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How tattoo styles and trends have changed over the years

James Pasley   

How tattoo styles and trends have changed over the years
A woman watches a client get inked at a tattoo shop in 1984 in Rhode Island.Mary Murphy/AP
  • From social security numbers to butterflies, tattoo designs have changed dramatically over the last 150 years.
  • From 1960 to 1995, the number of tattoo artists working in the US skyrocketed from 500 to 10,000.

Over the years, tattoos have gone from the outskirts of society into the mainstream.

Tattoo designs have gone through all sorts of trends — from simplistic black-and-white drawings to body art and sleeves to micro tattoos.

According to a 2019 Ipsos poll, 30% of Americans now have a tattoo.

From traditional sailor tattoos to tribal tattoos of the 1990s, here's how tattoos have changed and developed over the last century.

New York City is considered the place where the trend of modern tattoos began. In the mid-19th century, a man named Martin Hildebrandt started tattooing soldiers to ensure they could be identified if they died in battle.

New York City is considered the place where the trend of modern tattoos began. In the mid-19th century, a man named Martin Hildebrandt started tattooing soldiers to ensure they could be identified if they died in battle.
A soldier is tattooed while another looks on aboard a ship in 1890.      The Print Collector/Heritage Images via Getty Images

Sources: Time, Grey Journal

In the late 19th century and early 20th century, tattoos became a regular sight at circuses and freak shows, with many performers often completely covered in body art.

In the late 19th century and early 20th century, tattoos became a regular sight at circuses and freak shows, with many performers often completely covered in body art.
A portrait of American circus performer Maud Stevens Wagner, one of the first American female tattoo artists, in 1907.      Universal History Archive/Universal Images Group via Getty Images

Source: Grey Journal

In the early 20th century, black tattoos were the dominant trend. The tattoos were often of graphic images with bold lining.

In the early 20th century, black tattoos were the dominant trend. The tattoos were often of graphic images with bold lining.
Two women displaying their back tattoos in 1925.      Bettman/Getty

Source: Inked Mag

In the 1930s, when the US first introduced social security numbers, some people decided it was easier to tattoo the number on themselves rather than trying to remember it.

In the 1930s, when the US first introduced social security numbers, some people decided it was easier to tattoo the number on themselves rather than trying to remember it.
An unemployed lumber worker with his social security number tattooed on his arm.      Buyenlarge/Getty Images

While the butterfly tattoo would become iconic in the 1990s, they were already being done in England in the 1930s.

While the butterfly tattoo would become iconic in the 1990s, they were already being done in England in the 1930s.
British tattooist George Burchett applies a beauty spot to the back of an unspecified woman, just below a tattoo of a butterfly, at his tattoo parlor in London, England, circa 1935.      Peter R. Keen/European/FPG/Archive Photos/Getty Images

During this period, women regularly dabbled with tattoos, though people often didn't realize it given its subtlety. The tattoos were cosmetic, often used as a way to replicate makeup.

These tattoos included beauty spots, tinted cheeks, and permanent eyebrows.

Source: Grey Journal

Sailors are the most well-known early tattoo converts. Their tattoos were often a way to tell their story or to show where they had travelled.

Sailors are the most well-known early tattoo converts. Their tattoos were often a way to tell their story or to show where they had travelled.
A sailor aboard the USS New Jersey inspects another sailor's tattoos in December 1944.      CORBIS/Corbis via Getty Images

Source: Refinery29

Certain symbols meant certain things. For instance, a turtle meant the sailor had passed across the equator, or a swallow meant they had sailed more than 5,000 miles.

Certain symbols meant certain things. For instance, a turtle meant the sailor had passed across the equator, or a swallow meant they had sailed more than 5,000 miles.
Four men who work as cooks aboard the HMS Belfast show off their tattoos.      Central Press/Getty Images

Source: Refinery29

After World War II, American and British tattooists developed their craft and drew from what they had seen inspired by their experience traveling to Asia and seeing how tattoos were done there.

After World War II, American and British tattooists developed their craft and drew from what they had seen inspired by their experience traveling to Asia and seeing how tattoos were done there.
British tattooist George Burchett applies a Chinese dragon tattoo to the arm of Private Keaney, at Burchett's tattoo parlor in London, England, circa 1940.      George Konig/Keystone Features/FPG/Archive Photos/Getty Images

Sailor Jerry, formerly Norman Collins, was one of the most prominent tattooists of this era. His go-to designs included the anchor, ships, women, and symbols of American patriotism, like the American Flag or bald eagles.

His tattoo designs are still popular today.

Sources: Inked Mag, Refinery29

Thanks in part to Sailor Jerry's popularity, tattoos began to get more colourful in the 1950s.

Thanks in part to Sailor Jerry
A woman is tattooed in 1950.      Keystone-France/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images

Source: Inked Mag

During the 1950s, tattoos were linked to masculinity. The Marlboro man had tattoos and WWII veterans did too. Since veterans were celebrated for their sacrifices, their tattoos became somewhat normalized as well.

