I hate to say it, but Sunday Riley's $85 Good Genes serum is absolutely worth the cost — it helped clear up my skin within weeks

• Good Genes by Sunday Riley gives the illusion of having naturally clear, glowing skin for the cool price of $85 (available at Sephora, Amazon, and Dermstore) for a single ounce.
• The secret ingredient is lactic acid, a powerful exfoliant that can make skin smooth, bright, and even.
• Despite having heard rave reviews about Good Genes for years, it was still a shock to see how quickly my skin began to improve, immediately cementing its spot in my routine.
• Those with sensitive skin may have adverse reactions to such a high percentage of lactic acid, but it can be used alternatively as a mask.

It is with deep regret that I must inform you that Sunday Riley's cult-favorite skincare product, Good Genes, is worth every penny. It's always difficult to find out that an expensive product is truly as effective as it's purported to be, but once you try this nightly lactic acid treatment, you won't want to turn back. For those on the quest for smooth, clear skin, Good Genes is absolutely worth it.

About Sunday Riley

Sunday Riley's mission is simple: to develop high-quality, science-based beauty products that are made with potent active ingredients and juxtaposed with nourishing botanicals. The brand is an industry advocate for sustainability, and its B-Corp certification is pending. It's also PETA- and Leaping Bunny certified, as most of its formulas are vegan with the exception of a few products that include honey or beeswax.

What makes Good Genes work so well?

Purified lactic acid is a strong exfoliant that quickly promotes cell turnover and clarifies skin, ridding it of dull skin cells that clog pores. The result is fresh baby skin the likes of which you haven't seen in a very long time.

Licorice visibly reduces the look of dark spots and discoloration or melasma, resulting in even-toned, bright skin; lemongrass oil acts as a refreshing astringent and gives it a distinct smell; and prickly pear extract works to soothe and nourish skin.

I spoke to Dr. Y. Claire Chang of Union Square Laser Dermatology about the benefits of lactic acid, and she helped make sense of why this specific alpha-hydroxy acid has multiple benefits for skin. She said that "lactic acid, like other AHAs, dissolves the bonds between the top layer of skin cells, helping to exfoliate the dead skin cells. It also has the added benefit of adding moisture into the skin to keep it hydrated and plump." She also explained that the reason why it causes less irritation and sensitivity than other AHAs like glycolic acid is that "it is a larger molecule and works primarily on the skin surface," so it's able to target aging skin — including dark spots and fine lines — without sinking too deep and causing as much irritation.

My personal experience using Good Genes

I prefer to use Good Genes in the evening as part of my nighttime routine. That said, it is safe to use during the day if one prefers. Regardless of when you use it, it's absolutely imperative that you remember to use SPF during the day since the ingredients in Good Genes can increase your sensitivity to UV rays.

Within just a few days of using Good Genes, my skin was clearly improving. It all but eradicated the small face mask- and stress-related breakouts on my cheeks, along with evening out my complexion as a whole. I tend to have redness around my nose and the beginnings of dark spots on my cheekbones, and within a week there was a noticeable improvement. I even received multiple comments on my skin via Zoom, which has to be a testament to the clear improvement. My face is smoother and softer to the touch and is almost at glass-skin levels. There is, unfortunately for my bank account, no turning back.

Considerations for those with sensitive skin:

If you have very sensitive or dry skin, you can use it as a mask as opposed to a leave-on treatment. Simply apply for 15 minutes like you would any mask and then wash it off before doing the rest of your skincare routine. If you're going to use it as a night treatment, you can use it on top of other serums or Sunday Riley's popular Luna Sleeping Night Oil, and before your moisturizer. While one usually layers oil on after a serum and moisturizer, in the case of Luna Oil specifically, you want to use that before Good Genes and moisturizer.

Considerations for those with oily skin:

People with oily or combination skin may not even need to moisturize at all after using Good Genes. I find that I only need to layer on a light moisturizer and I'm good to go, though I've been known to skip it if it's a particularly humid evening.

How Good Genes mixes with other products and what to avoid

I do occasionally use prescription creams and other products with active ingredients and wanted to make sure that there would be no interference or adverse reactions. Dr. Chang cautioned against using other harsh or irritating products, including AHAs and BHAs, in conjunction with Good Genes. "I would be cautious when using lactic acid with retinols, benzoyl peroxide, and other possibly irritating products," she said.

Cons to consider

Despite the fact that the price mysteriously dropped a few months ago, Good Genes remains extremely expensive. It's definitely a luxury skincare product and the price tag reflects that.

More importantly, even though it's incredibly popular, Good Genes is not necessarily for everyone. Dr. Chang explained that anyone with sensitive skin should be very cautious while trying Good Genes, and stressed the importance of spot testing before applying it to your entire face. She mentions that, "if your skin is red, irritated or inflamed, you may want to avoid using lactic acid or other exfoliant-containing products until your skin is healed. Anyone with a known allergy to lactic acid should avoid this product."

Lastly, while this is not about the product itself, it could shape how you view the brand itself.

In the fall of 2019, Sunday Riley settled a complaint with the Federal Trade Commission after having been accused of falsifying reviews on Sephora's website. Based on information from a whistleblower, the FTC claimed that the founder, Ms. Sunday Riley herself, asked staff to leave five-star reviews on products like Good Genes and to "dislike" negative reviews. As part of the settlement, the company agreed to not engage in illegal posting moving forward but did not have to admit to any wrongdoing. This was especially shocking considering Good Genes and the rest of the Sunday Riley lineup have always been top shelf by beauty lovers.

The bottom line

I've been using Good Genes for over three weeks now and am amazed at how quickly it changed the overall look of my skin. It's healthier and smoother than it has been in years, and knowing that I have such a powerful tool in my beauty kit has helped me simplify the rest of my routine as a whole.

With Good Genes doing the heavy lifting, there's no need to pile on an excessive amount of products every morning and night. So while it does have a hefty price tag, it more or less evens out since my skin requires less overall maintenance.