If you have both acne and dry skin, then your skincare routine may be to blame - here's how to fix it

• Dry skin doesn't necessarily cause acne, but the products that you use to treat one issue may be worsening the other.
• For example, cleansers that strip your skin of oil may be leading to flaky skin, and moisturizers that are meant to keep your skin hydrated may actually be clogging your pores.
• To treat both dry skin and acne at the same time, dermatologists say to choose gentle cleansers, oil-free moisturizers, and add a hydrating serum and sunscreen to your routine.

The changing of seasons can wreak havoc on acne-prone skin, and winter is no different. If you're struggling with dryness on top of acne this season, these dermatologists have the answers for you.

Can dry skin lead to acne?

Dry skin may lead to acne if you aren't using the right skincare routine, says Diane Berson, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in private practice in New York City and faculty member in the department of dermatology at Weill Cornell Medical College.

Here's why:

Your cleanser may be too harsh for winter. If you are acne-prone, your skin may benefit from stronger cleansers in the summertime to combat sweat and oil, Berson says. But once winter hits, the effects of cold air outside and dry heat indoors might be too much for your skin to bear - leading to dry, flaky, and inflamed skin.

If you're breaking out on top of that dryness, you might think increased oil production is to blame. But that's a myth, says Berson. "When you dry out the skin, it's not necessarily that your oil glands work harder to lubricate the skin," she says. The production of sebum, the oil produced by our sebaceous (oil) glands, is caused by hormones, stress, diet, and genetics - not the moisture level of your skin.

Harsh cleansers can disrupt your skin's barrier function, the complex set of mechanisms that allow our skin to keep moisture in and keep germs out. This can cause inflammation of the sebaceous follicles, aka your pores, which then leads to acne.

Your moisturizer is too heavy and clogging your skin. Winter weather might make you want to reach for more intense moisturizers, Berson says, but those heavier products can be a no-no for oily skin, even when you're experiencing dryness in winter.

"As a result of using a heavier moisturizer to combat the dryness of the skin, they might find that they're more likely to get clogging and breakouts," says Berson.

How to treat dry skin and acne

Since your skincare routine may be at the root of what is causing your acne and dry skin, it's important to pick the right products.

Which cleanser to choose: You should make sure you're using a gentle cleanser, says Sonya Kenkare, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and assistant professor of dermatology at Rush Medical College in Chicago. Kenkare recommends a hydrating cleanser from drugstore brands like CeraVe and Cetaphil.

Avoid foaming cleansers, she says, because they have more detergents that can cause further dryness. Aim to cleanse and moisturize your skin twice a day. And make sure you get a cleanser with the right ingredients for your skin type.

Which moisturizer to choose: Pick a moisturizer that is oil-free and noncomedogenic, which means it won't clog your pores, says Kenkare. Timing is important, too. You should moisturize while your skin is still damp, says Berson, and when you're drying off, pat gently, don't rub.

"You're actually going to help seal in the moisture and make the skin feel better hydrated. If you just dry off and walk away, every time you do that, you're drying out your skin more because the moisture evaporates from the skin and takes more moisture with it," Berson says.

Add a serum: If an oil-free moisturizer isn't cutting it, Berson has another recommendation: "When I have patients who need hydration, but not necessarily greasy moisturization, I recommend they choose a hydrating serum."

She says to look for serums with ingredients like hyaluronic acid and glycerin, which help hydrate the skin, and niacinamide and ceramides, which can calm down inflamed skin and help repair barrier function.

Wear sunscreen: Finally, Kenkare recommends sunscreen for those dealing with acne and dry skin. Acne can lead to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (dark spots) for people with darker skin and post-inflammatory erythema (red spots) for people with lighter skin, and those effects become exaggerated with dry skin and sun exposure.

Both doctors agree that it's always a good idea to see a dermatologist if your skin is in distress, especially because your skin has different needs in different seasons. A dermatologist can also recommend appropriate prescription treatments for your acne, like topical or oral retinoids or hormonal medications.

"I don't recommend purchasing products simply because they are popular at that moment," says Berson. "[A dermatologist] is going to tailor the recommendations to your skin type and to what's going on with your skin."

Insider's takeaway

Switching up your skincare routine with gentle cleansers, oil-free moisturizers, and hydrating serums can help get your skin in check when acne and dryness strike at the same time. But when in doubt, consult with a board-certified dermatologist, who can customize a skincare regimen just for you.

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