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Domaine de Fontenille in Provence, France is a chateau-turned-luxury hotel with an onsite winery and Michelin-starred restaurant.
Rates typically exceed $250 per night in high season, but visiting at other times avoids crowds and yields competitive deals. I visited in winter 2019 for two nights and paid $170 a night.
If you've ever dreamed of sipping wine in the French countryside at a palatial estate, Domaine de Fontenille offers an experiential, romantic stay that feels straight out of a fairy tale.
There are a few things I especially love when traveling: the delight of discovering a world wholly unlike my own, a pampering hotel experience, exceptional food, and crisp fresh air (context: I live in New York City).
I found all four at Domaine de Fontenille in the Luberon region of Provence, France. The chateau and winery with a Michelin-starred restaurant is located in the medieval village of Lauris. I had high expectations, envisioning an idyllic start to each day not unlike the opening sequence of "Beauty and the Beast."
Domaine de Fontenille typically starts at about $250 in high season. I visited midweek in winter with my fiance as part of a larger holiday in Nice. We paid $170 a night, which felt like a bargain for how upscale the hotel seemed.
Popular with tourists making their way through Provence as they sip wine and dip fresh bread into olive oil, Domaine de Fontenille is the kind of place you imagine you'd live if you were a baron or baroness retreating to your summer country estate.
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Keep reading this hotel review to see why I was so impressed by Domaine de Fontenille.
As we entered Lauris I mentally noted every boulangerie I planned to visit, but just as quickly as we entered, we were out and back in the country again.
The hotel, it turned out, was not in the town center but a 5- to 10-minute drive away. Flanked by a large vineyard, perfectly coiffed gardens, and a serene fountain, the estate is magnificent even before taking in the slate blue shutters, egg cream concrete walls, and delicate terraces. Forget "Beauty and the Beast," was this the "Sound of Music?"
There are only 19 rooms and suites, mostly in the main house, and a few in surrounding quarters. Rooms range from standard to larger suites and duplex apartments. The hotel felt on the emptier side during our stay, though even fully booked I imagine the mood would remain quite intimate.
Whenever I travel I always ask for a quiet room ahead of time. I'm a painfully light sleeper and loathe hearing neighbors through the walls, or walking above. After all, I have that at home in New York.
So I always feel a pang of anxiety as I unlock my room. Fortunately, that evaporated at check-in when reception staff kindly noted my request. I booked a Superior Room, which is Domaine's 'basic' offering. We were given a room in an adjacent building. With no one above or next door, it felt like a posh private villa.
The room was spacious by European standards with an incredibly comfortable king-size bed. I loved the sleek bathroom with claw foot tub, walk-in shower, and double sinks, all equipped with Ren Clean Skincare products (which most definitely made it into my suitcase). The toilet, somewhat oddly, was in a separate area on the opposite end of the hotel room. The bathroom was so impressive that I took a bath, which I haven't done in years. It was lovely and afterward, I slept like a baby.
While window shutters make the chateau positively French, they're also nearly impossible to close. We missed turndown service (a highlight I love; it came with chic cookies here) one night and had to call the front desk for help. Our egos were just slightly bruised.
We dined onsite both nights as the hotel houses two renowned restaurants. I made a reservation for Chef Jérome Faure's Michelin-starred Le Champ des Lunes, which gets booked up by both visitors and locals (you can make a reservation here, through Trip Advisor). We also ate at his less formal bistro, La Cuisine d'Amélie. Both were fantastic. The bistro was like walking into a French home and tucking into homemade fare, while the lauded Le Champ des Lunes offered the quintessential tasting menu experience. I loved both, but gave a slight edge to the bistro for feeling a bit more relaxed, while still refined.
A library bar and sitting area are both downstairs near the bistro. They serve Domaine's wines and other libations, which may also be enjoyed on the adjacent expansive terrace.
While the hotel touts spa services, it's actually one small room where local masseurs provide services when requested by guests. As such, bookings can be limited. I indulged in a 60-minute massage, and whether it was the result of the excellent treatment, or my jet lag, I blissfully dozed off. There's also a Hammam spa, but it's awkward to use if someone is getting a treatment at the same time as it adjoins their room. You almost have to interrupt someone's spa service to gain access. I skipped it.
The pool was closed, though I imagine it's quite beautiful in the summer.
Time must be devoted to Domaine's own winery. We missed the daily tour but joined a complimentary wine tasting of red, white, and rose wines, and bought a bottle to take home.
Not a whole lot. The town of Lauris is a short drive, but the main area is just one street with only a handful of stores and cafes. The bustling city of Aix-en-Provence is about a half-hour drive. The nearest airport is Marseille Provence Airport, a 50-minute drive, or Nice International Airport, approximately two hours away. Parking is free for hotel guests.
Domaine de Fontenille reviews online are nearly impeccable for the grounds and rooms with a 4.5 out of 5 on Trip Advisor, and 9.1 on Booking. Some previous guests experienced poor customer service or lamented limited dining. Both restaurants have small menus and there aren't other options nearby. Most major villages are, at least, 20 to 30 minutes away by car. Finally, as in any foreign country, be prepared that some staff may not speak English, but most will.
Who stays here: European and American couples and tourists, some families with older children.
We like: The private, quiet, high-end guest room.
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We love (don't miss this feature!): The entire estate - go to both restaurants, the winery, and savor the lush gardens.
We think you should know: There's nothing within walking distance of the hotel, and you really can't visit without a car. While there's plenty onsite to enjoy, you shouldn't miss seeing neighboring towns and villages. Make Domaine de Fontenille your base and allot time to both stick around and explore Provence.
We'd do this differently next time: I adored this hotel so much, I would gladly pay extra (or save credit card travel points for it) to visit in warmer weather to take advantage of the pool and grounds.
Domaine de Fontenille is a fantastic option to experience the quaint French countryside at a small, upscale hotel with excellent food and wine. It's not for strict urbanites or those who prefer a sprawling resort with scheduled activities, or formal spa. It's great off-season for lower prices and fewer crowds. Pair with a stay in neighboring cities like Aix-en-Provence or Nice for a well-rounded stay in the south of France.
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