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Hotel review: Walking into the Chicago Athletic Association Hotel is like entering a scene straight out of Harry Potter, minus the children and wand-waving
Hotel review: Walking into the Chicago Athletic Association Hotel is like entering a scene straight out of Harry Potter, minus the children and wand-waving
For a luxury hotel on Chicago's Michigan Avenue that feels anything but generic, the Chicago Athletic Association Hotel plays on its rich history, gothic architecture, and curated design to offer unique personality without feeling kitschy.
With multiple excellent on-site bars and restaurants (including what I consider Chicago's best rooftop bar), the hotel is a worthy attraction before you even consider the huge variety of rooms.
I've stayed at this hotel multiple times and paid rates ranging from $175 to $500 for both standard rooms and suites. Here's why I keep going back, and my top pick to recommend to friends.
All hotels want to create a "gasp" moment when a guest walks into the lobby.
We've all seen the huge spaces, large hunks of corporate art, and deep crème-colored carpet. We've seen them so often in fact, that for the experienced traveler, they just don't do the trick anymore.
The Chicago Athletic Association, however, from Hyatt's Unbound Collection, is the rare hotel that not only creates a sense of wonder when you first enter, but manages to deliver it every single time you come back.
The hotel is a top-to-bottom rehab of the classic Chicago Athletic Association building, built in the year of the World's Columbian Exposition (1893) in epic gothic style. If you are an architecture fan (likely, as many who come to Chicago are), staying here provides a rare occasion to stay within an icon.
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A flawless 2015 renovation preserved all of the original character but chased away the dust. The rooms, far from standard rectangular boxes, are each wildly unique, paying homage to the hotel's athletic club roots, but in a way that feels sincere.
However, it's the on-site venues that make this hotel my favorite. From a postcard-perfect rooftop bar overlooking Millennium Park, to a tiny hidden cocktail lounge serving vintage spirits, this hotel does not take its amenities for granted.
I've visited on a variety of times and dates, and have paid both full price and discounted media rates. Prices tend to be lowest when I've booked just a few days out, as low as $135 for a last-minute King, or as high as $1,000 for an extraordinary suite.
Typically, expect to pay around $250 a night, with prices a bit higher during the summer tourist rush, and lower in winter. But keep an eye out for suites, which are sometimes difficult to fill. I've had surprising success booking a suite that normally sells for $1,200 a night for just $500.
In downtown Chicago, that's an incredible bargain.
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Walking into the lobby of the Chicago Athletic Association is like walking into a scene straight out of Harry Potter, minus the children and wand-waving.
The original 1893 lobby is breathtaking, with hand-carved details and beautiful wood everywhere. Huge stone fireplaces are tucked into corners, and old Chicago artifacts hide in plain sight.
Best of all, the lobby serves as one of the property's many bars, so you can hang out and have an excellent cocktail.
I've found the staff at CAA to be professional and eager to assist, but occasionally things get muddled at check-in. If you arrive early, don't expect to be able to get into your room, as there are often communications difficulties between housekeeping staff and the front desk.
The standard guest rooms at CAA are small but well-appointed, with an athletic theme meant to match the hotel's history. But not to worry, by athletic theme, I don't mean sweaty gym socks and low-calorie snacks; but rather, soft leather pommel horses at the end of the beds, bathrobes that look made for boxers, and a subtle masculine vibe that pervades the decor.
This is a hotel that feels high-end without smacking you over the head with "luxury" trimmings, and even small rooms feel carefully thought out and worth the price. Rooms are still relatively new, so nothing has every seemed overly worn.
The standard King Room I've stayed in most often was exceptionally cozy — and no, that doesn't mean tiny. I was worried upon first glance that the old-fashioned brass bed frame, meant to match the theme, would be horribly squeaky and uncomfortable, but I've always slept well.
However, if you're committed to having a view, you'll have to upgrade, as nearly all standard rooms have interior or light well views, and natural light can be lacking.
Rooms are quiet unless you're on the third floor (closest to street level), or the floor right below the rooftop bar. But even in these locations, sleep was never difficult for me.
With more than a dozen room types, including many different suites, it's possible to stay here multiple times and always have a different experience.
