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- Dermalogica has launched an exfoliator that uses Indian bamboo and lactic acid to remove dry, dead skin all over your body.
- The paste has a fine, sand-like texture that feels soothing against the skin. Bonus: it won't leave your shower coated in grime.
- I sent the product to two dermatologists to test, and both loved that it wasn't drying and didn't cause any post-wash redness or irritation.
About the same time I started working out at the gym again, I noticed small, white bumps popping up on my chest and shoulders.
Guessing correctly that trapped sweat in my sports bra had something to do with it, I went to Dr. Joshua Zeichner, MD, Director of Cosmetic and Clinical Research in the Department of Dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital, who diagnosed me with milia, a condition where skin flakes become wedged under the skin's surface or when keratin proteins build up and have no way of escaping, forming little white cysts. They're often found on the face around the eyelids and cheeks, and as I can attest, they can be really stubborn to remove.
"Unlike whiteheads, milia have no connection to the surface of the skin, so an opening must be created to express the contents," says Dr. Ziechner, who had to use a lancing tool to eliminate the larger milia on my shoulders. Afterward, he suggested I find a good body exfoliator.
Body exfoliators typically contain two types of exfoliants — manual or physical, made up of gritty ingredients like oatmeal and sugars to removed dead cells; and chemical exfoliators, like lactic and glycolic acids, that dissolve the connections between cells so they shed more easily. "For all my patients, I typically recommend a product with both, then suggest exfoliating once a week, and if their skin can tolerate it, up to three times per week," says Dr. Zeichner. "With milia, exfoliating can prevent dead cells and keratin from building up and becoming trapped in the skin."
My goal was to find an exfoliator that was both effective at removing dead skin cells but not overly abrasive. "Too harsh, and the result could be a breakdown in the skin barrier, resulting in dry, irritated, and cracked skin," says Dr. Alexis Young, MD, Assistant Clinical Professor of Dermatology in the Department of Dermatology at Columbia University Medical Center, who stresses the importance of following up with a hydrating moisturizer to protect the skin.
So, I searched … and I conquered.
What initially got me hooked on Dermalogica's Thermafoliant Body Scrub was its texture; it's like rubbing a fine, soft sand onto your skin that quickly morphs into a smooth paste once wet in the shower. After two weeks of using it three times per week, my milia was slowly disappearing and the exfoliator left my skin feeling super smooth.
Wanting an expert opinion, I ran Dermalogica's body scrub by two dermatologists, asking each to weigh in on the ingredients.
Both agreed that this product includes a nice blend of exfoliators, moisturizers, and anti-aging ingredients. "Indian bamboo is an ultra-gentle manual exfoliator, while lactic acid provides a chemical exfoliation and acts like a humectant to hydrate the skin," says Dr. Zeichner. "Papain is a natural enzyme found in papaya which also provides chemical exfoliating benefits. Antioxidants like licorice, white tea, coffeeberry and chamomile perform like fire extinguishers, putting out free radical inflammation, which can age the skin. But in order to be effective, they must penetrate the skin, which means leaving them on in the shower for at least a minute." Natural oils like tea tree and grapefruit contain fatty acids that act as emollients, adds Dr. Young.
The fact that the product is vegan and gluten-free didn't sway the derms one way or the other. "The only situation in which gluten-free
After testing, the derms reported that they found this to be an ideal winter exfoliator. "I was actually very impressed," says Dr. Young. "The exfoliating ingredients were very delicate but definitely effective in promoting smooth, shiny skin. My skin didn't feel at all irritated and I tested the product in January, the coldest, driest month of the year, and the ultimate test of how harsh a product can be." Agrees Dr. Zeichner, "This exfoliator effectively brightened my skin without causing any redness or post-wash dryness. And I love that it comes in gray gender-neutral packaging to make the product inviting to everyone."
Cons to consider
It's a bit of a luxury at $44, but a little goes a long way. Besides the price, the other major consideration is that it's designed for the body only. I asked Dr. Young if it was safe to use on the face, and she said the tea tree and grapefruit oils could clog pores, as oil is comedogenic. Additionally, the levels of lactic acid and enzymes in this product might be too abrasive for facial skin. Lastly, I wish it was available in a larger size — the six-ounce tube empties pretty quickly when you've got more than one person reaching for it in the shower.
Bottom line
If you've been searching for a body exfoliator that's gentle on the skin, chock-full of moisturizing ingredients, and won't leave residue all over your shower, this is it. The price is lofty, but worth it for the results.
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