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A dermatologist told me everything I'm doing wrong in my skincare routine, and how to know if a product is worth it or not

A dermatologist told me everything I'm doing wrong in my skincare routine, and how to know if a product is worth it or not

Canela López

Dr. Heidi Waldorf, a cosmetic dermatologist, reviewed my skincare routine and told my everything I'm doing wrong.
My cleansing and moisturizing don't need to change. My rosehip face oil and witch hazel toner are a waste of money and not doing much for my skin.
Waldorf recommended adding in a retinoid and finding a new sunscreen.

I've never really thought I had "good" skin, the kind you see in the "after" photos on skincare commercials.

My skin is on the oilier side, and I get some hormonal acne on my jawline. But, for the most part, I've come to the conclusion that my skin is fine.

I also started testosterone this week — a hormone replacement therapy (HRT) used to treat gender dysphoria in trans and nonbinary people. I'm ecstatic, but not about possibly going through a second puberty, which could mean more acne.

Generally, I've learned how to keep spots under control, so I feel like I can handle it. But I talked to Dr. Heidi Waldorf, a cosmetic dermatologist, about my current skincare routine to see whether it stands up to scrutiny.

Waldorf rated my line-up, told me what I can keep, what I should add in to prevent break-outs, and how to assess whether a product is worth it or not.

I can keep my cleanser because it doesn't leave my skin feeling tight

I start and finish my day by cleansing my face with Glossier's Milky Jelly Cleanser. I don't typically wear makeup (thank you, quarantine), so I don't need a cleanser that can wash off foundation.

Waldorf said I can keep this in my routine because it doesn't leave my skin feeling stripped or tight — the best way to judge whether or not a cleanser is meant for you. If your face feels tight after using it, try a different cleanser.

If I start getting more acne, Waldorf recommends switching to a cleanser that contains salicylic acid , which helps your skin to shed dead cells and decreases redness and swelling in the process.

My witch hazel toner is just drying out my skin

After cleansing my face, I normally dab toner on my face with a cotton pad to get any residual dirt out in the morning and at night. According to Waldorf, I could toss my toner because it was just drying out my skin.

Toner is typically used to gently cleanse the skin without stripping your pores but can still end up drying you out in the process. Because I don't wear makeup, I don't mind cutting this step out of my routine.

For those who do, Waldorf recommends cleansing your skin with oil to remove the makeup and then using your regular facewash to replace the toner.

There's no need for my post-toner rosehip oil

I use rosehip oil after I tone to hydrate. Waldorf told me that's not how it works.

"When people put oil on in the middle — oil is an occlusive, so you're sealing — so if you're going to use oil, put it on at the end or use it as make up remover."

So, out goes my oil.

I should add a retinoid to prevent acne

In order to prevent acne, aging, and help exfoliate the skin, Waldorf recommends applying retinoid nightly.

Retinoids are a generic term describing products that help with Vitamin A production — the most common forms being retinol and adapalene. Waldorf recommended I use the adapalene retinoid because it specifically targets acne.

"Retinoids revolutionized both acne care and anti-aging care," Waldorf said. "Because retinoids sweep the skin. They take all those sticky cells on top and in the pores and they help loosen them up. So, that's the exfoliation and as part of that, they're helping with blackheads and whiteheads."

Any more acne warrants peel pads

If I start noticing more acne, Waldorf recommends adding in peel pads, a Chrissy Teigen favorite.

"What I like about it is it's very hard to go overboard with it," Waldorf said. "It's giving you the alpha hydroxy acids, which help to turn cells over, they also help with collagen, so they also help with some of the stuff retinoids are doing."

The pads are meant to exfoliate my skin and get rid of acne and blemishes. This could be my nighttime exfoliator before bed. Waldorf recommended a supply of Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare alpha beta peel pads.

Waldorf is a big fan of my moisturizer

I follow up any cleansing or exfoliating I do with my Neutrogena Hydro Boost Hyaluronic Acid Gel Face Moisturizer. Waldorf said many of her clients liked the product.

It contains hyaluronic acid, a humectant. Humectants help hold water in and let your face maintain moisture, which is especially important for an oily person like myself, as dryness can lead to even more oil production.

"People with oily skin tend to like it," Waldorf said. "It is a gel and serum so it does have some sealing power too."

She told me to ditch my sunscreen and buy a mineral-based one

My last step in my morning routine is to protect my skin with Glossier's Invisible Shield sunscreen. It's a chemical sunscreen that works by absorbing UV light.

While chemical sunscreens are widely used, and effective, Waldorf suggested I try a mineral sunscreen, like Isdin's Eryfotona Actinica or Sheer Zinc Face Dry-Touch Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF 50.

These work by reflecting UV rays with zinc and titanium and can be better for people with sensitive skin.

The verdict

Overall, Waldorf said she liked that I kept my routine simple and only had a few recommendations to take it to the next level. There is no magic solution to acne (including for people starting HRT). But hopefully, some of her suggestions will help minimize it.