We visited a cult-favorite Texas taco chain that's trying to take over America. Here's why Chipotle should be terrified.
We arrived at Torchy's near Southern Methodist University — a prime location for a chain built for hungry students seeking some reasonably priced tacos.
We were initially paralyzed with indecision while trying to take in the long list of tacos. Torchy's serves 20 traditional tacos, plus breakfast tacos, sides, and a handful of other entrées. And, there's a full bar! Clink, clink.
Before noon, the restaurant was already packed. Hungover college students were inhaling tacos alongside families and World Cup fans sipping beers.
The decor is devilishly cheeky. Torchy's branding has a sassy Satanic — but playful! — vibe that is definitely an upgrade from any fast-food chain.
After placing our order at the counter, our food arrived at the table surprisingly swiftly. With tacos costing around $4 and a margarita costing $6, this entire spread cost us roughly $40 before tax and tip.
We had heard whispers about Torchy's sumptuous queso. And, when we were presented with the green chile queso topped with cilantro, diablo sauce, and cotija cheese, we discovered ourselves face-to-face with one of the best quesos we had ever experienced.
Chipotle, take note: this is how you make a queso. The consistency is velvety and smooth. There's a rich savory heat, from the diablo sauce, that urges the diner to gorge themselves without fear of burning out ones' taste buds. In fact, we found we could not stop gorging ourselves — even as we were increasingly stuffed, we kept returning for one more dip.
We hadn't been sure what to expect with the street corn, which was served in a bowl with ancho aioli, cotija cheese, cilantro, and red chili powder. What we found was a masterfully balanced dish. The sweet corn perfectly countered the smoky spice of the aioli and chili powder, and it harmonized into a creation that was more than the sum of its parts.
On to the main event: the tacos. Torchy's serves breakfast tacos all day, so we figured we needed to try The Wrangler, a brisket taco with eggs, potatoes, and cheese. It's a delightful breakfast taco that does pretty much what it says on the menu — combines tasty breakfast food and stuffs it in a tortilla.
This hulking beast — the Trailer Park — featured a moist yet massive hunk of expertly fried chicken. The chicken could have stood alone at most restaurants, but here it was accompanied by cheese, chilis, lettuce, and pico de gallo in a tortilla that couldn't even try to envelop the meat.
The Baja Shrimp Taco demonstrates one of Torchy's strengths — combining a diverse and sometimes unexpected mix of ingredients to craft a perfect taco without falling into stunt food traps. This taco combines fried shrimp, cabbage slaw, and pickled onions and jalapeños. Simply put, it was great.
As someone who knows a thing or two about catfishing, we can say this taco is more than what meets the eye. Catfish on a taco is an unexpected choice, but it's a great Southern, Tex-Mex twist that completely works. The fish was well-cooked, crisply fried and flaky on the inside. All the ingredients were incredibly fresh, something that a lesser chain may have ignored, thanks to the glory of the avocado sauce.
The Republican's name intrigued us, but this is a taco that can win bipartisan support. Again, Torchy's shows its range with a grilled jalapeño sausage, pico de gallo, and grated cheese. It's hearty and spicy — a heavier taco that is incredibly filling and incredibly satisfying.
Chipotle should also be taking notes on Torchy's $6 margarita. This is no premixed, plastic cup gutter swill — it's an honest-to-goodness quality marg, available frozen or on the rocks and in multiple flavors. It was well-mixed and strong, neither too tequila-forward nor too sweet.
We couldn't stop marveling at the wonders of Torchy's as we plowed ahead through our tasting. There was simply so much food — and it was all delicious. We weren't disappointed by a single thing, except for the fact that there is not one in New York City.
Thankfully, Torchy's is reportedly expanding. The chain already has locations in Oklahoma and Colorado. And, Torchy's website promises: "Our fire is expanding!" Watch out, Chipotle.
Source: Torchy's
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