During the 1950s, tattoos were linked to masculinity. The Marlboro man had tattoos and WWII veterans did too. Since veterans were celebrated for their sacrifices, their tattoos became somewhat normalized as well.
Merchant Navy veteran Jack Stapleton, a fireman during the Second World War points to one of many tattoos      Pawel Dwulit/Toronto Star via Getty Images

But at this point, tattoos were still perceived as outside the mainstream.

But at this point, tattoos were still perceived as outside the mainstream.
A tattoo artist etches a design featuring a heart, flowers, and the name "Jenny" on a client's arm.      Mary Murphy/AP

In the 1960s, tattoos started to become more acceptable. Singer Janis Joplin helped popularize tattoos when she got a tattoo of a Florentine bracelet on her wrist, which ended up on the front cover of Rolling Stone magazine.

In the 1960s, tattoos started to become more acceptable. Singer Janis Joplin helped popularize tattoos when she got a tattoo of a Florentine bracelet on her wrist, which ended up on the front cover of Rolling Stone magazine.
Rock singer Janis Joplin.      Frank Russo/NY Daily News Archive via Getty Images

Not everyone condoned them, but for those who were joining the counterculture movement, they were a way to show their rebellion and individuality. And it helped that tattoos were permanent.

Not everyone condoned them, but for those who were joining the counterculture movement, they were a way to show their rebellion and individuality. And it helped that tattoos were permanent.
A woman smiles from a table as her husband shows how he applies tattoo.      Ron Bull/Toronto Star via Getty Images

In the 1970s, more mystical tattoos began to appear — images of castles and fairies, alongside classic biker tattoos like skeletons and flames.

In the 1970s, more mystical tattoos began to appear — images of castles and fairies, alongside classic biker tattoos like skeletons and flames.
A tattoo of a unicorn in 1984.      Mary Murphy/ AP

In the 1980s, the punk scene embraced tattoos. Many punks got body art tattoos to complement their spiked hair and piercings.

In the 1980s, the punk scene embraced tattoos. Many punks got body art tattoos to complement their spiked hair and piercings.
Two tattooed punks in Amsterdam in 1990.      Peter Dejong/AP

Source: Inked Mag

It was also a period where tattoos became more sophisticated due to technological improvements. Needles were made thinner, and better ink was available. People's bodies started to be treated more like canvases.

It was also a period where tattoos became more sophisticated due to technological improvements. Needles were made thinner, and better ink was available. People
Tattoo artist Lannie Glover at work.      Andrew Stawicki/Toronto Star via Getty Images

This was also when tattoo sleeves and bodysuits started to get popular.

This was also when tattoo sleeves and bodysuits started to get popular.
Contestants compare body art at a tattoo show in Australia.      Torsten Blackwood/AFP/Getty Images

The 1990s were a major period for tattoos globally. In 1995, there were 10,000 tattoo artists working in the US. Thirty-five years earlier, there were only about 500.

The 1990s were a major period for tattoos globally. In 1995, there were 10,000 tattoo artists working in the US. Thirty-five years earlier, there were only about 500.
A woman named Rose Pulda showed off her tattoos in 1995.      Barry Chin/The Boston Globe via Getty Images

Source: Refinery29

For the first time, women were getting tattoos as much as men. This led to a surge in more feminine tattoos, such as the iconic butterfly tattoo.

For the first time, women were getting tattoos as much as men. This led to a surge in more feminine tattoos, such as the iconic butterfly tattoo.
A butterfly tattoo on a client's shoulder.      KY Cheng/South China Morning Post via Getty Images

Celebrities had a big impact on the tattoo industry. Tattoos like barbed-wire armbands were popular thanks to Pamela Anderson.

Celebrities had a big impact on the tattoo industry. Tattoos like barbed-wire armbands were popular thanks to Pamela Anderson.
Pamela Anderson with her barbed-wire armband tattoo.      Chris Bergman/Fotos International/Getty Images

Rappers like Tupac, Eminem, and 50 Cent all had tattoos and further introduced the trend into a celebrity space.

Rappers like Tupac, Eminem, and 50 Cent all had tattoos and further introduced the trend into a celebrity space.
Tupac Shakur performs in 1994.      Raymond Boyd/Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images

Source: BBC

But it was also during this decade that cultural appropriation had its day as the popularity of tribal tattoos and Chinese letters increased.

But it was also during this decade that cultural appropriation had its day as the popularity of tribal tattoos and Chinese letters increased.
A tattoo design on a person's upper bicep with Chinese characters.      Fryderyk Gabowicz/picture alliance via Getty Images

In the early 2000s, a trend known as New School was popular. These cartoonish tattoos were a mixture of neon-colours meeting more traditional forms.

