The 177-year history behind Cartier, the iconic jewelry brand that's a favorite of the royals and worth $12 billion
Gabbi Shaw
- Cartier is one of the most famous jewelry houses in the world.
- A Cartier watch can cost up to $300,000.
Since Cartier was founded in Paris in 1847, it has become one of the best-known and well-regarded jewelry and watch brands in the world.
According to Forbes, the brand was valued at $12.2 billion in 2020, up from $7.8 billion in 2017, under the stewardship of CEO Cyrille Vigneron.
A Cartier timepiece, bracelet, necklace, or ring is an automatic sign of quiet luxury, as most items are priced in the thousands … or even hundreds of thousands.
Cartier is also a favorite of royals, celebrities, and business power players alike.
Here's how the brand became the powerhouse it is today.
Cartier is one of the world's best-known jewelry brands, accessorizing celebrities and the uber-wealthy for events like the Oscars and Met Gala.
For example, Lily Collins wore a Cartier necklace made of platinum, emeralds, diamonds, and rock crystal, according to Forbes, to the Met Gala in 2019.
During an appearance on "The Late Late Show," she told host James Corden that the necklace came with "its own security guard" and a woman who had a special key to unlock the necklace herself.
The company was founded in Paris in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier.
According to Cartier's timeline, Louis-François took over his old master Adolphe Picard's shop in 1847 when he was 28 years old, renaming it after himself.
In the 1850s, Louis-François opened two more locations in more upscale neighborhoods, attracting the attention of Princess Mathilde and Empress Eugénie of France.
Princess Mathilde, the cousin of Emperor Napoleon III and Empress Eugénie, bought her first Cartier creation in 1856. This immediately elevated the brand.
This led other royals, such as the empress, to flock to Cartier for their jewelry needs.
One of Louis-François' sons, Alfred, entered the business in 1874. Together, they helped spread the brand even more.
Alfred moved the business to the Rue de la Paix, an exclusive address in Paris' jewelry district, the Gentleman's Journal reported.
But it was Alfred's sons, Louis-François' grandsons, Louis, Pierre (seen here), and Jacques, who took Cartier to the next level.
The first of Alfred's sons, Louis, joined the business in 1898. As Cartier's website says, he played "a pivotal role in the evolution of the Cartier brand."
His brothers soon followed.
Each brother had their own location to manage. Louis stayed in Paris, Pierre moved to New York, and Jacques went to London.
Upon the geographic split, the three Cartier branches essentially became their own separate companies, each with its own leader, designs, and clientele.
Even today, these are three of the biggest markets for Cartier.
Louis designed the "mystery clock," which is still one of Cartier's best-known designs. He also designed the Santos watch, Cartier's first men's wristwatch.
The mystery clock is a mechanism that makes it appear like the hands on the watch are floating above its face — of course, they're not.
As The New York Times explained, the hands are actually fixed to crystal discs that are see-through and, therefore, look invisible.
The first Mystery Clock was launched in 1912.
The Santos was designed in 1904 by Louis for his friend Alberto Santos-Dumont, a Brazilian pilot. It was the first time Louis created something designed for a specific person in his life.
The Santos, which is still sold today and ranges from $3,900 to $68,000, was designed specifically to help pilots tell time while flying.
Louis was also behind another of Cartier's iconic designs: the Tank watch. It was introduced in 1917 and has been worn by some of the most famous people in history.
The Tank watch was created in 1917, although it didn't go on sale to the public until 1919.
Andy Warhol, Princess Diana, Cary Grant, Rami Malek, Jackie Kennedy … the list goes on of famous people who have loved this rectangular-shaped watch.
It started in 1917 when, according to Haute Time, Louis was inspired by the tanks he saw on the front lines of World War I.
You can have your own Tank watch for $3,300 — though they go as high as $100,000.
Another of Cartier's iconic designs under Louis' tenure is the Bismarck Sapphire Necklace, which was made in 1935.
The Bismarck Sapphire Necklace is currently on display at the Smithsonian Institute. It's a 98-carat sapphire set with 312 diamonds and eight square sapphires.
Louis died in 1942.
Meanwhile, in New York, Pierre came into possession of the Hope Diamond. He sold it to a prominent DC family after a long negotiation in 1911 for $300,000 (over $9 million today).
According to the Smithsonian, the Hope Diamond, a 45-carat blue diamond, has been changing hands since the 1660s, from French royalty to a gem collector named Henry Philip Hope, from whom it got its name.
It came into Pierre's possession in 1909 after he bought it from a man named C.H. Rosenau.
