A chemical peel can help reduce your wrinkles, acne scars, and more - here's what to know before getting one
- A chemical peel is a cosmetic treatment that uses a solution to dissolve the first layer of skin.
- This stimulates your skin to regrow and helps reduce wrinkles, acne scars, and dark spots.
- After a chemical peel, avoid the sun, don't wear makeup, and do not peel the skin.
Chemical peeling is the third most common non-invasive cosmetic treatment in the US - next to botox and fillers.
During a chemical peel, a dermatologist will apply a chemical solution - consisting of chemicals such as alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, retinoid/retinol, or trichloroacetic acid - to the skin, usually on the face.
The chemical solution is designed to remove dead skin cells on the surface to encourage new, smoother skin to grow in its place. As a result, chemical peels can help even out skin tone from acne scarring, reduce wrinkles, and improve discoloration.
Here's what to expect during and after a chemical peel.
What is a chemical peel?
There are three types of chemical peels, which vary depending on several factors including:
- The acids used
- Their strength
- The duration on the skin
- Treatment goal
Here's a breakdown of each type of chemical peel and how often you can get it:
| How long it takes to heal: | When you can get your next treatment: | |
| Light peel, which exfoliates dead skin cells from the epidermis | < One week | After two to five weeks |
| Medium peel, which targets the skin cells from the epidermis and the dermis | One to two weeks | After a month |
| penetrates | Two to three weeks | once |
"In general, with chemical peels, while you will see results after just one treatment, the more you do, the more of a result you will see. That is especially true for superficial [light] peels when often three to five sessions may be recommended for best results," says Garshick.
What to expect during a chemical peel
Chemical peels typically last between 20 and 90 minutes. When you first walk-in to your dermatologist, you'll be given instructions to remove any makeup or dirt from your face.
After that, the dermatologist will either apply isopropyl alcohol or acetone to your skin. This strips any natural grease or oil from the face, which helps ensure that the peel, once applied, will go on evenly and penetrate properly.
Before applying the peel, the dermatologist will rub Vaseline or petroleum ointment to the corners of your eyes, mouth, and nose to minimize any buildup of the peel in those sensitive areas.
After that, your dermatologist will apply the peel during which time you may feel a stinging or burning sensation for about 20 minutes.
Depending on what type of peel you get, you'll either:
- Need a cool compress afterward if you got a medium peel
- Require surgical dressing after receiving a deep peel
Dos and don'ts after a chemical peel
Immediately after your chemical peel is complete, your dermatologist will most likely apply a gentle moisturizer or recovery cream, and finish it off with sunscreen. You can expect the skin to be red and sensitive for days to months after, depending on what type of peel you received.
Important: It's important to discuss your skin type and medical history with your provider beforehand to avoid any complications.
Once you've left the doctor's office, here are some dos and don'ts to keep in mind:
- Avoid any water on your face for 12-24 hours after a chemical peel. This includes any kind of shower or washing of your face.
- Don't peel off the skin. "As tempting as it may be, it is best to avoid peeling off any skin and it is best to allow the skin to peel off on its own. If you peel the skin yourself, you risk causing injury or scarring," says Garshick. Rubbing or scratching the skin isn't good either because it can cause an infection.
- Avoid the sun and tanning beds. Chemical peels make the skin vulnerable to UV damage from the sun and tanning beds.So it's important to wear sunglasses and a hat when going outside and avoid tanning beds entirely. The American Academy of Dermatology Association recommends wearing sunscreen daily to minimize discoloration and protect the new, fresh layer of skin.
- Don't wear makeup. Before your skin heals, it's best to avoid using makeup because it can increase the risk of infection.
- Use gentle cleansers and moisturizers. Avoid harsh scrubs and exfoliants for at least one week after the chemical peel, unless advised otherwise. You can use a recovery cream - such as CeraVe Healing Ointment or Avene Cicalfate Recovery Cream - to help the skin heal while moisturizing the skin.
Chemical peels rarely scar, so make sure to stick to a strict aftercare routine to avoid it and get the best results from your chemical peel.
Note: "While they can be performed on all skin types, it is important to use caution when performing chemical peels in darker skin types to reduce any risk of scarring or discoloration," says Rhea Souhleris Grous, founder and director of aesthetics at La Suite Skincare.
Who shouldn't get a chemical peel:
People of all skin types - including those with sensitive skin - can benefit from certain chemical peels, says Garshick. However, it's best to avoid them if you:
- Used isotretinoin, an oral acne medication, in the past six to 12 months, which increases the risk of scarring.
- Are about to go on a sunny vacation or planning to be in direct sunlight for prolonged periods.
- Have open wounds in the face or you recently had facial surgery.
- Previously had an allergic reaction to peeling agents in the past.
- Often have cold sore outbreaks.
- Have undergone radiation therapy, which increases the risk of scarring.
- If you're pregnant, ask your doctor if you qualify.
Insider's takeaway
People of all skin types may benefit from chemical peels, which can help improve skin texture, address discoloration, and reduce fine lines.
The recovery time, depending on the type of peel you get, can take up to three weeks and requires significant aftercare like avoiding the sun, not wearing makeup, and using special moisturizers.