In the early 2000s, a trend known as New School was popular. These cartoonish tattoos were a mixture of neon-colours meeting more traditional forms.
A man shows off the tattoos on his back at the annual New York Tattoo Convention on May 17, 2003 in New York City.      Spencer Platt/Getty Images

Source: Refinery29

It wasn't just the type of tattoo in the early 2000s that mattered, but also where they were located. This was the era when lower back tattoos became more prevalent.

It wasn
A lower back tattoo from 1998.      Fryderyk Gabowicz/picture alliance via Getty Images

Source: Allure

Along with the iconic butterfly, yin-and-yang became a popular tattoo design.

Along with the iconic butterfly, yin-and-yang became a popular tattoo design.
A man has the Chinese yin-and-yang symbol tattooed on his foot.      Peter Endig/picture alliance via Getty Images

It was a period where some tattoos would probably be regretted later — especially given their permanent nature.

It was a period where some tattoos would probably be regretted later — especially given their permanent nature.
Eric Hartsburg, an Indiana-based wrestler and one-time fan of GOP presidential candidate Mitt Romney, who tattooed the Romney campaign logo on his face, is seen at the office of a doctor who specializes in removing tattoos, in Beverly Hills, Calif., Tuesday, Dec. 11, 2012.      Nick Ut/AP

Luckily in 2012, the FDA approved the Picosure laser, which made tattoo removal the easiest it had ever been.

Luckily in 2012, the FDA approved the Picosure laser, which made tattoo removal the easiest it had ever been.
A man undergoes treatment for removal of his tattoo with laser method in Jakarta, Indonesia on April 23, 2022.      Dwi Ari Prastyanto/Anadolu Agency via Getty Images

Source: Allure

Throughout the 2010s, celebrity culture — with the help of social media — made tattoos even more popular. Popular figures like Lady Gaga and Rihanna broadened the appeal to their millions of fans.

Throughout the 2010s, celebrity culture — with the help of social media — made tattoos even more popular. Popular figures like Lady Gaga and Rihanna broadened the appeal to their millions of fans.
Rihanna poses with her tattoos in 2009.      Ray Tamarra/Getty Images

Sources: Allure, Vice

By 2012, 21% of Americans had a tattoo.

By 2012, 21% of Americans had a tattoo.
Darryl Veer, owner of tattoo shop "Tradtoo," looks at pictures of previous tattoos made in Lelystad, Netherlands, on January 10, 2023.      Simon Wohlfahrt/AFP

Source: Ipsos

Alongside celebrities, tattoo artists gained their own fair share of stardom, like celebrity tattoo artist Dr. Woo.

Alongside celebrities, tattoo artists gained their own fair share of stardom, like celebrity tattoo artist Dr. Woo.
Tattoo artist Dr Woo in 2017.      JB Lacroix/WireImage via Getty Images

Source: Vice

Micro tattoos were one of the defining trends, according to Ink Mag.

Micro tattoos were one of the defining trends, according to Ink Mag.
A woman with a tiny hanger tattoo on her neck on Feb 25, 2016.      Giorgos Georgiou/NurPhoto/NurPhoto via Getty Images

Source: Inked Mag

Finger placement tattoos became popular, with quirky small designs like moustaches, hearts, or smiley faces.

Finger placement tattoos became popular, with quirky small designs like moustaches, hearts, or smiley faces.
A love heart finger tattoo.      Gisela Schober/Getty Images for Roomers Munich

Another trend was geometrical shapes. This tattoo is designed to represent a soldier's three tours of the Middle East.

Another trend was geometrical shapes. This tattoo is designed to represent a soldier
Soldier Farley Fergerson points to a tattoo symbolizing his three deployments in the Middle East.      Helen H. Richardson/The Denver Post via Getty Images

Source: Allure

Stick-and-poke tattoos — a form of non-electric tattooing — were also on trend. By 2019, about 30% of Americans had tattoos.

Stick-and-poke tattoos — a form of non-electric tattooing — were also on trend. By 2019, about 30% of Americans had tattoos.
A tattoo artist works on a man’s back with the stick-and-poke method in 2016.      Matthias Balk/picture alliance via Getty Images

Sources: Refinery29, Ipsos

As for the current moment, tattooists told Insider in January that micro tattoos, full color pieces, and bold subtle line tattoos were popular.

As for the current moment, tattooists told Insider in January that micro tattoos, full color pieces, and bold subtle line tattoos were popular.
A stock image of a heavily tattooed male.      Mike Harrington/Getty Images

Meanwhile, tribal designs, white-ink tattoos, and pre-drawn tattoos were becoming less common.

Source: Insider

With technology making everything from getting the tattoo to removing it easier and less painful, little stands in the way of the permanent body art continuing to grow in popularity in the future.

With technology making everything from getting the tattoo to removing it easier and less painful, little stands in the way of the permanent body art continuing to grow in popularity in the future.
A participant gets a tattoo by a tattoo artist at the Land of ink Bangkok Tattoo Convention 2022 in Bangkok, Thailand, 03 December 2022.      Anusak Laowilas/NurPhoto via Getty Images

Source: WKYC

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