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Drunk Elephant makes the best non-prescription retinol cream I've ever tried — it's really strong, but it helps control my acne and evens out my skin

Jul 3, 2020, 00:19 IST
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Drunk Elephant
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  • Drunk Elephant's A-Passioni Retinol Cream ($74) is a strong non-prescription retinol cream. It's rated the "best overall" formula in our retinol cream buying guide.
  • It has a creamy texture that absorbs quickly, and it worked for me much the way that my other retinoids have worked: reducing hyperpigmentation and acne, and making my pores look smaller and my fine lines less pronounced.
  • A-Passioni has 1% retinol in its formula, which means you're getting a strong version of retinol. I wouldn't recommend it for people who haven't already built up a tolerance.

Drunk Elephant has gained a cult of fans for its straightforward, efficacious skincare. The brand has a tough-but-fair reputation — utilizing the best of what can be mixed up in a lab — and the kind of packaging that you'll probably leave out on the countertop as a pseudo-decoration.

I've been writing about skincare products for years, and Drunk Elephant is one brand I recommend to my friends and family frequently. The products often fetch higher prices than I'm entirely comfortable paying, but they're some of the products I trust most to give me results. In other words, they're pricey but they work well.

Lotions like the Protini Polypeptide Moisturizer ($68) sink in quickly and completely and make my skin feel hydrated and plump but not greasy all day, and the T.L.C. Sukari Babyfacial 25% AHA + 2% BHA Mask ($80) is one of my favorite masks.

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So, I was excited to try its A-Passioni Retinol Cream. Retinol, like sunscreen, is one thing dermatologists most love to recommend. According to celebrity dermatologist Dr. Dendy Engelman, "Retinol, and especially retinoic acid, work to increase cell turnover, build collagen, improve discoloration, hydrate skin and reduce acne by replenishing the body of vitamin A." And, according to board-certified dermatologist Dr. Mohiba Tareen, "Retinol is the only applied topical agent that has been shown to actually stimulate collagen and plump the skin due to the formation of new blood vessels."

The A-Passioni Retinol Cream ($74) has 1% vegan retinol (meaning its formulation process doesn't include animal products) and a cocktail of peptides, vitamins A and F and E, and oils such as marula seed and jojoba oils to help balance the skin. Winter cherry juice reportedly combats the impact of pollution, and xanthophyll works to block blue light.

Drunk Elephant

What it's like to use

The texture is creamy and feels slightly oily when applied, but absorbs quickly. Over a few weeks of usage, I noticed the same effects as my standard retinol: less hyperpigmentation, smaller pores, less acne, a bit of a tighter feel overall, and my fine lines in my forehead seemed less noticeable. In other words, it did for me exactly what it promises to do for everyone. And ingredients like oils and antioxidants did seem to help offset any potential dryness, with the benefit of adding some luminosity to my skin.

Unless your dermatologist prescribes more, the general rule of thumb is to stick to formulas with 1% retinol or less — so this is technically strong, but not too strong. But, according to board-certified dermatologist Dr. Jason Emer, you may want to begin with 0.25% and then slowly increase if you don't have a tolerance for retinol already.

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I use retinol regularly (a prescription tretinoin all over, and Differin for acne), so I didn't notice increased sensitivity from A-Passioni, but those with sensitive skin and/or no tolerance to retinol creams of this strength may experience dryness or irritation. If that's the case, you'll probably want to use less product, apply it less frequently, use a lower strength to begin with, or layer it with moisturizers. Read more here.

Cons to consider

The A-Passioni comes in a metal container similar to prescription retinol creams, which is to keep light and air from meddling with the most important ingredients inside so they remain stable and effective. So, that's good, but it also has some annoying downsides; sometimes, the container oozes more product than you'll need when you twist the cap off. This is fine if you're using the extra product on your neck and decolletage (which is a good idea), but it's worth mentioning since the product is $74 and you may be less thrilled about not being able to ration it as you wish. Plus, if you're new to using retinol, you don't want to unconsciously add excessive amounts of a strong formula simply because it squeezed out of the container already.

The price is also not ideal; You can pick up 1% retinol by The Ordinary for $21 typically. But, I do really like the creamy texture and the mix of vitamins, peptides, and oils that help support retinol and pump a glowy hydration into my skin. If that's worth the extra cost to you, then you'll probably love this formula. Otherwise, I'd say try Retinol 1% in Squalane from The Ordinary.

The bottom line

Ultimately, A-Passioni is a good, strong retinol formula. If the added benefits of antioxidants, peptides, and vitamins are worth paying for in your eyes, then you'll probably really like this formula. But, if you're new to using retinol creams and don't have a tolerance built up, I'd recommend starting with a lower retinol percentage and working your way up. And, if $74 just isn't in your budget right now, I recommend starting with The Ordinary's Retinol 1% in Squalane ($21).

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