A dermatologist weighs in on the biggest TikTok skincare trends — and which ones are actually safe, effective, and eco-friendly

• A dermatologist and cosmetic chemist weighed in on 2022 beauty trends that are both effective and good for the environment.
• Some trends, like "slugging" and skin cycling, create less waste by encouraging the use of existing products.

From sleeping in a Vaseline mask to taping your face, skincare trends in 2022 encouraged social media users to try out new methods for healthy skin.

But many skincare trends that go viral on TikTok aren't effective, and might even damage your skin. The trends may also create unnecessary waste, which contributes to the 7.9 billion units of rigid plastic created by US beauty companies in a year.

Insider spoke with Dr. Joshua Zeichner, an associate professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital, and Aubri Thompson, a cosmetic chemist and sustainable beauty expert, to understand which TikTok beauty trends are both good for your skin and the environment.

Slugging: Dermatologist-approved, reduces waste, but uses fossil fuels

Slugging is a dermatologist-approved trend that can help use up leftover Vaseline bottles instead of creating waste.

Earlier this year, "slugging," or the process of applying petroleum-based products like Vaseline on the face overnight to restore moisture, went viral on TikTok. The trend may have originated in Korea as it's a popular K-beauty hack for people with very dry skin.

Though an overnight Vaseline mask might feel slimy and "gross" according to Insider reporter Charissa Cheong, Zeichner said slugging can help people with dry or irritated skin get an extra boost outside of their traditional moisturizer. He does not recommend the trend for people with oily or acne-prone skin that already feels greasy.

Thompson said the trend can help reduce waste by using up leftover Vaseline cases. However, this trend uses a fossil fuel-based product (petroleum). She said it would be better if users tried an eco-friendly alternative, such as the One-for-all Balm by CocoKind.

Pore vacuums: Bad for your skin, bad for the environment

"Pore vacuums" are devices that suck oil and dirt out of the skin that some social media users say help with "deep-cleaning" the skin.

But dermatologists don't recommend the device. Zeichner said pore vacuums won't prevent acne, and too much force can cause skin damage, especially for people using topical retinoids.

Not only ineffective, pore vacuums also aren't eco-friendly. Thompson said the device encourages users to purchase a new product, thus creating waste in the environment. And since pore vacuums are electronic, their e-waste contaminates the earth with toxic substances like lead, mercury, and arsenic.

Hydrocolloid bandages: Not the best skincare or eco-friendly option, despite using plant-based materials

Hydrocolloid bandages, or pimple patches, create a protective barrier around pimples to reduce bacterial contamination and prevent scratching. The patches also create a moist environment to promote healing and suck up fluid, Insider's Mara Leighton reported.

Though Zeichner said the patches can stop people from picking at their pimples, they don't prevent or treat acne the same way dermatologist-prescribed products do.

Thompson said hydrocolloid is derived from plant materials, meaning its biodegradable, but the bandage itself may not be compostable. She said to push companies that make pimple patches to do so in a sustainable way.

Skin cycling: Dermatologist-approved and eco-friendly

Dermatologist Whitney Bowe went viral on social media for her four-night skincare she calls skin cycling. Bowe suggests using a chemical exfoliation the first night, a retinoid the next night, and allowing for two days of recovery before repeating.

Zeichner said Bowe's method is great for sensitive skins that can't tolerate daily use of retinol or exfoliating agents. "Spacing out their use and introducing moisturizers on recovery nights can help maintain your skin barrier," he added.

Like with Vaseline, skin cycling is eco-friendly because it encourages the use of existing products rather than purchasing new ones, Thompson said.

Face-taping: Not an effective or eco-friendly option

Face taping, or applying tape (without stretching the skin) to areas where wrinkles might form, might encourage using up existing products, but non-biodegradable products will create plastic waste.

Plus, the trend won't work and can actually cause irritation from the adhesive against the skin, Zeichner said.

Calamine lotion: An ineffective acne treatment, but could reduce waste

Calamine lotion, like pimple patches, won't treat existing pimples. They reduce waste if you already have it on hand, but Zeichner and Thompson both recommend turning to other acne-treating methods.

Zeichner recommends using benzoyl peroxide, which lowers the level of acne-causing bacteria around the zit and reduces inflammation. "Plus the formula contains a blend of naturals that address the needs of the skin, including ingredients like linoleic acid to support the skin barrier," he added.

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