Pierre successfully sold the diamond to Ned and Evalyn McLean in 1911, but the sale almost didn't go through since the Hope Diamond was thought to be cursed due to its long and bloody history, The New York Times reported.
They wanted to sell it back to Pierre and Cartier, but he refused.
The matter was settled, and Evalyn held on to the diamond until her death in 1947. Jeweler Harry Winston bought it two years later — after her relatives declined to keep it due to the curse — and he eventually donated it to the Smithsonian in 1958.
Soon after, Pierre acquired 653 Fifth Avenue in 1917. To this day, the building is known as the Cartier Building and houses the brand's flagship.
The Cartier Building is an iconic part of Manhattan's Fifth Avenue.
It was designated as a city landmark in 1970 and added to the National Register of Historic Places 13 years later, in 1983.
Meanwhile, in London, Jacques moved Cartier's UK flagship to Bond Street, where it also remains to this day.
He ran the store until his death in 1941.
Under Jacques' control in the UK, Cartier developed a close relationship with the Windsors, which still exists today.
The first Cartier store in London opened in 1902, the same year as King Edward VII's coronation.
According to British Vogue, Edward had actually asked Cartier to open a branch ahead of his coronation so attendees didn't have to travel to Paris to secure their jewels.
Two years later, it received its first royal certificate from the king.
After that, Cartier became "the official purveyor of numerous royal courts" including the UK, Spain, and Russia, according to the brand.
Queen Elizabeth II wore the diamond Hyderabad necklace in her first official portrait.
As reported by Harper's Bazaar, this necklace is worth about $83 million and is the royal family's most expensive piece.
It consists of 50 diamonds set in platinum, and was given to Queen Elizabeth by one of the then-richest men in the world, Asaf Jah VII Nizam of Hyderabad, to celebrate her engagement to Prince Philip.
Kate Middleton has worn the necklace, as well.
Princess Diana was a fan of the Tank watch.
Town & Country called the Tank watch her "signature" piece. It even made an appearance in season six of "The Crown."
It became a favorite after her divorce in 1996, when she ditched the Patek Philippe watch Princes Charles had given her.
Her favored golden Tank Française watch has remained in the family. William and Harry were each allowed to keep one of their mother's jewelry pieces after her death, Town & Country reported. The story goes that William picked the watch, while Harry chose his mother's sapphire engagement ring, but the two swapped when William planned to propose.
However, in his memoir, "Spare," Harry debunked the story, calling it "absolute rubbish," and said that his brother had asked for the ring years prior, and Harry had been "more than happy to let it go."
Still, his wife, Meghan Markle, has been spotted wearing a Tank Français that looks just like Diana's.
Kate Middleton borrowed the Queen's Halo tiara on her wedding day, which Jacques had designed 75 years prior.
According to British Vogue, the Halo tiara was designed by Jacques and was purchased by Prince Albert — who would later become King George VI upon his brother's abdication — as a present for his wife in November 1936.
Queen Elizabeth II got the Halo tiara on her 18th birthday and lent it to Princess Margaret (her sister), Princess Anne (her daughter), and Kate Middleton on her wedding day (her granddaughter-in-law).
Pierre died in 1964. The three Cartier children in charge — his daughter Marion and his nephews Jean-Jacques and Claude — sold each branch of the business to a parent company.
This reunification of the brand was led by Robert Hocq who, before his death in 1979, first took control of Cartier Paris, and later acquired Cartier London and Cartier New York, The New York Times reported.
Upon his death, his daughter Nathalie Hocq (pictured) became the president. She remained with the company until 1983, according to LinkedIn.
Even after the brand was taken out of family control, it was still trendsetting. The Love bracelet, designed by Aldo Cipullo, debuted in 1969.
The Love bracelet, as British Vogue puts it, "heralded a new age of modernity in the way we wear jewelry."
Why? Because you need a special screwdriver to secure it on your wrist. It's a simple gold bangle with a screw design repeated over and over.
According to the publication, it's still one of the most Googled pieces of jewelry in the world, despite starting at $4,750.
Cartier remains iconic to this day — a true luxury symbol. The brand rakes in $6 billion annually and is valued at $12 billion.
Under the stewardship of CEO and president Cyrille Vigneron, the company has been more successful than ever. As Business Insider previously reported, Cartier is now the second-largest watchmaker in the world, behind only Rolex.
In 2020, Cartier was ranked 56th on a list of the world's most valuable brands by Forbes with its $12.2 billion valuation.
Vigneron personally signs off on every design, he told watch website Hodinkee. Despite all that money behind the brand, Vigneron still makes it feel like a small, family-run business.
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