I asked a dermatologist to critique my skin-care routine - here's what I learned, plus products she recommends

Evening routine

What I do:

1. First, I free my skin of grime and makeup with Maelove Day Eraser ($19) and warm water or Bioderma Micellar water ($15), either lazily by hand or with cotton pads.
2. I wash my face with Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Pore Perfecting Cleansing Gel ($38) in warm water.
3. Once dry, I apply Dr. Dennis Gross Clinical Grade IPL Dark Spot Correcting Serum ($92) to my face all over.

This is a great start, but you are missing a step. In the evening, it's about removing the day’s grime and gunk off your face. I follow a double-cleansing ritual. (Which it looks like you do, too!). Step one involves removing the day's cream, makeup, and dirt with a nutrient-rich towelette or cotton pad to erase every trace of eye makeup with a liquid remover. Next, draw out sebum and bacteria using a gentle oil cleanser and lukewarm water. Oil eliminates impurities without drying out your skin. I use an oil-based cleanser first like Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Replenishing Cleansing Oil ($36).

Then you move on to a serum. Serums are the workhorse products that deliver actives deep into the skin that target specific concerns like fine lines, hyperpigmentation, and more. My favorites are SkinMedica HA5 Rejuvenating Hydrator ($120) and SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic ($166). I also like Dr. Gross’ products. (Editor's note: There's a much more affordable $30 Maelove serum with has a similar ingredient list to SkinCeuticals that we also recommend.)

Lastly, you need a moisturizer. While you're sleeping, the body's hydration rebalances. Skin is able to recover moisture, while excess water in general in the body is processed for removal. How this works is that skin can lose water while you sleep, and serums and creams can create a permeable seal on top of your skin so that whatever you have underneath it can penetrate. When the body is in a deep, restful sleep, the skin’s metabolism increases and cell turnover escalates, so we want to support that crucial renewal process. I like First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Face Moisturizer ($24) and SkinCeuticals Renew Overnight Cream Dry ($61). Elizabeth Arden and Dr. Brandt also have a great overnight mask.

Morning routine

What I do:

1. If I’m running behind, I just apply Maelove's The One Cream ($28) before heading out the door.
2. If I have time, I wash my face with Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Pore Perfecting Cleansing Gel ($38) in warm water.
3. Once dry, I apply Dr. Dennis Gross' Clinical Grade IPL Dark Spot Correcting Serum ($92) to my face all over.
4. Once the serum absorbs, I apply the Drunk Elephant Protini Lotion ($68) on top.

When it comes to skin care, always start layering the products with the lightest consistency like toner, followed by serums and ampoules. Next are any prescription topical treatments and lotions and, finally, sunscreen. I definitely want to see a sunscreen in your skin-care routine!

Since all you did was sleep after applying your nighttime skin care, cleansing is less important. I like this serum, [but] it does have lactic acid and glycolic acid, which could be exfoliating your skin too much. I like vitamin C serums during the day to help fight free radical damage. Then a moisturizer. I like this Maelove moisturizer — squalene provides intense hydration and I am a big believer of probiotics to keep the skin balanced.

Lastly, sunscreen should be applied daily. Incidental sun exposure for only 10-15 minutes a day adds up over time and can cause significant sun damage and accelerated photoaging. (Editor's note: Neutrogena Ultra Sheer ($8) is a popular and affordable non-greasy option.)

Masking and acne

What I do:

1. I use Differin Gel ($25) with nothing else on top of it at night to clear surface-level acne when necessary.
2. Once a week, I use the Drunk Elephant Babyfacial ($80) to give me a glow.
3. For a bad breakout, I apply the Aztec Clay Mask ($11).

Differin is great, and I highly recommend it. But retinol is drying. Apply a gentle moisturizer [like Maelove's The One Cream] over it; just use one without BHAs (since they'll deactivate each other) and vitamin C (which can be too active for the skin).

I love masks for many reasons, from replenishing hydration to exfoliating the skin. Masks are supercharged because they add concentrated active ingredients back into the skin in a short time frame. Some of my favorites are Derm Institute Antioxidant Gel Masks ($120), iS Clinical Tri-Active Exfoliant ($60) and Elizabeth Arden Probiotic Boost Skin Renewal Biocellulose Mask ($67). (Editor's note: Dr Brandt's popular overnight Hydro Biotic face mask is slightly cheaper at $52.)

Clay does a great job at absorbing excess oils, but if you put it on for too long, you will notice your face becoming really dry. The goal is to absorb excess oil but not absorb so much that your skin is dry and overcompensating by producing extra oil. Therefore the goal should not be to prolong the time the product is on your face but to stick to the recommended time or when you start to feel tightness from the mask, you should plan to rinse it off in two-five minutes.

What I learned

1. I know sunscreen is the golden rule of any skin-care routine, but I've been overlooking it with the usual excuses: I don't spend much time outside, I always wear sunscreen for outdoor trips, and I hate the greasy feeling and the time it takes the absorb. However, Dr. Engelman says only 10-15 minutes a day is enough to add up.

2. While I do use serums, I definitely underestimated their importance. Dr. Engelman calls them the "workhorse products" that deliver actives deep into the skin for specific concerns. Now, I'll make sure not to skip them — and to pay more attention to the serums built to target specific concerns, since they're the ones most capable of addressing them (think: fine lines and hyperpigmentation).

3. I had also heard conflicting advice on whether I could layer moisturizers over my other products — would it counteract what I just put on (and likely paid so much for)? Dr. Engelman says I should be layering a moisturizer over other (lighter) products, especially at night when the body's hydration is rebalancing. The skin can lose water while we sleep, but a serum and a cream at night can create a permeable seal so that whatever you have underneath can penetrate and hydrate. The only thing to avoid is layering BHAs and vitamin C over Differin — my retinol treatment.

4. I'll also be buying an overnight mask. Dr. Engelman explained that while the body is in deep, restful sleep, the skin's metabolism increases — making cell turnover and renewal faster. Overnight masks support this.

5. Lastly, I'm going to be more precise about how long I leave my clay mask on. It's great at absorbing oil, but if it absorbs too much it can force the skin to compensate by becoming more oily itself.

• Cleanser: Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Replenishing Cleansing Oil, $36
• Serum: SkinMedica HA5 Rejuvenating Hydrator, $120
• Serum: SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic, $166 (Editor's note: Check out this $30 Maelove serum that has a similar ingredient list to SkinCeuticals for a more budget-friendly buy.)
• Acne solution: Differin Gel, $25
• Mask: Derm Institute Antioxidant Gel Masks, $120
• Mask: iS Clinical Tri-Active Exfoliant, $60
• Mask: Elizabeth Arden Probiotic Boost Skin Renewal Biocellulose Mask, $67
• Overnight mask: First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Face Moisturizer, $24
• Overnight mask: SkinCeuticals Renew Overnight Cream Dry, $61
• Overnight mask: Dr. Brandt Skincare Hydro Biotic Recovery Sleeping Mask, $52
• Overnight mask: Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Overnight Firming Mask, $88