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I got takeout from Rao's, one of New York City's most exclusive and iconic restaurants, during a pandemic. Here's what it was like.
I got takeout from Rao's, one of New York City's most exclusive and iconic restaurants, during a pandemic. Here's what it was like.
Emily CohnMay 5, 2020, 04:30 IST
My husband and I outside of Rao's restaurant, awaiting our takeout.Emily Cohn/Business Insider
Rao's is one of New York's most iconic restaurants.
In non-pandemic times, it's nearly impossible to eat there, as all 10 of its tables are held by regulars with standing reservations.
With restaurants forced to shut down everything but pick-up and delivery due to the coronavirus, Rao's is offering takeout for the first time in its 124 years of existence.
I ordered takeout during the pandemic to see what it was like and I was not disappointed.
Rao's is so exclusive, even the famed billionaire investor Warren Buffett has reportedly been turned down for a reservation.
"You would have better luck getting invited to dinner at the White House," New York magazine wrote, reporting that Martin Scorsese and Bill Clinton have held tables.
When New York forced restaurants to shut down dine-in service on March 17 to prevent the spread of the coronavirus, Rao's decided to offer takeout for the first time.
Though it took more than a week for me to secure a takeout meal from Rao's, it was a memorable and worthwhile experience that brought some joy during an otherwise grim and scary time.
Gatto told me he didn't know when Rao's would reopen. He said the restaurant is so small that lowering density would be "impossible for us to do."
Rao's lemon chicken.
Emily Cohn/Business Insider
The restaurant told me it's gone from making 300 meatballs per week in normal times to around 1,500 per week these days.
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In addition to serving its regulars and local foodies like me, Rao's is also donating meals to hospitals and other first responders in the city.
We ended up finishing mostly everything, except for a few pieces of chicken that made for great leftovers the following day.
What was left when we were done.
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I was pleasantly surprised by the lemon chicken.
My full plate of penne, a meatball, and lemon chicken.
Emily Cohn/Business Insider
Next up, I tried the penne and meatball.
Rao's famous sauce, atop penne and a giant meatball.
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I started with the salad first, which didn't look like much, but actually contained incredibly fresh, top-notch ingredients, including radicchio and fennel.
The spread: House salad, penne with red sauce, meatballs, and lemon chicken.
Emily Cohn/Business Insider
Here's what the spread looked like, right out of the bag.
Back at home, we set up for what was certain to be a very special meal.
Setting the table.
Emily Cohn/Business Insider
And with our prize in hand, we were headed back to Queens.
Takeout secured.
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When we arrived we told a staffer our name and then waited about 20 minutes for our food to be ready.
My husband and I outside of Rao's restaurant, awaiting our takeout.
Emily Cohn/Business Insider
Only staff were permitted inside, so we waited on the sidewalk.
A sign in the window read "this establishment has been disinfected."
Emily Cohn/Business Insider
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According to Gatto, the restaurant is now serving 80 to 90 takeout meals per night.
A photo from 1998 shows Rao's former owner Frank Pellegrino in the restaurant's kitchen.
Photo by Corey Sipkin/NY Daily News via Getty Images
We pulled up to Rao's on time at 6:30 p.m. and saw about 10 guests standing outside, all standing more than six feet apart.
A small gathering of guests awaiting their takeout at 6:30 p.m.
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The drive uptown was incredibly eerie. This was our first trip into Manhattan since we left our offices for the last time on March 11.
Park Avenue at rush hour on a Thursday, April 30.
Emily Cohn/Business Insider
At around 6 p.m., my husband and I got in the car and began our short drive from where we live in Queens to East Harlem.
Driving over the Queensboro Bridge on our way to Manhattan.
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The following day, my time had come! I got a text saying I had secured a spot for that evening. I texted back that we'd pick up our dinner at 6:30 p.m.
Emily Cohn/Business Insider
I first messaged Marc on April 21 to inquire about getting an order placed. I heard back on April 29 and was informed that I had been added to a waitlist.
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Rao's waiter Marc Mel first spread the word on Instagram that the restaurant was open for takeout.
On March 16, the day before restaurants were forced to shut down in New York, the Rao's team had a meeting to decide what to do.
Rao's takeout.
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I was fortunate enough to eat at Rao's last October. A friend's family invited me to join them at their table.
My friend Jenni, left, and me, outside of Rao's in October 2019.
Emily Cohn/Business Insider
How do you get a table at Rao's? "You don't," executive chef Dino Gatto told me recently.
Frank Pellegrino, former owner of Rao's Restaurant and Dino Gatto, executive chef.
Photo by Bobby Bank/WireImage
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Stepping into Rao's is like stepping back in time. Here's a shot of the interior from 1998. It looks almost identical today.
In this photo from 1998, Opera singer Michael Amante sings inside Rao's restaurant.
Corey Sipkin/NY Daily News Archive via Getty Images
The restaurant is located on 114th Street and Pleasant Avenue in Manhattan's East Harlem neighborhood.
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Rao's is one of New York's most exclusive restaurants.
The outside of Rao's restaurant.
Emily Cohn/Business Insider