger serums will yield better results

Along with the billions of TikTok users who love The Ordinary's products, I use the brand's Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion Serum, mostly for how affordable it is compared to other options.

Ilyas said more research needs to be done on the effectiveness of this particular product, but that if I've seen results, it's worth continuing. Since I started using it about six months ago, my skin has felt slightly tighter and more even-toned in my opinion. I also haven't had any irritation, so I think I can probably handle more heavy-duty stuff.

"If you have maxed out its use and not seen much change in these forehead lines, it may be worth checking with your dermatologist if you are a candidate for a stronger retinoid," Ilyas advised. She said I can also try an adapalene 0.1% product like Differin, a retinoid that you can now buy over the counter.

While Differin is designed to deal with severe acne, I wouldn't mind a more airtight defense against the occasional period pimple. When my current retinol runs out, I might give it a try.

My makeup removal routine could be leading to overdrying

Fairly recently, I ditched makeup wipes for Bioderma micellar water and cotton pads, which makes makeup removal more effective and involves less rubbing.

I also fell in love with my Tatcha face wash and started using it instead of my usual CeraVe cleanser.

Ilyas said the dual combo of micellar water and Tatcha face wash had no benefits but could risk "overdrying the skin by stripping natural oils."

It's an easy swap: I can keep my Tatcha face wash for the mornings, and then switch to CeraVe (which is gentler and has hydrating benefits) for the night. Plus, Tatcha is pricier, so this helps me stretch the product a little longer.

A trendy LED wand may have an unexpected benefit

For a future story, I'm currently testing the celebrity-loved and Instagram-famous Solawave, a vibrating massage wand that uses LED therapy to reduce fine lines and acne.

Ilyas is skeptical about this product, saying that for LED therapy to work, you have to hold a device (like a mask) over an area for an extended period of time.

"I have not been able to understand how this product could have tangible results by passing over the skin," she said, noting that the Solawave website doesn't provide much clarity, either.

However, it could have a hidden benefit: Depuffing my eyes.

I've had eye bags forever, so I figured I'd ask Ilyas about them, too. While all dark circles are different, she said lymphatic drainage (achieved by gently massaging the skin to redistribute fluid buildup) could potentially help.

I noticed the Solawave is meant to be used like a jade roller in how I move it across my face, so if it doesn't do anything else, I think it might be the secret to dealing with a skin problem I long since had given up on fixing.