A two-bed junior suite (which I've gotten for as little as $300 a night) has a full living room, entry foyer, huge bathroom, and two large beds.
If you're looking for luxury (and willing to pay for it), the Founders Suites are each unique, made from the original club bedrooms. They've got multiple levels, and feel like apartments with windows that open onto the park, fireplaces, and original tile floors.
Bathrooms are a mixed bag, though the products (custom-created by C.O. Bigelow) are delicious.
While the bathrooms themselves are beautifully-tiled, some have walk-in showers that, while comfortable, are not perfectly designed and flood the room.
During one recent stay with a large group of friends, by the third shower, the floors were noticeably wet. Upgraded rooms with bathtubs help solve this problem and are, of course, also quite relaxing.
There can be an unfortunate lack of storage in rooms without built-in closets or large wardrobes. I've never viewed it as a deal-breaker, but if you are a traveler with a large haul or on an extended stay, you might feel frustrated.
I, like many Chicago locals, would put Chicago Athletic Association's on-site dining and drinking up against any other leading venue in Chicago.
The lobby bar is the perfect place for a cocktail and a book, while the busy Game Room bar (which serves a full menu) has vintage pool tables, shuffleboard, and a full indoor sand bocce court.
Cindy's, the expansive hotel rooftop, is always jammed, but hotel guests get a cut-the-line pass. Pro-tip, go in colder weather. It's open year-round with large fireplaces outside, and servers will bring blankets and hot drinks for an awesome winter moment.
The main restaurant is the Cherry Circle Room, one of my favorite spots in Chicago. It's a restored version of the original club dining room and feels like you're having an epic dinner in a 1930s movie. A huge bar winds around the room, and the cocktails, designed by famed Chicago bartender Paul McGee, are pitch-perfect.
For something more casual, there's also Shake Shack in the lobby, and they've partnered with the hotel to offer room service.
For a really special experience, ask for tickets to the Milk Room, an eight-seat bar in a hidden nook off the lobby. This is one of the most over-the-top cocktail experiences in the world, as the single bartender crafts drinks made with impossible to get spirits — think pre-embargo Cuban rum, bourbon from the 1950s and liqueurs from the 1930s, all mixed into wonderfully balanced cocktails. You'll pay for it (cocktails run as much as $50) but the experience, along with the time with the engaging and knowledgeable bartenders, is worth the price.
Surprisingly for its identity as an athletic club, Chicago Athletic Association does not have an on-site spa or a particularly impressive fitness facility. But the location across from Millennium Park in the heart of the loop cannot be beaten.
Speaking of what's nearby, the Magnificent Mile is an easy walk to the north, and the museum campus, a quick walk to the south.
And as previously mentioned, Millennium Park is across the street. The El train is steps from the hotel entrance, and the brand new Riverwalk is only about five blocks out, which is a fantastic place to spend a nice day.
The only negative feedback matches my experience, which is that check-in can sometimes be slightly delayed, and hotel staff is occasionally a bit under-trained, in addition to rooms lacking amenities such as dressers of coffee makers.
Otherwise, guests similarly praised the eclectic atmosphere, wonderful food and drink, and excellent location.
Who stays here: Tourists, couples, business travelers and locals looking for a great staycation that's different from standard hotel offerings.
We like: The vintage charm found throughout the property that never compromises quality.
We love (don't miss this feature!): The incredible variety of on-site drinking venues; you could not go to any other Chicago bar during your entire trip and come out ahead.
We think you should know: The hotel charges a $25 per night "Founders Fee," but unlike many other resort fees, this actually gets you useful stuff, like skip the line passes to the Art Institute, discounts at cultural institutions, bike borrowing, and the chance to use the historic, restored basketball court.
We'd do this differently next time: Inexplicably for a hotel with such great dining, their in-room dining (and especially in-room drinking) is mediocre. That's because the restaurant group running their great spots doesn't operate in-room dining. Skip it; order a cocktail or two in the lobby and bring it upstairs with you.
If you're looking for a charming, quirky, and relaxing spot that's dripping in Chicago architecture and history, at a comparable price to other well-appointed Chicago hotels, you should strongly consider the Chicago Athletic Association.
It's perfectly located to explore downtown but is also great for a quiet moment in front of the fire with a martini. I would know, it's why I keep going back.
