If you never wore sunscreen in your 20s, it's not too late to reverse skin damage — here's how
- Sun damage can cause uneven skin tone, premature aging, and dark spots.
- If you tanned a lot in your youth or barely wore sunscreen, it's not too late to repair your skin.
For the most part, I loved how easy my early 20s were. I had gaps of free time, could mix tequila and whiskey without wincing at the thought, and got a deep, golden tan whenever I refused to wear sunscreen (which was always).
Yes, I routinely rotisseried my body without proper sun protection, and now, in my early 30s, my skin is paying the price.
According to Dr. Ivy Lee, a board-certified dermatologist practicing in southern California, some of the consequences of not wearing sunscreen in my youth vary from mild — including uneven pigmentation, dark brown spots, and premature aging à la fine lines and wrinkles — to severe, like melanoma.
Even though I'm now someone who goes to annual skin cancer screenings and wears sunscreen every day, it doesn't change the fact that my forehead lines probably came in early or that I have a few new spots I don't remember from a decade ago.
Considering how many Americans don't wear sunscreen, I don't think I'm alone in wanting to undo some of the havoc my reckless 22-year-old self wreaked. So, I asked Lee for her tips on reversing sun-damaged skin; here's what she said.
Make sure you're protecting your skin for real now
Obviously, additional exposure to UV rays will likely undo any progress in treating sun-damaged skin.
To stay safe and look your best, Lee said that "daily sun-protective habits — sunscreen, hats, protective clothing, and seeking shade — are essential."
Previously, she told Insider that mineral broad-spectrum sunscreen that's at least SPF 30 is your best bet, as it will have physically blocking ingredients like iron oxide, zinc oxide, and titanium dioxide. (If you're worried about white cast or greasiness, there are plenty of lightweight options.)
Vitamin C serums and retinoids can reverse dark spots
According to Lee, most people will benefit from incorporating some sort of vitamin C product and retinoid into their daily routine, as both products increase cell turnover and boost collagen production, keeping skin looking fresh.
"For retinoids, I strongly prefer prescription-strength options," Lee said, recommending tretinoin and tazarotene.
As for vitamin C serums, some of her favorites include Revision Vitamin C Lotion, which has a 30% concentration of vitamin C, as well as Drunk Elephant C-Firma Fresh Day Serum and SkinCeuticals C E Ferrulic, which each have a 15% vitamin C concentration.
In-office procedures will give you more drastic results
If you wish to speed up the process or fade really stubborn creases (and have more money to spare), Lee said there are lots of in-office procedures you can try. Microneedling, laser treatments, and intense pulsed light (IPL) are all procedures that can speed up skin cell turnover, minimizing or even erasing dark spots and wrinkles.
If you have a more specific problem, like uneven skin tone from sun exposure, chemical peels can offer a nice refresh, while injectables like Botox can decrease fine lines. Your dermatologist will be able to recommend a treatment plan based on your skin issues and budget.
Luckily, modern skincare innovations can help us at least somewhat undo the mistakes of our youth — at least, on a cosmetic level.