Supergoop's cult-favorite sunscreen goes on completely clear and doesn't mess up your makeup — here's my review, plus a dermatologist's take on the ingredients

• I tried Supergoop!'s Unseen Sunscreen ($34), a cult-favorite from the crossover beauty and skincare brand.
• In person, the Unseen Sunscreen makes good on its best claims: being invisible on the various skin tones of our testers, and sitting well under foundation. It feels similar to a silky primer.
• I also asked a dermatologist, Dr. Dendy Engelman, to decode the ingredients, efficacy, and any concerns or highlights of the Unseen Sunscreen formula.
• While effective, Unseen Sunscreen is a chemical formula, and you may be drawn to mineral-based formulas that don't get absorbed into the skin. For that, Dr. Engelman recommends the brand's Sunnyscreen 100% Mineral offerings.

I used to think all sunscreens were pretty much the same.

I am what people politely call "fair-skinned" (see also: Dracula-pale) and have been wearing SPF for as long as I can remember. My childhood spring breaks are bookended by memories of "Mara's shade time" (non-negotiable hours of contemplative solitude under a tent of beach towels) and wearing oversized T-shirts into the pool to play with my olive-skinned cousins like a lost parachuter they hoped they could keep.

Recently, though, I tried the Supergoop! sunscreen that's been relatively successful in the marketing task of turning SPF into an exciting aspect of the beauty routine.

Most of us know that sunscreen is the boilerplate recommendation of dermatologists for skincare. Dr. Dendy Engelman, a nationally acclaimed dermatological surgeon and renowned dermatologist, told Business Insider that incidental sun exposure for only 10-15 minutes a day adds up over time and can cause significant sun damage and accelerated photoaging.

But, few feel enthusiastic about slathering it on every day. Supergoop!, however, has a sunscreen line that has genuinely enthused people, and which sees frequent mentions by leading beauty publications like Allure. Beyond timing and marketing, the company has achieved its status thanks to the unfussiness of its formulas and its compatibility with makeup.

Though Supergoop! was initially best-known for its sunscreen oil ($38) —a non-greasy, lightweight, and ultra-hydrating sunscreen — its most noteworthy product might be their Unseen Sunscreen ($34).

Supergoop!'s Unseen Sunscreen is an SPF 40 sunscreen that's described as "totally invisible, weightless, scentless, [and] makeup-gripping." It's antioxidant-rich, oil-free, and leaves skin with a velvety matte finish. The ingredient list includes names like red algae to protect against the blue light emitted from devices, frankincense that helps reinforce and soothe the skin, and a complex derived from meadowfoam seeds to hydrate.

In everyday application, people love that it feels abnormally weightless, works on all skin tones, and acts like a silky, mattifying primer for makeup-wearers.

Below, you'll find my own experience of what Unseen Sunscreen is like to use, along with a Q&A with Dr. Engelman about the formula.

How Supergoop! Unseen Sunscreen stacks up as a safe and effective sunscreen, according to a dermatologist:

I asked Dr. Engelman to help decode the Supergoop! Unseen Sunscreen ingredient list and its efficacy.

Is SPF 40 effective? "The American Academy of Dermatology recommends an SPF 30 or higher." Dr. Engelman explains. "[But,] sunscreens often test at a lower SPF than listed on the product, which could mean that a 40 SPF could only convey an SPF of 20. As a Mohs micrographic surgeon who specializes in skin cancer, I recommend my patients always use a minimum SPF of 30 or higher in addition to reapplying every two hours or after excessive swimming or sweating — and practicing other sun safety measures like avoiding direct sunlight between the hours of 10 am and 4 pm, seeking shade, wearing wide-brimmed hats, wearing sunglasses, etc."

Are the ingredients listed in Unseen Sunscreen effective? Do any stand out? "Yes, all these active ingredients make this a chemical sunscreen. There are two types of sunscreens: mineral/physical and chemical. Mineral sunscreens sit on the top of the skin and deflect/scatter damaging UV rays away from the skin. The active ingredients in this type are titanium dioxide and/or zinc oxide. Chemical sunscreens work by absorbing UV rays, converting them into heat, and then releasing. This is why a sunscreen [like Unseen] can be 'invisible' or 'unseen' — because it gets absorbed into the skin."

How much do ingredients like meadowfoam seed and frankincense matter here? "The meadowfoam seed oil has hydrating benefits which will help to support the skin barrier throughout the day. [But] there are not substantial studies to support the skincare benefits of frankincense. Many of my patients who like more natural based products like frankincense oil, but major benefits have not been substantiated in the dermatologic literature (to date)."

How much do blue light protecting ingredients matter in sunscreen? Though the jury is still out on the impact of blue light on the skin, protectants are probably a good thing to include. "We want to include blue-light protection in our skincare products." Dr. Engelman said. "We don't know the full extent of harm blue light can have on our skin, as research is ongoing. We do know that blue light is dangerous to eye health. So far we know that blue light behaves like free radicals in the skin. The ultraviolet rays emitted from blue light breaks down collagen. In addition, the prolonged exposure to heat increases melanin production, increasing the chances of dark spots and uneven texture."

Should those with acne-prone skin be wary of this formula? Will it potentially cause breakouts? "Anecdotally, most any topical product can cause breakouts. That said, specific ingredients in this formulation may not be optimal for those with acne-prone skin, such as dimethicone, tocopherol (vitamin E), and Bbutyrospermum Parkin (Shea butter)." In the past, Dr. Engelman has also recommended acne-prone shoppers try mineral sunscreens first, before a chemical formula.

Are there other Supergoop! formulas you personally recommend over Unseen, or which may be better for certain skin types or concerns? "I love the Sunnyscreen 100% Mineral offerings that they have. I tend to be partial to mineral-based formulations."

What ingredients should people avoid in sunscreens? According to Dr. Engelman, mineral-based sunscreens may be safer because studies show some of the ingredients are being absorbed into the bloodstream. "A new study from the Journal of the American Medical Association re-affirms there is a potential cause for concern for a chemical sunscreen, given that there is the absorption of some of the ingredients found in the bloodstream. This is not a new finding since we have known for years that chemical sunscreens are effective by being absorbed," Dr. Engelman explained.

"Of note, many ingredients that we place on the skin end up in the bloodstream (ex: CBD oil, nicotine patches). However, the FDA is now calling for further testing to determine the potential effects of these absorbed chemicals to see if there is a need for increased safety measures. The great news is that if these findings are of concern, consumers can use physical (mineral) sunscreens, which work by sitting on top of the skin and are never absorbed into the bloodstream. I would recommend the Zincscreen 100% Mineral Lotion from Supergoop! ($42).

What Supergoop! Unseen Sunscreen is like in person:

In practice, Unseen holds up to its basic claims on invisibility. It felt like a luxe, smoothing primer on my skin — much closer to my Benefit POREfessional Primer ($32) than any sunscreen I've worn. When I used it under makeup, it didn't create a thick, pore-clogging barrier — and it managed somehow not to mix and disappear into my CC cream.

Perhaps most impressive, though, is that the Unseen Sunscreen remained universally invisible on the various skin tones of each of our testers — no chalky white residue that sits on top of the skin.

But, as Dr. Engelman mentioned, the aspects that allow Unseen Sunscreen to truly be invisible (being chemically based and thereby able to sink into the skin) are the same aspects that may give you pause before buying it. If you'd rather invest your money into a mineral-based formula, you'll likely have to deal with a white cast (some like Zincscreen 100% Mineral Lotion from Supergoop! have a universal tint that's meant to counter that) but you won't have to worry about the potential downsides of a chemical formula.

The bottom line

All in all, the hype around Unseen Sunscreen is well-earned for its compatibility with makeup and the unfussy way it interacts with the skin. If you're looking for a facial sunscreen that feels lightweight, non-greasy, grips makeup, and looks somewhat invisible on a wide range of skin tones, it's a good option to consider. But, if you're concerned about chemical ingredients potentially being absorbed into your bloodstream or clogging pores, you may want to look into a mineral-based formula, like the Sunnyscreen 100% Mineral offerings that Dr. Engelman says she loves. I haven't yet tried Supergoop!'s mineral formulas, but I'd also recommend Beautycounter's Countersun sunscreen.